Orta’s Ebru Debbağ on Growing a Global Denim Business
Ebru Debbağ, Orta deputy manager of product development, sales and marketing, has been in the denim industry for 25 years, and, in that time, she has seen a lot of change. When Orta first launched its denim business in the early 80s, the mill produced only 14 oz. rigid fabrics and served only 10 jeanswear brands. Now, rigid fabrics are only about 10 percent of Orta’s business, and the mill caters to 500 different clients globally.
The denim market has a capacity of 7 billion meters, and Orta fabrics cater to the upper tier, which is estimated to be 1.5 billion meters, Debbağ explained. The mill works with retailers, private label brands, designer labels, global manufacturers and sportswear brands who are dominant leaders of each segment. The mill must also continue to update technology for its products and manufacturing processes. Pushing all this innovation is the fact that there are currently 2 billion meters of surplus fabric being produced, so mills must fight for their business.
According to Debbağ, the challenge of this is that the mill must consider the end consumer for each of the mill’s brands. One way Orta has been approaching this is to create mini collections to display each season of fabric, to demonstrate the fit and styling.
Debbağ said, “Creativity is not only a must but it also leads the way we envision our collections. We work with a number of fit design consultants and get their perspective as we map the future of denim.”
The latest styling project Orta assumed was a partnership with The Vintage Showroom on a collection called “Future Hunter Gatherer” inspired by utilitarian and military pieces from the showroom’s archives. Orta reimagined the garments using technical denim fabrics including stretch chambray and TENCEL® blends.
The mill continues to work with TENCEL®, which has been providing an important aspect of Orta’s formula. Debbağ said, “Lenzing has disrupted the way denim markets look at luxury.” She continued, “The denim industry had been cotton and elastomer rich, and TENCEL® provoked a new dimension in creativity.”
Debbağ said that eight years ago, Orta’s West Coast clients were looking for comfort and a soft hand in denim, which is why the mill initially teamed up with Lenzing. The mill also found that using TENCEL® in the weft of the denim improved the fabric’s hydrophilic features, further enhancing comfort.
In terms of fabric innovations, Orta’s big recent development has been bi-stretch, a response to consumers’ new commuting, active lifestyle. Warp stretch denim creates fabrics that have a vintage appearance with a comfort tweak.
Carved in Blue: What is the main thing you love about the denim industry?
Ebru: The industry is a huge network of innovation, design and technical advancements, and it evolves with progress.
Carved in Blue: What advice would you give someone trying to start a career in denim today?
Ebru: Use exponential technologies and be centered on technology and sustainability.
Carved in Blue: What does “Carved in Blue” mean to you?
Ebru: I would say dream in blue…