Denimheads Talk 2019
One of the most inspiring things about denim is its ability to change over time; no other fabric can capture the intricacies of a wearer’s history quite like denim does.
It’s not surprising, then, that the people who live to create denim are deeply dialed into its capabilities, its legacy and its potential.
Here, we present some of the most quotable insight we picked up in our 2019 denim travels.
On Creating Sustainably and Responsibly
Andrew Olah, founder, Olah Inc. and Kingpins: “Real cost of goods is not the traditional cost of a garment but is the environmental impact and waste impact that needs to be considered on a garment cost. We are all responsible that our industry is not talking about ‘real costs’ of a garment. But this conversation is percolating, and it will be very critical in the future.”
Salli Denton, denim consultant, Asos and Gas: “As I said, I’m very responsible for what happened in the ’90s and I think a lot of my peers would say the same. I think we all love what we do so much, and we want to put it right. We’re absolutely determined that we’re going to make better denim, and the aim is to get to circular fashion.”
On What’s Inspiring about Denim
Vivian Wang, managing director, Kingpins: “The denim industry is so unique and is full of people who are motivated by passion—for authenticity, tradition, innovation and change.”
Panos Sofanios, business manager, Bluezone: “In the last five years this community is blossoming and getting more and more fun. I think it’s to do with the romanticism that is behind denim. It’s not about consumption. It’s about the feeling that this fabric can create.”
Jill Lawrence, founder, The Denim Eye: “I love all things indigo: its romantic forever blue, its smell, its quixotic nature, its constant surprises, its lack of adherence to cotton, which enables it to wash down and become anything you want. I was an artist, so working with indigo denim, particularly in the laundry, is akin to painting. I love the innovation. The creative and often surprising use of new fibers and finishes, new technology, and the way that the industry has become more global over the last 40 years.”
Rich Tobin, vice president sales and marketing, Kaltex America: “It’s the chipping and the fading and the ability to buy a rigid and wear it and tell your own story. Your wear patterns, your life, your way of moving, the things that you do, the things that you keep in your pocket—they eventually find their way to the surface as it ages and you get a really unique look that, to date, is not really available in any other product.”
On What’s Missing
Jordan Nodarse, creative director, Boyish Denim: “Conscious consumerism and one non-bias, non-profit agency to fully inspect a product’s entire supply chain back to the ground that the fiber was grown.”
Brad Mowry, founder, Artisan Cloth: “Sometimes a clear vision from brands. In challenging economic times, sometimes brands are forced to focus on sales or cost and may lose a creative advantage. We hope the future brings strong economics and confident creativity.”
Amy Wang, general manager, Advance Denim: “There is a lack of real innovation. Everyone is talking about sustainability but there is no short-term ‘quick fix.’ In order to be truly responsible, you need a long-term strategy based on meaningful sustainable innovation.”
On Making Progress
Alberto Candiani, CEO, Candiani Denim: “TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ is the key ingredient to finalize our recycled and regenerated fabrics. To be named a finalist at ITMA Sustainable Innovation Award means that our efforts in making a better product are true, tangible and visible. We are transforming what was considered ‘a reckless blue fabric’ into an indigo flag representative of the highest level of sustainability applied to textiles.”