Mill Memo: Inside Asia Manufacturers’ Eco Efforts
Denim mills are cleaning up jean production, and one of their moves is evolving raw material choices. Wood-based TENCEL™ fibers offer a lower impact alternative that comes with the added benefit of improved softness and durability.
Here, executives from Kaihara, Moririn and Vinatex discuss how they are using TENCEL™ Lyocell and their climate action strategies.
KAIHARA
Japan
Carved in Blue: Could you give an overview of your latest collections that include TENCEL™ fibers including REFIBRA™ technology?
Kaihara: There are two main types of denim: “soft denim” with the look and feel of vintage denim that takes advantage of TENCEL™’s softness and texture, and “cotton-less denim” that is more in-tune with current trends.
In the former, 40 percent TENCEL™ lyocell is blended with cotton in the warp, weft or both to make a firm 12-13 oz. denim.
In the latter, we developed fabrics with 60-100 percent TENCEL™ in the warp and 100 percent TENCEL™ in the weft, or with a blend of TENCEL™ and linen to make around 10 oz. fabric with almost no cotton.
Carved in Blue: Are you currently incorporating TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology or matte TENCEL™ into your denim?
Kaihara: We are working on developing fabrics using both TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology and matte TENCEL™.
As for indigo modal, Fukuyama, our hometown, has a thriving denim industry. This time we are developing it for a local junior high school. We are now in the final stages of development and it will be adopted.
Regarding matte TENCEL™, we are working with a major apparel maker to develop a denim that is sustainable and has a texture similar to cotton with a low sheen.
We felt that both materials have the potential to bring out the unique characteristics of each while maintaining the original softness of TENCEL™. We will continue to develop regenerated cellulose fiber because it is an important material that will support the future.
Carved in Blue: What top three things is your mill doing to combat climate change?
Kaihara: For many years, we have sought to coexist in harmony with nature. We consider environmental preservation to be one of our most important missions.
First, in wastewater treatment, we have established strict voluntary environmental standards that far exceed official standards, and we are equipped with state-of-the-art facilities. We have the latest facilities and thoroughly purify wastewater using environmentally friendly ozone treatment and other methods.
Second, in consideration of the atmospheric environment, we have converted the fuel used for our machinery. By replacing heavy oil boilers with LP gas boilers, we aim to save energy and reduce CO2 emissions. In this way, we will continue to spare no effort to maintain our symbiosis with nature.
Third, we will continue to recycle fallen cotton and leftover fabrics that are inevitably generated in the production process. We are working to eliminate losses as much as possible by mixing a little of the fallen cotton with virgin cotton and spinning it. We are also making efforts to contribute to society by donating the leftover fabric that is no longer needed to local facilities.
MORIRIN
Japan
Carved in Blue: Could you give an overview of your latest collections that include TENCEL™ fibers including REFIBRA™ technology?
Moririn: We are using TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology in the warp, with cotton PU in the weft.
Carved in Blue: Are you currently incorporating TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology or matte TENCEL™ into your denim?
Moririn: We have launched a brand called Aquaraiz, which is a brand that challenges the infinite possibilities of denim.
The fabric collection of Aquaraiz is mainly using TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology. In addition to modal indigo, we blend with modal black and achieve dark indigo, black, dark grey, light grey, white in fabric, totally six colored fabrics with SD viscose. Indeed, “dark indigo” looks true indigo, and we are very happy of the result. In the future, besides apparel application, we plan to expend its use to accessories and upholstery application for these fabrics.
Carved in Blue: What top three things is your mill doing to combat climate change?
Moririn: Adopting traceable materials; no excess production, and trying to limit industrial waste; and more use of recycled fibers and proposing to brands and retails.
VINATEX INTERNATIONAL FABRIC COMPANY LIMITED/PHONG PHU INTERNATIONAL JOINT STOCK COMPANY (PPJ)
Vietnam
Carved in Blue: Could you give an overview of your latest collections that include TENCEL™ fibers including REFIBRA™ technology?
Vinatex: VTF and PPJ are more committed to make sustainable fabric and garments.
REFIBRA™ and ECOVERO™ are two of our finest sustainable fibers to add in to our collection, and we recently launched A/W22-23 with the concept “Soft Molecule.”
We have done the concept to create the softest hand with this fiber in addition to the brush back effect.
Collections have been done to create a richer look, fine twill, salt and pepper look, fine indigo with Aizome and Happy Days color. It also includes the comfort stretch and super stretch with better recovery to fit any size garments.
As a principle, we use only sustainable poly fibers like Repreve—recycled polyester in place of regular polyester. In addition to that, we support customers to provide the recycling hangtag.
We have a business collaboration with Kurabo Japan to use recycled cotton yarn L∞Plus. This is produced by using post-consumer blue waste and used garments cut in to make recycled fiber and mixed at some proportion with regular cotton.
For another step in sustainable production, we explore the possibility to use more biodegradable polyester yarn in to our collection.
Carved in Blue: Are you currently incorporating TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology or matte TENCEL™ into your denim?
Vinatex: We have discussed with you before about TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology, and we are keen to have this development in our side with help of the Lenzing team. Since we do not have a direct spinning mill to use this fiber, it’s better to have yarn to make development possible.
Carved in Blue: What top three things is your mill doing to combat climate change?
Vinatex: As a mill, we also contribute to reduce the carbon footprint and save our mother earth.
We use very less energy, even it’s small and insignificant in terms of measurement, but we focus to improve.
Most of the staff and operators are well aware of the energy saving and usage of energy in every area of work. We created awareness among all operators down the line.
We have strong R&D, and always think about process modification to save water and energy other than the use of sustainable fibers and dyes.