Crescent Bahuman Pinpoints Hemp for Denim Blends
Hemp is quickly catching on in the denim world as an alternative to cotton and a blending partner with cotton and wood-based fibers like TENCEL™ Lyocell.
The fiber is a less thirsty crop than cotton, making it drought tolerant, and its cultivation is quick. Hemp also delivers nutrients to the soil, and it can be composted at end of life.
After Pakistan’s government lifted its ban on growing hemp in September 2020, Crescent Bahuman Ltd. bought land to grow the fiber locally.
In addition to its agricultural investment, Crescent is introducing hemp-based materials. The mill teamed with design consultant Miles Johnson to develop a collection featuring blends of hemp, TENCEL™ Lyocell and Better Cotton Initiative and organic cotton. The 100 percent sustainable materials feature a high hemp content. Some of the fabrications are fully cotton-free, with a mix of hemp and TENCEL™ Lyocell. An ecru hemp textile uses solely undyed and unbleached cottonized hemp.
“Our collaboration has also given us this value-adding innovation in producing blends of hemp and TENCEL™ Lyocell replicating the feel and character of cotton,” said Miles.
Even the trims are eco-friendly, with screwable buttons, recycled back patches and organic cotton labels. A crescent moon bartack reinforces the jeans without using metal rivets.
In addition to the sustainable materials, Now or Never uses CBL’s Naya low-impact indigo dyeing process that provides water savings of 98 percent in dyeing and 80 percent in finishing.
According to Zaki Saleemi, VP Strategy at Crescent Bahuman, “In addition to the water saving at the denim fabric stage the entire collection is also based on sustainable washes, significantly reducing water and chemical usage with the use of special synthetic stones that last up to 80 washes and green chemistry for bleached down effect.”
Miles took inspiration from climate protests of the past and present, dating back to the 1960s. The designs also reference workwear and military styles. The concept speaks to the growing push for climate action, and many in the fashion and denim community are heeding the calls from activists.
“Hemp is the future for a more sustainable denim industry,” said Miles.
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