Blogger’s View: How 23oz. Buys Denim Mindfully
Manchester-based Amanda Barnes is a designer with an eye for the most beautiful parts of denim. At 23oz.indigo, she catalogues denim at every point in its life cycle, from hand-crafted recycled creations to mesmerizing shots of denim mills in production.
Barnes shared her favorite denim design techniques with Carved in Blue and talked about the brands that are inspiring her with sustainable practices.
Carved in Blue: How do you define sustainability?
Amanda: To me sustainability means longevity and well-being in the practices we use, the products we produce, and for the planet, making considerate and transparent actions that don’t cause harm to humans, animals or the earth and that secure and set examples to future generations. Sustainability and ethical practices are always important factors I consider when working on projects within the industry, I always try to push companies to new levels but I also still see disconnects and lack of understanding in these areas.
Hand stitched Sashiko on pre-loved denim vans by 23oz.indigo.
Carved in Blue: What do you consider when purchasing denim?
Amanda: With the many different fibers and techniques available, denim can be produced with less water, no chemicals using natural dyes and organic fibers, meaning in some cases it can be bio-degradable. It is usually made so it is very durable and can be used, reused and recycled. It can be loved and passed on for a new life. When buying, I consider what it is made from as I prefer plant-based, such as cotton, bamboo or hemp, and I consider where it is made and the companies’ views and ethics regarding sustainability. Where possible, I try to buy vintage rather than new to try to reduce the demand to continually produce more garments.
Carved in Blue: Where do you get information about sustainability?
Amanda: I am always looking out for updates and information on sustainability from many sources such as Instagram, industry online publications, trade shows and events.
Handmade organic loom state cotton dyed with indigo using Shibori techniques by 23oz.indigo.
Carved in Blue: Which denim or non-denim brands do you think are doing a good job at balancing sustainability and communication?
Amanda: There are a lot of brands that now seem to be taking sustainability to the next level such as Everlane, Madewell and Reformation. Story MFG’s use of natural dyes and organic clothes is really inspiring and I really admire Bethany Williams, who creates beautiful and sustainable clothes made in the U.K., while highlighting social and environmental issues. Bonum, the leaders in remaking, are always showing how old denim can be reimaged in the most creative and commercial ways.