What Kings of Indigo Really Thinks About Jeans
Kings of Indigo, established in 2011 and launched in 2012, makes some of the most distinctive denim pieces on the market, all inspired by American classics and Japanese details.
That signature look is thanks to founder Tony Tonnaer, who designs quality products meant to become heirloom pieces that last for generations.
Carved in Blue spoke with Tony, who still heads the Amsterdam-based brand seven years after its foundation, about K.O.I.’s latest projects, his favorite denim memories, and what he really considers “jeans.”
Carved In Blue: What’s the latest thing you’re working on at Kings of Indigo?
Tony: So many things, as we are continuously working on innovating on fabrics, washing and social standards. One of the last pieces of the puzzle is 100 percent sustainable trims, so we’re exploring recycled polyester stitching yarn. The rest of our trims are already recycled or organic.
Carved In Blue: How has what it means to be sustainable evolved for you in recent years?
Tony: I have been working in sustainable denim collections for 16 years. Every year it changes—we set and achieve new short-term and long-term goals.
Carved In Blue: How important is sustainability to what you’re doing? Why?
Tony: Very much. I would not make non-sustainable garments anymore! It is very fulfilling not just to make clothing which looks good, but also keep innovating ways to make it cleaner, more honest, long-lasting and timeless. Without sustainability, I would have been bored with fashion, and started another business, I think.
Carved In Blue: What’s next for Kings of Indigo?
Tony: We are launching in North America this year, which is big for us. We also launch a TRC Regen program with unwashed, entirely recycled cotton (using recylced cotton mixed with REFIBRA(TM) technology) this June for men, women and kids. I’m very excited about that.
Carved In Blue: What’s your first denim memory?
Tony: A dry Lee denim jacket which I wore all the time when I was 12.
Carved In Blue: What’s one trend in denim you want to see go away?
Tony: The use of new conventional cotton and use as much as possible recycled materials and manmade cellulosic fibers.
Carved In Blue: Where do you look for denim inspiration?
Tony: My inspiration for Kings of Indigo has been a mix of American classics and Japanese eye for detail. So I travel on a regular basis to Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Los Angeles, and other US regions, most recently Nashville.
Carved In Blue: When does a jean stop being a jean?
Tony: The fabric should have a twill line with a weight between 11 and 14oz. It can be blue, black, or a color dye. I prefer non-stretch. Having a little comfort stretch is still ok, but with over 10 percent of Lycra/polyester, it’s not a jean anymore for me.
Carved In Blue: What does Carved in Blue mean to you?
Tony: I love working with indigo in the broadest meaning. Of course, that means creating dry selvedge denim, but most of all I love using other fabrics in indigo, like Blue Back TENCEL™ branded lyocell and modal fiber, linen weaves, linen and cotton handwoven dobby, hemp and cotton denim fabrics. These show so many different faces of indigo and spice up our collections next to classic five-pocket denims.