Blue Cast: Salli Deighton on Why Denim Designers Need Technical Know-How
The denim industry relies on specialized knowledge and skillsets. And as the category forges forward with sustainable innovation, it needs people who lean more toward action rather than words.
During the most recent Blue Cast episode, Lenzing’s Michael Kininmonth chatted with denim and production specialist Salli Deighton, who he describes as a “doer in an ocean of talkers.” Her three-decade career has included stints at Wrangler, Lee and Easy Jeans. Salli went freelance in the early 2000s, and she has since been tapped by companies like Arvind Mills, Fat Face, Asos and Marks & Spencer to develop denim lines, and her work has taken her around the globe.
When Salli started as a designer at Wrangler within VF Corporation, she was first sent to the company’s plant. Raymond Brown, who ran the facility, believed that the designers shouldn’t be planning out jeans until they understood how they were made by constructing their own pairs on the machines. During the 1990s, Salli explained that the hands-on approach extended to wet processing, since she would often get sent to the laundry with samples.
This background has given Salli a desire to understand the machines and processes being used so that she can design better. “I’ve made so many mistakes in my time and asked for things that were impossible, because I didn’t understand the equipment and how it was done,” Salli said. “That’s always been a big philosophy of mine: If you don’t know, ask.”
Salli observed that with changes in the industry and education, designers coming up often don’t have similar opportunities. Additionally, while brands used to have denim-specific technical experts, this specialization has mostly disappeared. In-house, now it is more common to see technical staff working across categories.
Having an understanding of how things are made also plays a role in driving more sustainable denim. As one example, Salli had been considering using resin on denim to create a 3D creasing effect. But after visiting a factory and experiencing the tear-inducing resin glue firsthand, she chose not to go that route.
Along with the environmental impact of denim, Salli says she feels responsible for protecting the well-being of factory workers. “I always try to think of the guy who is on the machine who has to earn enough money to feed his family every week,” she said. “Ultimately, it’s putting things right and balancing the world so we’re not creating poverty and pushing people out of jobs.”
Listen to the full episode here.