Blended Family: Mills Rely on Dynamic Combinations of Fibers- A/W 17-18
Each fashion cycle not only brings new trends in wash and cut, but also a wave of enhanced fabrics with better performance, recovery, comfort and stretch capabilities. At the core of these improvements are innovative fibers and blends that create new opportunities for designers and provide added value for the consumer. The next generation of denim is sure to entice and inspire attendees during the upcoming A/W 17-18 show season.
Turkish denim mill Orta is taking a scientific approach to lightweight, summer denim with Synthesis, a category of skin-soothing denim made with TENCEL®, cotton, polyester and elastane blends. Synthesis designs and fabrications hug the body to create a sleek look, yet maintains an authentic denim look with subtle crosshatch.
Lightweight denim is top of mind for Bhaskar Denim as well. The India-based mill has developed a whole new range of lightweight denim, including 100 percent TENCEL® denim and TENCEL® blends with ProModal®, cotton, bamboo and linen. The mill says the new fabrications, colors and finishes were well-received at a recent trade show in Bangladesh.
Pure TENCEL® products products, including 100 percent TENCEL® bottoms in indigo and black, are in the pipeline for Shasha Denim Ltd. The Bangladesh-based mill is also focusing on TENCEL® chambray tops in indigo, gray and black.
The majority of KG Denim’s use of TENCEL® is in shirting weight denim ranging from 4 oz. to 6.5 oz. Fabrics are woven in a number of different weaves, including 2 x 1, 3 x 1 and sateen. The India-based mill, which has used TENCEL® for the past three years, has also developed various colors using indigo dyes in light, medium and dark shades, and also few sulfur colors dark gray and black.
Soorty Product Developer Rehan Azhar says many of mills’ innovations for A/W 2017-2018 are based on “magical fibers” like TENCEL®, Lenzing Modal® and viscose. The Pakistan-based mill is building on its previous developments, including X-Fit with Lenzing Modal®, lightweight rigid shirting with TENCEL® and power stretch with TENCEL®, with new combinations of the fibers.
Royo of Spain aims to offer the complete package with new blends of TENCEL®, wool and cotton, as well as Modal and wool. The cutting-edge fabrics are part of the Spanish mill’s new Mesu Collection, a combination of its Suave and Meyalast lines. The result is a hybrid of extreme softness, precise elasticity and superior recovery with an eco-conscious philosophy.
Spanish mill Unitin is looking to broaden the scope of the denim market with specialty fabrics. The mill is offering a large collection of fabrics using indigo in both the warp and weft in with a variety of compositions, including 100 percent TENCEL®, 50/50 TENCEL® and cotton and linen. Some of the fabrics are offered with a new “double side precision printing” that allows more creativity. Likewise, Kassim Denim of Pakistan is looking to widen the possibilities of denim with new jacquard denim featuring TENCEL® fibers.
For next winter, Spanish mill Textil Santanderina hopes its new line of striped fabrics made with TENCEL® spark creativity among designers. The striped fabrications, available in different looks and effects, are defined by a very authentic vintage touch. The denim’s soft, silky feel contrasts with its rustic appearance.
Twin Dragon—with mills in Mexico and China—is touting an eco-friendly story with the launch of Botanic Denim, a fabrication that fits into the demand for soft, worn-in denim. The fabrication, a blend of TENCEL® and cotton, offers a vintage feel ideal for loose fits from the ’70s and ’90s. When ripped and tattered for styling, the weft threads keep an authentic, weathered look.
In order to reduce water use and reduce chemical pollutants, Twin Dragons is dyeing Lenzing Modal® color fibers in the solvent stage for its Essential Colors range. As a result, the mill says there’s no need for additional dyeing. Essential Colors consists of black, white, gray and royal blue super stretch twills made of Lenzing Modal® color fibers. The fabric provides a smooth and clean fit for styles like skinny jeans and leggings that can be comfortably worn day to night.
As denim weights continue to decrease, Calik sees an opportunity to lower the “ecological weight” of jeans. The Turkish mill is betting on a new generation of fibers—TENCEL®, Lenzing Modal® and viscon—to lead the way starting with the introduction of Ultrasoft. The line of high elasticity, second skin denim offers an enhanced soft hand feel described by the mill as “baby touch.” The exclusive fabric finish softens the fabric while maintaining its performance qualities, including the benefits of Calik’s Elastech technology which supports shrinkage control and prevents bagging.
To meet the demand of stretch denim utilizing TENCEL®, KG Denim has developed fabric using TENCEL® yarn in the warp with core spun lycra in the weft—the result being high-stretch women’s jeans with a supple touch.
Deelux, a new TENCEL®, Lenzing Modal® and Lycra® blend by Calik, keys in to the call for day-to-night indigo looks. Along with comfort, breathability and flexibility, the uniquely soft and drapey fabrication offers a brightness and refined look that speaks to the luxury market.
For a more autumnal appearance, Royo is focusing on TENCEL®, cotton and polyester blends to create denim with a wool appearance. The mill is also working on new finishes in order to make TENCEL® feel more warm and cozy.
While fashion trends for A/W 17-18 have yet to be determined, the foundation is strong with fabrications that work with the designer and for the wearer. Denim mills and manufacturers have set the standard high by experimenting, innovating and producing a new age of denim that give consumers new reason to buy, wear and enjoy.