Blue Cast: Tracey Panek on Levi’s Denim History
Levi Strauss & Co. has more than a century of history, and it’s Tracey Panek’s job to piece together the threads of the brand’s past.
Since 2014, Tracey has been the historian for Levi’s, which includes managing the archives and acquiring pieces for the collection that is housed at the company’s San Francisco headquarters. In the third episode of our Blue Cast podcast, Tracey chatted with Lenzing’s Michael Kininmonth about some of her favorite finds, the most surprising items in the Levi’s archive and how some of the brand’s iconic design touches came to be.
Apparel—and denim in particular—tells the story of its owner. For instance, Tracey studied the wear on a pair of Levi’s 501s from the 1890s, which indicated that they were used by a cowboy. There were tears from spurs and patches where the man held the reins on his thighs. Another archival pair of jeans dating to the 1940s is believed to have been worn by a blacksmith, since there is an imprint most likely made from chaps.
In her time at Levi’s, Tracey has worked to digitize the archives to make them more accessible and searchable. Housing more than just jeans, this collection includes memorabilia and media such as advertisements dating back to the 1960s.
While there is so much material available related to Levi’s history, the there is a finite amount of space to house archive items. This means that the brand doesn’t hold on to every single new style released. “We don’t have the luxury to have every piece that comes out in the archives,” Tracey explained. One thing that Levi’s is making room for is its sustainability story. A recent addition is one of the first pairs of cottonized hemp jeans produced by Levi’s.
Part of what connects Tracey to her work is a long affection and emotional connection with the Levi’s brand. As a teen growing up in Salt Lake City, she wore shrink to fit 501 jeans. This personal history helps when trying to convince someone to part with a beloved piece.
“Having that passion about the brand and understanding how other people have the passion for the brand just helps in doing my work,” said Tracey.
The 501s will soon be turning 150, and according to Tracey, what has maintained their appeal is accessibility. Blue jeans got their start in blue collar work, and today they are still democratized. Denim’s place in history has also been cemented thanks to high-fashion and famous figures.
“It’s a classic, timeless garment,” she said. “Because of the timeless styling and look of them, they remain relevant today and can be used for anything from a catwalk…to someone who still wants to wear them as a working overall.”
Listen to the podcast here.