How Artistic Fabric Mills Is Using TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color Technology
Since TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology first launched in February, denim mills have been experimenting with the new fiber to create new fabrics.
This technology from TENCEL™ still uses wood pulp and low-impact processes associated with modal, but the production differs in how the fibers are dyed. Instead of coloring at the yarn or fabric stage, TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology injects pigment into the liquid modal solution, embedding the hue in the fiber. Because of this difference in coloring technique, the modal fibers require slightly different processing and finishing.
Below, Towonda Vaughns, global design director at Pakistan-based manufacturer Artistic Fabric Mills, details her company’s creations with TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology.
Carved in Blue: Tell us about your TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology development. What constructions did you make?
AFM: We have decided to focus on the drape and softness of the fabric. Under our Feather Blue series, we came up with a couple of options to address both color and texture. We were also successful in making sure the warp is eco with zero water, zero chemical indigo dye fiber for a bright look with subtle fading.
For A4-0501059/AS-582, we kept to a very soft and drape rigid fabric while creating texture with the melange look. We gave it a silky hand for added premium value in the warp.
For specifics:
- Weave: 4/1 RHT
- Shade: DSZ-06
- Family name: Feather Blue
- Shade name: Marble Blue
- Fabric name: Karlie-Ever Indigo Mix
- Composition: 70 percent cotton and 30 percent modal
- Weight: 7 oz
For A4-0501058/AS-584, we came up with a rich, silk blue shade in a midweight for body. Still, with drape and silky hand, we made the yarn character subtle for a refined look.
For specifics:
- Weave: 3/1 RHT
- Shade: DSZ-03
- Family name: Feather Blue
- Shade name: Silkblue
- Fabric name: Gigi-C Ever Indigo
- Romance: Modal indigo project. Drapey, rigid fabric, plain look and open reed with silky hand. The warp uses an eco zero water, zero chemical indigo dye fiber for a bright shade with limited fading.
- Composition: 99 percent modal and 1 percent elastane
- Weight: 10.25 oz
Carved in Blue: Why did you want to use this fiber in your collection?
AFM: We wanted to address the current conversation on softness, comfortability and drape. Another important point was that we felt the need to create this series in a sustainable way with zero water and zero chemical dyeing.
Carved in Blue: What laundry treatments did you develop which are suitable for this fabric?
AFM: The nature of these fabrics do not require such harsh processing, so we kept to minimal washing times and techniques. Basic rinse has been sufficient.
For A4-0501059/AS-582, however, we have added a little bleach to blend it out more and softer as this is a heavier weight.
Carved in Blue: What else do you plan to develop? What do you see as the future for TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology?
AFM: We are experimenting with another bottom weight with elastane for the jog jean silhouette. This item is now in testing. As we are in the mood for more comfortable fabrics in easy silhouettes, there will always be room for TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology as this concept also doesn’t require extensive treatment in washing. Due to the special technology, it will be a challenge for mid-tier brands to adapt to the cost, however. It will be up to the brands to establish how much monetary investment in the product they are capable of doing during these times.