S/S 18 is Equal Parts Fashion and Function
Fashion and function are equals for Spring/Summer 2018—a season that is distinguished by fabrics that can outsmart the environment, be equally soft and strong and still look good after years of wear and tear.
The potential for performance denim with wellness benefits is just at the beginning stage, according to Advance Denim. The Chinese mill is taking cues from the athleisure and outdoor markets, pivoting its focus on developing and integrating brand new innovations from Lenzing, including TENCEL® C and TENCEL® Sun.
Advance Denim teamed up with Lenzing to develop TENCEL® C denim. Chitin is the most abundant polymer in nature after cellulose, and it is its derivative chitosan, a waste product from the shellfish industry that is added to the cellulose solution before the TENCEL® fiber is extruded. Well-known in the cosmetic industry for its ability to alleviate itching, regulate cells and protect the skin, chitosan also boasts an antibacterial effect. Results from Lenzing’s testing show that it promotes the retention of moisture on the surface of the skin thus aiding skin well-being and renewal.
The second innovation, TENCEL® Sun, provides long-term solar UV protection through the integration of permanent mineral pigments. The mill is pitching the performance denim to the active sport and sports lifestyle sectors.
Royo from Spain is preparing for warmer weather with a collection focused on softer, lighter and more fluid fabrics with a classic peachskin finish. The mill is going a step further by using Lenzing Modal® and TENCEL® blends to create high density fabrics, meaning they can achieve the light colors that are on trend for spring without having to worry about the garment becoming transparent. The mill is also using 100 percent TENCEL® for blouses and super light shirts, a trend Royo expects to see for the next couple of seasons.
Bossa is relying on special fibers like Lenzing Modal®, TENCEL® and polyamide blends to soften its advanced technology story. The Turkey-based mill plays with weights and the appearance of weight with featherweight denims and lightweight denim with extra firmness and 4-way stretch. Visually, the fabrics are brought to a new level of fashion with different coatings.
Blends are essential to Azgard-9’s concept, Premium, Performance and Environmental Technology (PPET). The Pakistan-based mill achieves this trifecta of technology through a blend of cotton, dual core fibers, TENCEL®, Lenzing Modal®, and ProModal®. The result is high stretch denim with a lustrous appearance and a softer than silk hand feel that is also moisture absorbent.
Turkish mill Dynamo is also out to prove that denim can look and feel beautiful while being sustainable. The mill is concentrating on innovating TENCEL® and Lenzing Modal® blends with creative and environmentally conscious finishing processes. The mill uses indigo foam dyeing and air-dyeing processes, which helps to conserve water and preserve the planet.
Black Peony from China is blending TENCEL® with CORDURA® to create comfortable and durable denim. The mill is developing a stretch version for S/S 18, targeting 40 percent stretch. The mill is going for even greater stretch (up to 44 percent) with its Lenzing Modal® collection for men. The jeans feature a soft hand feel with masculine character.
For ladies, Black Peony is highlighting 100 percent TENCEL® for women’s tops, with weights spanning 2.75 oz. to 7.5 oz. The shirting features a smooth silk-like surface and adds a delicate drape to the oversized and boxy shapes that are trending in women’s.
Options for women are becoming broader for spring. For bombshell style, Twin Dragon is touting a new range of certified LYCRA® Beauty denim with 31 percent TENCEL®. The denim’s sculpting properties help ensure that jeans fit like a glove, while maintaining the smooth lines and silky hand feel distinctive of the women’s market. It’s a knockout look but with the added benefits of durability and cooling effects.
High stretch denim—in light indigo, brown indigo, green cast and more—is on deck from Tavemex. The Mexican mill is banking on the fabrication for men and women.
The same can’t be said for ultra-stretch. Fernando Lopez Loredo, Tavemex Central and North America research and development manager, said interest in ultra-stretch is waning. Instead, fabrics with character are gaining traction in the women’s category. The mill achieves the look through blends of TENCEL®, cotton, polyester and LYCRA®.
Meanwhile, Bossa is encouraging a new way to perceive sexy: comfortable boyfriend jeans. In the mills’ The Power of Love concept, fit becomes less of a focus. Instead, Bossa tells a relaxed story with warp stretch items for comfort and authentic character. Slubs and crosshatch, as well as light to medium indigo shades feel nostalgic. Expect to see tinted looks with different weft colors.
The mill captures the market for tailored looks with denim that has textured structure. Combed cotton and TENCEL® are delicately blended for this elevated collection fit for fashion staple pieces. The theme is equally as important for men and for women.