Catching Up with Kings of Indigo
Denim and tattoos go hand in hand. For Tony Tonnaer, the founder of Amsterdam-based label Kings of Indigo(also known as K.O.I.), his tattoo of a koi fish not only inspired his company’s name but also the brand’s smart yet rebellious design perspective.
As the K.O.I. website explains: “Koi fish are intelligent creatures and they tend to swim against the stream which is a strong metaphor for the rebellion that comes with a denim lifestyle. In Japan the Koi stands for luck, love and perseverance.”
From young to old, from hip to conservative, Tonnaer says the brand aims to please all consumers who want to buy quality denim with a perfect fit for a reasonable price.
The brand’s first collection hit stores in 2012, a time when Amsterdam was beginning to earn its place as Europe’s hub for denim. “The good thing about Amsterdam is that there is a true denim culture which has grown the past decades and there is a good pool of denim experts to build a strong team,” Tonnaer said.
The brand draws inspiration from vintage American workwear and sportswear, traditional Japanese clothing, travel and the internet.
“As a new brand we sell now mainly to cultural creative—consumers who are sensitive to a new quality brand and a sustainable way of living,” Tonnaer said.
The brand’s tag line is “Quality wear for the next era.” Although K.O.I. products are rooted in traditional denim history, Tonnaer says the actual designs are more modern, especially concerning fit, fabric and finishes.
“Fabrics need to be made from sustainable yarns, preferable dyed in a sustainable way,” he said.
Organic cotton has been a core ingredient in K.O.I. denim, however blends are becoming increasingly important. The brand uses organic cotton mixed with TENCEL®, hemp, linen, recycled cotton and recycled polyester.
The company also works with BSCI and Fairwear Foundation to ensure all of its factory partners meet high social compliance standards. Next Tonnaer says he aims to reduce the amount of water, chemicals and energy used in the washing stage.
In the past few years skinny and slim fit jeans in blues, black and grays, as well as 100 percent TENCEL® for women’s shirting, overalls, dresses and pants have done extremely well.
“For women, we use a lot of oversized fits in TENCEL®. We sell lots of comfort stretch and super stretch denims for men and women, so [we’re] definitely more than just dry selvage and heavy rigid jeans, although we make that too, as my true love is with the pure, dry denim,” Tonnaer said.
Carved in Blue: What is your first denim memory?
Tony: My LOIS denim jackets when I was around 10, and my first premium denim was a Verte Vallee jeans when I was 16.
Carved in Blue: What is your first job in denim?
Tony: Product developer at Pepe Jeans London from 1997 to 2002/
Carved in Blue: Name a denim trend you hope to never see again?
Tony: Snow wash denim and jeggings.
Carved in Blue: Who is your denim icon?
Tony: Steve McQueen
Carved in Blue: If you had to pick one jean to live in for life, what would it be?
Tony: Our regular fit Louis in Collect Japanese 14 oz. selvage.
Carved in Blue: If you weren’t working in denim, what would you be doing?
Tony: I would love to run a good coffee shop or lunchroom.
Carved in Blue: What does “Carved in Blue” mean to you?
Tony: Having an unlimited love for Indigo and the lifestyle that goes with being a true denim lover.