How US Denim Creates Premium Cotton-Free Jeans with TENCEL™
When denim mills are creating fabrics, they have more material options than ever at their disposal. Although cotton is traditionally associated with denim, manufacturers are developing cotton-free textiles with inputs including TENCEL™ fibers.
Among these innovators is Pakistan’s US Denim, which recently created premium denim fabrics that contain 70 percent TENCEL™ Lyocell mixed with viscose, polyester and elastane. To go along with the high-end hand feel of the jeans, US Denim used an innovative dye process to create a midnight indigo color.
Intizar Ali, general manager business development at US Denim Mills, a company of US Group, chatted with Carved in Blue about the collection and why TENCEL™ fibers are a prime choice for premium denim.
Carved in Blue: In the denim world, TENCEL™ has often been a minor or roughly 50/50 blending partner. What made U.S. Denim want to use TENCEL™ at a 70 percent concentration for cotton-free jeans?
Intizar: There are two primary reasons behind this choice. Firstly, it aims to offer a super-premium blend that not only delivers exceptional comfort and luxurious hand feel but also boasts an aesthetically pleasing appearance, offering modern luxury denim. Secondly, TENCEL™ lyocell is sustainable manmade fiber with performance attributes like moisture management and thermal transmission, which elevates overall consumer experience as luxury along with performance.
Carved in Blue: How does the fabric feel compared to a conventional cotton-based jean?
Intizar: As for the feel, it surpasses conventional cotton-based jeans, offering an unparalleled level of coziness and super soft touch. Most importantly, jeans developed with TENCEL™ blends give a lightweight feel as compared to cotton jeans.
Carved in Blue: How did you achieve the super dark indigo shade? What was the technology behind the color?
Intizar: We achieved the super dark indigo shade through optimization of dyeing conditions and utilizing maximum dyeing boxes while focusing on brighter washdowns of product (eco advance dyeing). This method results in an intense dark shade for dark washes, while for the light washes, it remarkably brightens up, creating a striking contrast and ensuring a captivating appearance.
Carved in Blue: Are you seeing wash preferences shift back to darker shades? What demand are you seeing for deeper indigos?
Intizar: We opted for this new dyeing technique because we observed that premium fabrics appear more promising in dark washes. This innovative approach allows us to achieve both dark premium washes and bright light washes, providing versatility in our offerings. Additionally, according to market intel, the trend is leaning towards products which offer versatility and washes for all seasons, making our approach well-aligned with current preferences.
Carved in Blue: What types of apparel would be the best fit for these fabrics? How could brands incorporate them into their collections?
Intizar: These fabrics are ideal for trendy styles like high-rise flares and slim straights, making it a perfect fit for brands’ premium collections. Its versatility ensures effortless style, whether for relaxed loungewear or polished corporate attire, offering both comfort and a trendy statement.
Carved in Blue: What response have you gotten from the industry so far for this TENCEL™ denim?
Intizar: The response from the industry for our TENCEL™ denim has been exceptionally positive. As our key fabric launched at Kingpins Amsterdam, it’s notable for being cotton-free and produced through an eco-advanced dyeing process. The feedback from customers and brands globally has been outstanding, solidifying its position as our top pick fabric at Kingpins.