Ask the Experts: What Key Denim Takeaways From 2018 Should Inform 2019?
A lot happened in the denim industry in 2018 and we’re expecting more exciting things ahead in 2019.
So many great moments happened in the denim space this year—from innovations to sustainable initiatives and new technologies that advance the world’s favorite fabric.
Continuing the conversation, we had to ask: What key takeaways from this year should inform what the denim industry does next year?
Carved in Blue rounded up 12 leaders in the blue world to get their thoughts on this pressing question.
Carved in Blue: What key denim takeaways from 2018 should inform 2019?
“There is something more than eco sustainability. Everybody talks about how much water or energy they save but sustainability means more than eco related topics. The next step is to establish social sustainability and also to optimize the internal processes in a more sustainable way. The efficiency of company activity will become the new topic. How much paper is needed in your daily work process, switch off the office lights when leaving the office or avoid plastic in the canteen. These are just some samples of easy things everybody can try to make our planet a little better.”
—Dirk Lehmann, Sportswear International
“The denim industry is moving rapidly towards a more sustainable supply chain. Every day new proposals and developments always go in the right direction. In particular, what companies are doing to explain and share in detail, often technical, is creating great value. Good examples are the Kingpins Transformers, the Smart Creation Area and Talks at Denim PV or Munich Fabric Start with their Key House. So, this is the takeaway, knowledge properly communicated and shared.”
—Lucia Rosin, Meidea
“I think the Candiani Open Mill Day sets an example for transparency that we can all learn from.”
—Michelle Branch, Markt & Twigs
“The global denim production is showing signs of overcapacity, which may be more perceptible in 2019 with the ongoing investments at some already important manufacturing countries. This combined with the general economic deceleration cloudy indicators may lead to the start of some recession in the denim business. It is a kind of rollercoaster fashion model that we are used to in denim. In any case, we shall not only continue but even step up our efforts in development and innovation at all levels.”
—Miguel Sánchez, Gavilanad
“For me, personally it’s the realization, and conclusion that I should try my hardest to not use cotton going forward and start to practice what I preach. I lecture across many of the top university’s in the U.K., about denim history and design and mentor both BA and MA students who pick denim as their main material for their final collections. I consider it a real honor to have been teaching denim for over a decade now. But every time I lecture about the cotton process and how much water is used, it just does not sit with me anymore because when I show videos about the process, I also go on to mention alternatives such as sustainable fibers like TENCEL™, which is fantastic, and that’s all fine, but then when we move on to other subjects I know that these students will leave and probably still use a lot of cotton in their future collections. And so many new cotton mills are popping up constantly; just recently, I must have shaken hands with about 5 brand new denim mills at a trade show. The one question I asked each of them was ‘why not start using hemp spinning and become leaders in that, why build another cotton mill?’ They each answered with a smile and laughed it off…they just don’t seem to see any value in investing in an infrastructure like an alternative to cotton, and it’s driven by pure greed, there is no realization or care about the impact their actions will have on the planet and it’s heartbreaking to see. Our consultancy company is in a unique position where we have access to some of the world leaders in the denim business, some of which are young owners’ second or third generation mills branching out. I believe that even if just one of them started to move away from cotton, began investing in growing and processing other sustainable fibers, then looked into engineering new spinning machines then in 5-10 years down the line we could genuinely make a difference, because for me the future is not cotton. Next year I hope to see more representation and diversity at trade shows from Denim Mills and factories producing high quality, sustainable products and projects. I would also like to see and read more about women in denim making waves in diverse cultures.”
—Mohsin Sajid, Endrime
“There were more conversations about the industry and the things we can all do better and the areas that need more work this year. We launched Kingpins Transformers more than five years ago to spotlight members of the denim community who are committed to creating, implementing and sharing the changes that need to happen in the jeans industry to make it more environmentally viable, socially responsible and financially sound. For years our event has been an outlier calling for change and responsibility within the denim industry—and now we have been joined by more conferences and seminar series with similar messages. The takeaway for me is that our message has struck a chord because our industry must change—and it is important to keep having these conversations to engage the denim community and arm it with the tools to make the necessary changes.”
—Vivian Wang, Kingpins
“1. Waterless is possible. We have to work towards “water-free.
- There are new job positions that are to be created (Digital Wash Managers, Laser Designer, Eco-Laundry Directors), and therefore, there’s a training, and capacitation to be conducted by the transformation leaders
- A feasible operational schedule has to be accurately planned, resources allocated, and the transformation path precisely engineered.
- We have to start asap, and go at the right pace. Let’s walk, not run.”
—Alex Penades, Jeanologia
“Sustainability isn’t a fad, it’s built into the core needs of the business. With so many opportunities for improvement, companies need to choose what core areas to focus on to demonstrate tangible progress. From field to fashion, the denim industry touches many points with the potential for positive impacts.”
—Daren Abney, Better Cotton Initiative
“The fact that there is no Planet B and the real need for dramatic changes on the way we handle our industry.”
—Panos Sofanios, Munich Fabric Start
“That the denim industry still has a lot of exciting stories to share. Levi’s proved this in 2018 by sharing how it’s using laser finishing. Couple that technology with localized, limited-edition designs, and a brand can create excitement at retail. We’ve been spoiled on the supply chain side because we’ve tinkered with Jeanologia’s laser machines at trade shows for years. We’ve seen the creative collections from Tonello made with sustainable processes. And we’ve touched the fashion-forward concept collections made with REFIBRA™ technology by TENCEL™. We see it and then fixate on what’s next, but these sustainable solutions are brand new to the consumer, so let’s give these ideas some room to breathe and grow at retail.”
—Angela Velasquez, managing editor, Rivet
“There are two things. Cost and expenses have risen significantly for denim mills so our mills have a great focus on maximizing efficiencies to minimize cost increases to our partners. There is also a lot of attention on trade deals with Asia affecting brands sourcing decisions so I think everyone is paying attention to the world as a whole more than ever before.”
—Brad Mowry, Artisan Cloth
“After a year of upcycling, rips, tears, frays, patching, and mending, I see denim going back to clean and classic jeans. I think personalized denim will continue in new ways. I see denim continuing as a canvas utilizing finishing technology in new and exciting ways. I still firmly believe that consumers want heavier weights, good quality and in some cases less stretch, less washing effects and better fits. This has been confirmed by the whole ‘Re-Done’ movement. I think brands should focus on better quality fabrics using sustainable and technical fibers from TENCEL™ Lyocell, Lycra®, Supima®, Cotton Inc., and E3 Cotton…a focus on ‘better ingredients’ and sustainable supply chains in denim manufacturing. I see that the industry is focusing on ‘performance’ cottons and fibers, which I term ‘vintage tech’ denim. And, in general, we need to remember sustainability must start with the workers, sewers, finishers and even designers. And what I feel most strongly is that companies need to focus a portion of the manufacturing on local production in their respective markets to ensure that we sustain workers and the art of denim making. To quote Peter Seeger, folk singer and social activist: ‘Think globally act, act locally.’”
—Christine Rucci, Godmother of Denim
This is part 2 in a series of 3 stories on Ask the Expert 2018.