Mills Update: North American Manufacturers on Trade Tumult and Authentic Denim
In a time of trade volatility, brands are shifting their sourcing strategies to guard against tariffs. Denim manufacturers are soldiering on, leaning on innovation and their internal capabilities to drive business while also keeping a watchful eye on the situation.
Ahead of Kingpins Show Amsterdam in April, Carved in Blue is catching up with denim mills to discuss the sourcing landscape, their latest launches and where denim trends are headed for Fall/Winter 2026. Here, executives from Cone Denim, Global Denim and Twin Dragon Marketing Inc. talk about tariff uncertainty and how comfort is factoring into their fabrics.
CONE DENIM
Steve Maggard, president
Carved in Blue: Tariffs are top of mind right now for the industry. How are trade policies impacting your business—particularly in the U.S.?
Steve: Constantly changing global trade policies and tariffs are complicating an already difficult denim market. The ability to react quickly and offer multiple options to customers will be key. Customers are very uncertain of what to do and how to plan, so they are delaying decisions and even purchases in some cases.
Carved in Blue: What do you expect consumers will be looking for in Fall/Winter 2026? How are you developing denim to meet their expected wants?
Steve: Ethics and traceability are core to many of the brands that we work with, in addition to new business opportunities. We believe consumers will expect fabrics that work with trending silhouettes as well as fabrics that have multiple uses and flexibility. Authentic denim that is soft and comfortable seems to be a mainstay.
Carved in Blue: What collections are you debuting at Kingpins Amsterdam this April? Do any of your textiles incorporate TENCEL™ Lyocell and/or Modal?
Steve: We are excited to debut a new fabric capsule called “The Lofty Edit.” This capsule adds newness that is in demand with many brands and addresses the momentum happening in denim apparel and fashion silhouettes. The Lofty Edit bridges the gap between loungewear, luxury and authentic denim and utilizes TENCEL™ fibers in the process. This capsule delivers versatility for brands to create something truly special that looks and feels distinct.
GLOBAL DENIM
Anatt Finkler, creative director
Carved in Blue: Tariffs are top of mind right now for the industry. How are trade policies impacting your business—particularly in the U.S.?
Anatt: Regarding tariffs, there isn’t much concrete information available at the moment. The situation feels like a game of Russian Roulette. We need to carefully analyze how it unfolds. Right now, everyone is in a wait-and-see mode.
Carved in Blue: What do you expect consumers will be looking for in Fall/Winter 2026? How are you developing denim to meet their expected wants?
Anatt: In a world where trends are no longer definitive and everything is “in,” we can expect to see a mix of styles as consumers continue to experiment and shift between different looks. However, the tendency toward wider fits and softer, more fluid fabrics with a draped feel is becoming increasingly evident.
The rise of Western and Americana influences remains strong, bringing an emphasis on authentic character fabrics with rich textures, including salt-and-pepper and orange-peel effects. Softness and performance are also key factors. While both rigid and stretch denim continue to serve their respective segments, there is a noticeable rise in rigid fabrics and comfort stretch.
We are also seeing a rise of individuality and creativity expression and with that the need to have more interesting construction in fabrics as well.
Carved in Blue: What collections are you debuting at Kingpins Amsterdam this April? Do any of your textiles incorporate TENCEL™ Lyocell and/or Modal?
Anatt: Even though we are not participating in Kingpins Amsterdam this time, our collection features many new developments, with TENCEL™ Lyocell playing a key role. We have expanded our TENCEL™ fibers offering to include both comfort stretch and rigid fabrics that provide softness, authentic character and beautiful drape qualities.
Additionally, we are working on a premium line made with TENCEL™ fibers and high-end weaves—the first of its kind in this hemisphere—designed for a more elevated customer. This exclusive collection will debut soon.
TWIN DRAGON MARKETING INC.
Stephanie Poon, director of marketing & merchandising
Carved in Blue: Tariffs are top of mind right now for the industry. How are trade policies impacting your business—particularly in the U.S.?
Stephanie: The Mexico tariffs are significantly impacting our business, particularly given the scale of our operations in the region. We are seeing an increasing number of customer requests to shift production from Mexico to Asia. Fortunately, with established operations in both hemispheres, we can provide the flexibility to adapt to these changing demands. However, the broader business landscape remains uncertain, presenting ongoing challenges and concerns.
Carved in Blue: What do you expect consumers will be looking for in Fall/Winter 2026? How are you developing denim to meet their expected wants?
Stephanie: We’ve observed a resurgence in stretch fabrics, particularly for skinny and slim fits, which seamlessly align with the equestrian and sophisticated chic aesthetic—perfect for styling with knee-high boots. At the same time, there is a growing demand for soft-spun fabrics that offer a luxurious hand feel and superior comfort. In response to these evolving preferences, our latest developments integrate sustainable fiber blends and re-engineered stretch technology, ensuring enhanced performance, comfort and wearability.
Carved in Blue: What collections are you debuting at Kingpins Amsterdam this April? Do any of your textiles incorporate TENCEL™ Lyocell and/or Modal?
Stephanie: This season, we’re unveiling a curated selection of collections at Kingpins Amsterdam, each designed to push the boundaries of denim innovation.
Leading the lineup is Duo Stretch, a breakthrough in flexibility engineered for superior stretch performance. With the rise of skinny and slim fits, Duo Stretch delivers exceptional tethering and controlled destruction without crimping or scrunching. Unlike conventional stretch fabrics, it ensures superior stability, controlled shrinkage and zero Lycra slippage, making it an ideal choice for a variety of applications.
In addition to performance-driven stretch, we’re elevating texture with innovative denim designs. From boucle and jacquard-inspired fabrics to Lurex-infused denim, specialty coatings and patterned flocking, our latest developments offer fresh, dynamic and statement-making options that redefine traditional denim aesthetics.
Sustainability remains at the core of our collection, with our sustainable blend series featuring thoughtfully crafted mixes of eco-friendly fibers such as TENCEL™ Lyocell, Naia, hemp and linen. These fibers not only reduce environmental impact but also enhance the fabric’s breathability, softness and durability. TENCEL™ fibers and Naia lend a silky-smooth hand feel and excellent moisture management, while hemp and linen add natural strength, texture and lightweight comfort. By blending these fibers, we create versatile, high-performance denim that meets modern consumer expectations for comfort, style and responsible fashion choices.