Elleti Group’s MODE Makes Denim Archive Accessible

Makers

Aug 15, 2024

The blue jeans we all wear today were shaped by the denim of the past. Honoring the denim makers that came before it, Italy-based Elleti Group established Museum of Denim Elleti Group (MODE), which showcases over 100 garments.

MODE’s archive dates back to the 1850s, with examples such as Levi’s 501 jeans from World War II and the Lee 101 Cowboy, a style that initially debuted in the 1920s. Through MODE, Elleti invites the industry to explore the evolution of denim over more than a century.

Carved in Blue chatted with Daniele Lovato, general manager of Art Lab at Elleti Group, about the creation of MODE and hunting for historic jeans.

Carved in Blue: What led Elleti to found M.O.D.E.?

Daniele: Back in 2016, Elleti Group acquired the oldest Italian laundry specialized in denim, the famous Martelli Lavorazioni Tessili. The following reorganization led us to realize that the two companies had a combined archive that was probably one of the biggest and more interesting in Europe. In that moment, we realized that all the material represented a huge untapped resource for all the denim professionals and denim lovers alike, so we decided to invest in the creation of a dedicated facility that could allow a wider public to benefit from it. This led to the creation of the MODE itself, with its 108 “rare, antique and special” pieces, but also the creation of the Stadium, the facility where over 15,000 pieces of denim from the ’70s to the present days are showcased.

Carved in Blue: Why is it so important for the industry to study denim history?

Daniele: Jeans is a product with a very important heritage that is not only part of its history, but it is a crucial part of its identity. Developing any new denim product without having a clear perception of this heritage will only lead to the creation of another a soulless piece of blue apparel, instead of unleashing the full potential of an authentic denim garment. And we believe in the power of authenticity, especially in today’s challenging market.

Carved in Blue: How did you acquire the pieces in the archive? Any surprising stories of how you came by some of the historic garments?

Daniele: Denim hunting is an adventurous task that combines the necessity for long travels, the eyes of a connoisseur and a fair share of luck. Every garment recovered has its own story, but we find it amazing to think about how far, in time and space, every single one of them has travelled from its original user to our collection.

Carved in Blue: Are there any denim history moments that you’re still looking to add to the collection?

Daniele: Since we’re not historians, we don’t really look for jeans based on a specific time period. We focus our research and our presentation in the museum on garments that “have something to say,” garments that show us the evolution of the denim culture, or society, or that simply tell a story about its owner’s relationship with that specific piece of apparel. Of course, the rarest pieces are the ones of the late 19^th century, and those garments used at the very beginning of the mass diffusion of the jeans are the one we most desperately look for, but not for their age, but for their cultural relevance.

Carved in Blue: Since MODE was established in 2019, how have Elleti Group and/or the industry at large used the collection for inspiration? Can denim designers visit the museum?

Daniele: Soon after the MODE inauguration, the travel restriction of 2020 and 2021 struck, thus limiting the accessibility of our collection to the wider public. Nevertheless, our developers use this archive for inspiration on a daily base, and most of our customers found in there the vintage looks they were searching for for their premium collection.

Now that the travel restrictions are over, developers and design schools from all over Europe are regular visitors of the museum and archive, helping us shape it with their feedback. The first project inspired by the MODE has been a collection aimed at raising awareness about the potential of sustainable technologies; the “green replicant” collection has been developed by copying five selected garments from the 1920s, ’30s and ’40s and translating their look in an industrial made, low environmental impact collection that have been showcased in multiple fairs around Europe.

In terms of accessibility, all denim designers, industry workers, students or denim lovers are always welcome to visit our archive, with the only limitation being the necessity of an early reservation at our address info@elletigroup.net.

MODE Collection Highlights

Lot 201 (below) was sold as a cheaper alternative to the 501 with different fabric (normally blue or all white selvedge) and woven white linen patch label.

A rare brown bib overall, with the two horse label (introduced in 1886) and two back pockets (introduced in 1902).

In 1938, Levi’s launched Lady Levi’s, known as 701, with tailored shape and lighter (8 oz.) denim, the first Western jeans for women. Note the pink selvedge!

Two-pocket early denim jacket, similar to Levi’s type 1; possibly Amoskeag fabric.

Old japanese coat, indigo by indigo, very heavy double cloth construction with discharge print.

Jacket/blouse in duck cloth; same fabric Levi’s used for their first jeans (Amoskeag).

Two long and square back pockets (the early 501s had only one back pocket), 9 oz. denim fabric by Amoskeag

Missing suspender buttons, interesting repair on one leg.

Bib overall from little known workwear brand, note side pockets and absence of rivets; made in Jelt fabric.

Early century jeans from a not well-known brand; styling similarities to the early Wrangler IIMW.

The Men Western jeans, 11 oz. left hand denim, were designed with cowboys in mind. The fifth pocket was raised so the belt would close it when riding!