Mill Memo: North American Mills Discuss Their TENCEL™ Denim Collections

Mills

Apr 20, 2023

Over the years, it has become easier to find denim fabrics containing TENCEL™ Lyocell or Modal as mills scale up their use of these fibers to meet sustainability, design or performance characteristics.

Adding TENCEL™ to denim creates textiles that are soft and comfortable, with a smaller ecological impact. The fibers can also create a variety of looks—from a subtle sheen to matte and slubby.

Carved in Blue connected with mills in the United States and Mexico to discuss how they are using TENCEL™ fibers and what to expect from their upcoming lines. Read on to hear from Cone Denim, Global Denim, Tavex and Twin Dragon.

CONE DENIM

Pierette Scavuzzo, design director

Carved in Blue: Could you briefly describe your latest collections that feature TENCEL™ fibers?

Pierette: TENCEL™ fibers are featured in many of our collections this season.

We have incorporated them into our color story, Dream State, featuring a hemp and REFIBRA™ blend on an undyed ecru fabric called Libra. It’s a unique combination of sustainable fibers that have an excellent balance of softness and rustic texture that is inherent of the hemp fiber. The weight is flexible in that it can work for a variety of silhouettes.

Also, we continue to expand our Nothing Goes to Waste category, where we challenge ourselves as denim producers to reduce the percent of virgin fibers that are utilized. This season we feature 50 percent PIW (post-industrial waste) recycled cotton blended with 17 percent TENCEL™ lyocell in an authentic construction that is GRS certified.

Carved in Blue: When did you first use TENCEL™ in commercial collections? And how has your use of TENCEL™ changed since then?

Pierette: Cone reports using TENCEL™ lyocell for the first time in the 1990s, and it was used primarily in the weft.

Today we use a variety of TENCEL™ branded fibers from TENCEL™, REFIBRA™ and TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology. The innovations have grown in the way we have blended TENCEL™ fibers and the research we have done on how to reach the perfect balance of soft and authentic denim.

Carved in Blue: What top trends do you see for denim in the upcoming Fall/Winter 24-25 season? How can brands and garment manufacturers use your TENCEL™ collections to create designs fitting these trends?

Pierette: We are seeing an increased demand for yarn texture, color and reduction in the use of virgin fibers.

Also, expansion of silhouettes from all brands—from value to premium—has informed the variety of fabric weights and textures we have developed most recently. There is an ask for a new texture in fabric character that ranges from more overt to subtle; we use special fiber blends including TENCEL™ lyocell and TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ to achieve a range of texture and soft hand that appeals to a variety of global brands. Also, with workwear and Western wear coming into the mainstream, TENCEL™ and REFIBRA™ fibers allow for a broken-in hand, which gives the perfect amount of softness while still maintaining the integrity of these classic fabrics.

Our stretch lifestyle capsule, Everyday Fave, incorporates TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology, creating a fade-resist denim called Evermore that has a unique cast that goes beyond the denim category.

GLOBAL DENIM

Anatt Finkler, creative director

Carved in Blue: Could you briefly describe your latest collections that feature TENCEL™ fibers?

Anatt: Our latest collection with TENCEL™ fibers is called Light Ray. We focused on creating a collection that is dyed with special indigo tones that work extremely well with laser, and we enhanced the constructions with TENCEL™ for added softness, excellent touch and comfort on the wearer’s body. We also have qualities in this collection that include Lycra T400 for added performance.

Carved in Blue: When did you first use TENCEL™ in commercial collections? And how has your use of TENCEL™ changed since then?

Anatt: The first time we used TENCEL™ lyocell in a commercial collection was in 2016, introducing our first Love fabric, which we dyed an Aegean blue indigo tone. After that, we saw the market’s reaction to the fiber and increased the use of it. The Love collection grew amazingly in several indigo tones, grey, black and PFD, and new bestselling collections appeared as the serenity. Today many of our customers, mostly in the premium sector, use TENCEL™ lyocell as a staple on their garments due to all the benefits it offers and the look and feel it provides becoming a part of their essence.

Anatt: Two large things I see will prevail no matter the trend and fit we see in fashion will be the use of more responsible materials that align with the brand’s sustainable path and the comfort and softness the consumer is looking for that grew post pandemic. TENCEL™ lyocell checks the mark in both categories, and I think it will make it become a very important fiber to blend in constructions for the upcoming Fall/Winter season.

TAVEX

Arlethe Sanchez, marketing manager

Carved in Blue: Could you briefly describe your latest collections that feature TENCEL™ fibers?

Arlethe: We have created several collections with this amazing fiber, such as: Ultra Soft, Supreme Comfort, Nostalgic Cozy, Eco Stretch and Cotton Less Denim.

Nostalgic Cozy features fabrics with the authentic ‘90s look, without sacrificing the comfort and style that the consumer needs nowadays. Our Nostalgic Cozy fabrics are the perfect combination of modern with retro, to look and feel great. The main sustainable characteristics of this product family are the recycled cotton percentage used plus the TENCEL™ lyocell fiber, finishes where water consumption is reduced in both the fabric manufacturing process and the laundry process, since with low-impact wash techniques you achieve the contrasts needed.

These are eco-friendly fabrics as a result of their TENCEL™ lyocell fiber content instead of conventional cotton, plus greater stretch and recovery that T400 fiber provides. These products offer premium looks and deep indigo colors. The aim is keeping the consumer comfortable in their day-to-day life, making them feel freedom of motion, without worrying about the shape of their garment while they contribute to improve the environment.

Tavex has launched a collection of Cotton Less Denim! It is achieved with the use of TENCEL™ lyocell fiber instead of the traditional cotton blend. Like cotton, TENCEL™ lyocell is made from plant materials, however its manufacturing requires less energy and water than cotton. As a naturally derived fiber, TENCEL™ lyocell is also biodegradable. In addition, Lenzing sources its wood from certified and controlled suppliers to guarantee the sustainable managed plantations.

TENCEL™ lyocell has incredible absorption characteristics, it is 50 percent more absorbent than cotton, so it requires a lot less dye than cotton. Also, it is more breathable and less susceptible to odorous bacteria growth.

Carved in Blue: When did you first use TENCEL™ in commercial collections? And how has your use of TENCEL™ changed since then?

Arlethe: Tavex launched the first fabric with TENCEL™ lyocell in 2012. Dana is its name, and it became very popular in a short period. Designers loved our collections with TENCEL™ lyocell blend: the construction, appearance, stretch, recovery, brightness and above all, its soft hand feel. That cozy sense when you wear the jeans is amazingly comfortable. Brands were looking for more and more comfort every time, and we expanded the use of TENCEL™ lyocell fiber in several weights and from premium to authentic appearances.

Arlethe: Henceforth, the priority and the demand are on sustainable products. Since TENCEL™ lyocell is a valued ally to meet this objective, it has even replaced the use of cotton fiber. This is demonstrated with the entire collections that were created with only TENCEL™ lyocell in the warp. In addition, Tavex is convinced that TENCEL™ lyocell can be incorporated in any kind of market segment, with the certainty that the fabrics will have high performance in laundry to meet the most refined appearances in a dark wash to the use of light wash with abrasion.

TWIN DRAGON

Stephanie Poon, marketing and merchandising

Carved in Blue: Could you briefly describe your latest collections that feature TENCEL™ fibers?

Stephanie: TDMI’s latest collection featuring TENCEL™ fibers is called Decottonize Denim. The concept of this line is to minimize the use of cotton and add TENCEL™ to improve the hand and tear and tensile strength. While cotton still plays a very important role in apparel manufacturing, it’s widely known that it requires a lot of water in the agricultural process. By using TENCEL™ lyocell in this collection, we are able to offer even better sustainable items to our customers.

Carved in Blue: When did you first use TENCEL™ in commercial collections? And how has your use of TENCEL™ changed since then?

Stephanie: We first started using TENCEL™ lyocell around the early 1990s, starting with lightweight shirting fabrics only. Over time, we have learned to apply it to all different categories and weights of denim. The purpose of using TENCEL™ lyocell is not only limited to lightweight products but also heavyweight fabrics, as we discovered using the fiber has helped to improve the integrity of denim.

Stephanie: We have seen an influx of drapey long denim dresses, skirts, cargo, wide-leg pants, and even tailored denim suits. With our re-engineered TENCEL™ products, the fabrics fit both fashion pieces and comfortable workwear styles. We offer items made completely of TENCEL™ lyocell for the ultra-flowy look or combined with other planet-friendly fibers for a more structured aesthetic. They are versatile and work seamlessly with the trends for the upcoming Fall/Winter 24/25 season.