Berto: 130 Years and Beyond
Berto is a name synonymous with quality and innovation in the denim industry. The Italian company, which will celebrate 130 years in business next year, is looking back in time for inspiration for its new Heritage Collection.
For the Autumn/Winter ’16, Berto has taken on the unique challenge of offering a special capsule collection made between Italy, Austria and New York City. Designed by Brenna Wallace, a graduate of Philadelphia University with more than 10 years of design experience behind her, the Heritage Collection utilizes TENCEL® fibers to create a collection that is both elegant and performance-ready.
The collection includes several items, including a motorbike jacket, two pair of trousers, a skirt and a sweatshirt, and features unique washing treatments.
Arianna Morimando, Berto marketing manager, says that the Heritage Collection cuts right to the heart of what consumers are demanding these days—quality and authenticity.
“Nowadays people are sick of very low-cost and quality products, they are looking for something new and heritage is a key [trend],” she said. “Specifically we are experiencing a market divided into two pieces: the biggest one is still satisfied with low cost products, but the other one is really looking for authenticity and quality. They are interested in the fabric that the brand has used to produce the garments, they prefer to buy less but they need good products. Less is more! I believe that fashion should go in this direction.”
When it came time to picking materials for the collection, TENCEL® was a natural choice.
“TENCEL® is a fiber processed with a closed loop system which is really soft, strong and provides performance benefits,” said Morimando. “The fabric we made with TENCEL® are softer, brighter, the touch is great and once sewn they fit perfectly.”
Berto also recently collaborated on a fun project with Lenzing for Amsterdam’s Denim Days in April, creating two stately chairs that flanked the entrance of the Kingpins show. The Kingdom armchair made entirely of TENCEL® and Lycra® dualFX® fabrics was the talk of the show.
“People loved the Kingdom armchairs, they took so many pictures! We are thinking about selling them,” said Morimando.
In addition to innovative use of fabrics, Berto is equally renowned for its focus on sustainability. For Berto, being a sustainable business is not an end goal, but a core value in every aspect of the company, from the purchase of the yarn from the best Italian producers up to the training and safeguard of all employees.
Over the years, all of Berto’s production processes have been redesigned and improved to ensure maximum efficiency in the consumption of energy, water and materials. For instance, the company’s brand new weaving mill with new looms provides significant energy savings and a reduction of 81 tons of Co2. In addition, a new suction system continues to minimize dust particles.
“We got second place during the 2015 ITMA Sustainable Innovation Award for Industry Excellence for our machinery the Matex Eco Applicator, a liquor application device with modern electronic control,” said Morimando. “The Matex Eco Applicator allows for an exact quantity of chemicals to be applied and a minimal amount of water to be used in the dyeing and finishing process. The liquor is not applied to the fabric by dipping in a trough in the conventional way, but by a thin coating using steel rollers.”
While the traditional padding process for finishing denim fabrics using a conventional padder, requiring liquor absorption of 70 percent, Berto’s machine can achieve the same effects using only 20-25 percent, resulting in a 46 percent energy savings as well as a significant reduction in the amount of wasted water.
“The craftsmanship approach has always found expression within the themes of safety, environmental protection and eco-sustainability,” said Morimando. “The relationship between production and environment has never been a constraint for Berto, but a driving force to improve our production quality and our competitiveness.”
Carved in Blue: What was your first pair of jeans?
Arianna: A pair of Levi’s that my mother bought for New York in 1996.
Carved in Blue: How did you start in the business?
Arianna: Two years ago here at Berto Industria Tessile, I would say… a twist of fate.
Carved in Blue: How has the industry changed from when you first started?
Arianna: The industry changed a lot! We are moving in new directions carried by exclusivity, quality, heritage, it’s not all about meters.
Carved in Blue: What is the one thing you love about our industry?
Arianna: Denim never dies, it only changes.
Carved in Blue: What does “carved in blue” mean to you?
Arianna: A new denim experience, a new important chapter in the denim history!