Mill Memo: Inside China Manufacturers’ Eco Efforts
Denim mills are cleaning up jean production, and one of their moves is evolving raw material choices. Wood-based TENCEL™ fibers offer a lower impact alternative that comes with the added benefit of improved softness and durability.
Here, executives from Black Peony, Blue Diamond, Freedom Denim, Panther Denim and Prosperity discuss how they are using TENCEL™ Lyocell and their climate action strategies.
BLACK PEONY
Weimin Jiang, general manager
Carved in Blue: Could you give an overview of your latest collections that include TENCEL™ fibers including REFIBRA™ technology?
Weimin: The products of TENCEL™ that we have recently developed are mainly Spring and Summer. Moreover, there are three types of products: 100 percent TENCEL™, TENCEL™ and cotton blends, as well as TENCEL™ and acetate blends. The products that use the TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology are mainly elastic. Additionally, we blended the modal and mulberry silk that meets the requirements of natural skin soothers.
Carved in Blue: Are you currently incorporating TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology or matte TENCEL™ into your denim?
Weimin: Yes, we always apply these innovations to our denim. Now, we have recommended the products with indigo color to our domestic customers. Recently, we have finished the production of matte TENCEL™’s small sample, which will then be launched into the markets.
Carved in Blue: What top three things is your mill doing to combat climate change?
Weimin: We use sustainable fibers, such as recycled polyester, recycled cotton, carbon-zero TENCEL™ and other natural fibers.
In terms of the technology, we also have explored the air-dyeing and clean dyeing techniques to save energy.
In terms of overall planning, we optimize the overall arrangement of energy and provide the low-carbon energy and renewable energy. Now, we have realized a distributed photovoltaic of 60,000 square meters, which can achieve an annual power generation of 5.4 million kwh.
BLUE DIAMOND
Maggie Zhang, sales manager
Carved in Blue: Could you give an overview of your latest collections that include TENCEL™ fibers including REFIBRA™ technology?
Maggie: We are producing a TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ quality for Levi’s. The warp yarn is 60 percent cotton, 40 percent REFIBRA™ blended, and the weft yarn is a cotton/polyester blended stretch yarn. The weight is 10 oz., with very good stretch and it’s soft, good for skinny patterns.
In addition, we launched OE Luxe. We use OE yarn spinning to combine with luxury TENCEL™ fiber, and we re-invented OE into a premium yarn innovation that we called OE Luxe.
Carved in Blue: Are you currently incorporating TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology or matte TENCEL™ into your denim?
Maggie: We have a lot of TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology developments. It absorbed a lot of eyes from the market; the only problem is the high cost—no clients are willing to pay now.
We just developed a few qualities using matte TENCEL™. We use it on warp and weft. We’ve shown these developments to our clients since the end of March.
Carved in Blue: What top three things is your mill doing to combat climate change?
Maggie: We worked on a close-loop project. We collect the sewing waste from garment vendors, then reuse the waste for the same fabric, so that there is not waste from the garment vendor.
We use smart indigo dye, which uses 70 percent less chemicals and 40 percent less water.
We have our own wastewater treatment, recycling and reusing 100 percent wastewater, so that there is no fresh water to be used during our production.
FREEDOM DENIM
Jason Gao, general manager
Carved in Blue: Could you give an overview of your latest collections that include TENCEL™ fibers including REFIBRA™ technology?
Jason: Freedom is using a wide array of fiber blends with REFIBRA™ technology. Not only is it mixed with Modal and TENCEL™ lyocell, but also bast fibers like hemp and linen. We commonly use blends incorporating USA and African cotton, degradable polyesters and recycled nylon. Fabric weight for the spring season ranges run from 6 oz. shirting to 13.5 oz. str fabric in a multitude of colors and finishes.
Carved in Blue: Are you currently incorporating TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology or matte TENCEL™ into your denim?
Jason: Freedom is currently using TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology or matte TENCEL™ into our denims. Currently we have developed multiple bottom weight fabrics with indigo modal. Not only does the fiber offer amazing color saturation and high levels of performance in crocking but also delivers soft fluid hand with a very supple touch and superb performance in stretch, growth and recovery.
Matte TENCEL™ is being incorporated into top weights at this point to decrease the shine and luster normally associated with TENCEL™. Freedom in the near future will be moving into bottom weights utilizing matte TENCEL™ for the Spring 23 season.
Carved in Blue: What top three things is your mill doing to combat climate change?
Jason: Freedom considers its role on the planet and is working diligently towards reducing the carbon footprint. The efforts in sustainability and best practice manufacturing are a never-ending evolution, where the bar is constantly being raised. There are more than three efforts in work, but if we had to put our finger on three they would be the following.
We use solar power to assist in powering our operation. Currently, Freedom produces 10.5 million kilowatts of electricity from its own solar fields. This number continues to grow, and the goal is to be running on green energy or bio energy completely one day.
We are also reducing the water consumed in our manufacturing. Currently Freedom Denim is recycling 42.5 percent of all the water used. This is everything from toilets to the dye range. In two years, that number will be 60 percent, and in five years 100 percent of all the water used in the operation for any purposes will be recycled.
The advancements in sustainable fiber technology and best practices in chemistry and dye stuff is a constant upward push to Freedom’s practices in manufacturing.
PANTHER DENIM
Shadow Chan, sales director
Carved in Blue: Could you give an overview of your latest collections that include TENCEL™ fibers including REFIBRA™ technology?
Shadow: TENCEL™ fiber is one of the sustainable and environmentally friendly fibers known in the market. TENCEL™ has unique softness and drape, giving the fabric an excellent hand feel, and a smooth surface. With these features, TENCEL™ has always been favored by major brands and consumers. We have been committed to the continuous development of TENCEL™ fiber. Our latest developed products are REFIBRA™, matte TENCEL™ , zero-carbon TENCEL™ , and TENCEL™ filament yarn.
Our current focus is on the following two directions of the development of TENCEL™.
We’re adding TENCEL™ fibers, including REFIBRA™, to classic heritage denim fabrics to improve the hand feel and comfort of wearing, while retaining the authentic denim look. This series is composed of TENCEL™, including REFIBRA™, combined with cotton and recycled cotton with the most comfort stretch level. The fabric weight is medium to heavy, mainly used in bottoms, denim jackets, etc.
Our high-quality, soft and flowing TENCEL™ series is mainly made by the blending of full TENCEL™ (including REFIBRA™), TENCEL™ (including REFIBRA™) mixed with cotton and recycled cotton, and TENCEL™ (including REFIBRA™) mixed other fibers. This series is mainly used for tops, skirts, etc., with the main weight of light to medium.
Carved in Blue: Are you currently incorporating TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology or matte TENCEL™ into your denim?
Shadow: Lenzing is an import cooperative partner in our development. At present, we have developed several varieties of matte TENCEL™ and promoted it to some of our key clients. We plan to carry out continuous development in conjunction with other sustainable fibers with special organizational structures. In addition, we are also planning to develop a series for TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology.
Carved in Blue: What top three things is your mill doing to combat climate change?
Shadow: Panther always follows the path of sustainable development and puts the protection of the ecological environment in the first place in production. In addition to choosing environmentally friendly fibers, we have also made reforms and improvements in dyeing technology, auxiliaries, energy reduction and emission reduction.
We use sustainable fibers such as recycled cotton, REFIBRA™, recycled polyester, zero-carbon TENCEL™, linen, and hemp for production. Moreover, we are working on a range of new eco technologies, which are about dyeing and finishing, such as laser-friendly colors, C-Zero, etc.
As a high energy-consuming industry, we work hard to reduce energy and increase efficiency. We have successively established a mercerizing machine alkali waste recycling project, setting machine waste heat recycling project, reclaimed water recycling project and other energy-saving measures. We recycle and transform the waste generated in the production process and give it a second life, so as to achieve truly effective sustainability.
As a fabric factory, we not only take our own responsibility to protect the environment, but also convey the concept of environmental protection to our clients.
Panther aims to “create green fashion and move towards new sustainability,” and will always support the concept of environmental protection and green ecology.
PROSPERITY
Andy Zhong, marketing director
Carved in Blue: Could you give an overview of your latest collections that include TENCEL™ fibers including REFIBRA™ technology?
Andy: New for Spring/Summer 23 is our D-Light shirting weight denim, crafted with rustic looking cotton yarns combined with finer TENCEL™ Lyocell yarns, resulting in a lighter weight denim with increased breathability.
Carved in Blue: Are you currently incorporating TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology or matte TENCEL™ into your denim?
Andy: We are happy to have these two new TENCEL™ technologies in our collections. Thanks to the newly launched matte TENCEL™ Lyocell, our Matte Lux Denim combines the soft and drapey hand of lyocell with the look of a classic cotton denim shirting, in a blooming pure indigo, greatly reducing sheen and offering a wide variety of authentic looking washdowns. And our Future Blue Denim, featuring TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology, provides a great option for stay-at-home or work-from-home fashions—super cozy, comfortable and stylish. Moreover, its one-step spun-dyeing process can deliver indigo color with better colorfastness and less environmental impacts.
Carved in Blue: What top three things is your mill doing to combat climate change?
Andy: We relentlessly pursue ways to combat climate change: more sustainable materials, less impact production processes, and laser- and ozone-friendly denim fabrics.