Tuong Long Eyes Emerging Markets and Capacity Expansion
Vietnam-based mill Tuong Long started as a twill garment producer, but around a decade ago, it turned its attention toward denim. Following the acquisition of Kao Sha (Taiwan) Textile Co. Ltd.’s operations, Tuong Long outfitted the factory to produce denim textiles.
Today, the factory is focused on producing jean fabrics responsibly, using lower impact equipment and dyes and investing in solar energy. The mill also uses TENCEL™ Lyocell and Modal, and it has collaborated with Lenzing on projects that use these wood-based fibers.
Here, Jason Eis, senior director sales and marketing at the mill, discusses the manufacturer’s plans for expanding capacity, recycling and its global customer base.
Carved in Blue: Tuong Long is aiming to reach a capacity of 30 million yards per year. How close are you to achieving this goal, and what will this mean for your business when you reach it?
Jason: Vietnam is now one of the world leaders in denim garment manufacturing, and we needed to grow with the market as well. In 2024, we increased our production capacity to 18 million yards. This marks significant progress towards our goal, supported by investments in additional machinery and workforce expansion. Our aim is to increase this capacity to 30 million yards by 2025.
Reaching this milestone will not only enhance our ability to meet growing customer demand but also solidify our position as a key player in the global textile market. This expansion will allow us to diversify our product offerings, improve lead times and scale our innovations in sustainable fabric production. It reflects our commitment to driving operational excellence while remaining responsive to the needs of our customers and the industry as a whole.
Carved in Blue: Why is growing recycled content so critical for your mill? What are some of the remaining challenges of scaling up recycling, and how do you plan to overcome them?
Jason: Growing recycled content is essential for Tuong Long to meet customer demand for sustainability, protect the environment and reduce waste. Challenges include limited availability of quality materials, higher costs and ensuring consistent fabric quality. We address these through investments in recycling technology, partnerships with suppliers and innovative solutions to integrate recycled content while maintaining high standards.
Carved in Blue: How is Tuong Long protecting human and animal health through your processes, particularly dyeing?
Jason: At Tuong Long, we are committed to protecting both human and animal health by prioritizing safe and sustainable practices. We use Archroma aniline-free indigo, a non-toxic dye that reduces environmental impact while ensuring high-quality color. Additionally, we have and continue to work on reducing our water usage and minimize chemical waste in our dyeing and finishing processes. This approach not only ensures the health of our workers and customers but also supports our goal of maintaining environmentally responsible operations.
Carved in Blue: How are you using TENCEL™ fibers in your denim fabrics?
Jason: We use TENCEL™ fibers in our denim to enhance sustainability, softness and breathability. By blending TENCEL™ with cotton and recycled fibers, we create both shirt-weight fabrics for lighter applications and bottom-weight fabrics for durable jeans, offering a balance of comfort, strength and flexibility. Our bestselling TENCEL™ fabric is a blend with cotton and Lycra with a weight of 12.25 oz.; this gives you the drape and soft hand of a lighter weight fabric with the appearance of an authentic heavy weight denim.
Carved in Blue: You partnered with Lenzing on its 2024 Application Innovation Collection. What was the experience like, and what did you develop?
Jason: Partnering with Lenzing on the 2024 Application Innovation Collection was an exciting and valuable experience. It allowed us to explore innovative solutions in sustainable fabric development. Together, we focused on creating high-quality, eco-friendly fabrics that align with our commitment to sustainability. The collaboration helped us push the boundaries of denim production while offering new options for customers seeking more sustainable alternatives.
Carved in Blue: Looking ahead, what is Tuong Long’s next collaboration in the works with Lenzing?
Jason: We’re excited to continue our partnership with Lenzing, focusing on further innovations in sustainable fabric production. Our next collaboration will build on our shared commitment to developing eco-friendly solutions that meet the evolving needs of the market. We aim to explore new possibilities in fiber technology and fabric performance, strengthening our position as a leader in sustainable denim.
Carved in Blue: Currently, your major customers are in the U.S., Europe, South Korea, Japan and Vietnam. Do you have any other target markets you’d like to break into or grow?
Jason: Denim garment manufacturing is quickly growing in Vietnam, and we are a key denim fabric supplier for a majority of the full package vendors. You are correct, we have strong relationships with our existing customers in the U.S., Europe, South Korea, Japan and Vietnam. We are always exploring opportunities to expand into new markets. Last month we attended Kingpins Amsterdam and had great meetings with brands from Spain, Russia and India. Our goal is to grow our presence in emerging markets where there is increasing demand for high-quality, sustainable denim. This expansion aligns with our long-term strategy to diversify and strengthen our global reach.