Mill Memo: Inside Turkey Manufacturers’ Eco Efforts
Denim mills are cleaning up jean production, and one of their moves is evolving raw material choices. Wood-based TENCEL™ fibers offer a lower impact alternative that comes with the added benefit of improved softness and durability.
Here, executives from Bossa, Çalik, DNM, Kipas Denim, Orta and Tusa Denim discuss how they are using TENCEL™ Lyocell and their climate action strategies.
BOSSA
Özge Özsoy, marketing chief
Carved in Blue: Could you give an overview of your latest collections that include TENCEL™ fibers including REFIBRA™ technology?
Özge: We mostly used TENCEL™ and REFIBRA™ together in our Future Denim items. Combining sustainable fibers and dyeing techniques, we create the denim of the future.
Future Denims are 100 percent sustainable. Articles have a sustainable combination of TENCEL™, REFIBRA™, recycled cotton, organic cotton, hemp and any other sustainable fibers. And they are also dyed with Bossa Saveblue technology. Eight-five percent water savings were achieved in proportion to the conventional dyeing, therefore the same amount of water decrease in wastewater was realized.
In the Autumn/Winter collection, weights are around 11-14 oz., and in the Spring/Summer collections, weights are around 10-12 oz.
Alone, we used TENCEL™ fiber in both light ounce shirting-style qualities and high ounces.
Light ounce TENCEL™ blended items keep your soul soft and relaxed.
We used TENCEL™ fiber in high ounces with combining any other sustainable fibers like hemp, reycled cotton, post-consumer recycled cotton, etc. Because of its sustainable benefits, we combined TENCEL™ with sustainable fibers to make the fabric more sustainable, mostly in our Future Denims.
And also, softness is really important. We have our Eversoft concept: Meet the softest denim in the blue world! It uses a brand new finishing technology that offers extreme comfort and ultra-softness that was never before experienced in denim. We also used TENCEL™ fiber in these fabrics.
Carved in Blue: Are you currently incorporating TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology or matte TENCEL™ into your denim?
Özge: We are currently using TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology. Our new items are in the production stage.
We planned fully sustainable products. Our plan is to show these items as new stay indigo color technology. We planned items including soft touch and no-cotton products.
We can say that the most important advantage is that we save a huge amount of water, since it eliminates the dyeing process and does not have an effect in the washing stage. Indigo modal also has advantages such as ease of planning and rapid production.
Carved in Blue: What top three things is your mill doing to combat climate change?
Özge: Bossa has been actively involved in the protection and preservation of the environment since its startup.
We care about the future. We aim to raise the level of awareness on environmental issues. We do our part.
Bossa launched its first Re-Set collection in 2006. The usage of organic cotton and natural dyestuff until 2006 has been taken to the next level with the launch of this collection. Every year, a valuable addition has been made to it. Today, Bossa offers a wide range of products with natural dyestuff, recycled cotton, recycled PET, organic cotton, natural fibers (i.e. linen, hemp, wool), BCI Cotton, cotton made in Africa, GMO-free Turkish cotton and naturally colored cotton.
Blending recycled cotton with virgin cotton is really important and is not so easy. We made investments for producing high-quality recycled denims.
As Bossa, we are developing a zero-waste life cycle to close the loop, Towards Zero Waste. Starting from 2019, we have begun to use all of our textile wastes in our blend by opening or cleaning them. We adopted the following procedures aimed at reducing our environmental impact: re-usage, sustainable materials, energy efficiency, water saving, process engineering, collaboration, co-creation, certification and ecological dyeing.
Social responsibility is also at the heart of what we do! We believe it is our duty to be socially responsible. Bossa’s human resources policy was founded on modernity, equal opportunities and human rights.
We believe that sustainability needs transparency! As Bossa, we have transparently explained our production figures for the last three years with our “Towards Zero Waste” booklet, and will continue to annually report our production values.
We have now reduced our water consumption to 30 liters per meter by complying with the requirements of the Ellen MacArthur Jeans Redesign project. We made several projects on this issue.
Bossa is located in the organized industrial zone. A central water treatment system is implemented in the Organized Industrial Zone. We filter and clean our wastewater in first class and send it to this center for use in nature. We have an ongoing project to use remaining water in the loop.
The first phase of our solar energy system project with a power of 7.033kW has been completed. This has 18,270 panels located on the roof, thus the annual avoided greenhouse gas emission is 5 million kg. We also have a cogeneration system. As a result of these two investments, we are now producing 50 percent of our total energy need by ourselves. With the roof reinforcements, the second phase of the solar energy system project has started.
Bossa is the greenest mill in the Adana Organized Industrial Zone. By sponsoring many sapling planting campaigns—both in our region and throughout Turkey—we continue to do our part to make both Turkey and the world greener.
ÇALIK
Çiğdem Kaçar, product marketing manager
Carved in Blue: Could you give an overview of your latest collections that include TENCEL™ fibers including REFIBRA™ technology?
Çiğdem: Our upcoming AW 23/24 collection—which is going to be launched at Kingpins Amsterdam Show in April again—includes many articles with TENCEL™ fibers, including REFIBRA™ technology to further support circularity. Under the umbrella of the Re/J product concept that consists of articles with 100 percent recycled content as well as the E-Denim product concept, which includes circular design-based products produced with ring spun yarn, as Calik Denim we developed many articles using TENCEL™ fiber with REFIBRA™ technology. We have rigid, comfort stretch and power stretch articles with these features. The washed weights of the articles varies between 13 to 15 oz.
Carved in Blue: What top three things is your mill doing to combat climate change?
Çiğdem: Starting from 2020, we do LCA (life cycle assessment) studies for our fabrics. In addition, LCA studies are confirmed with the EPD (Environmental Product Declarations) documents, which are based on production processes. The environmental impact scores of fabrics are calculated and presented in detail to the customers with QR codes.
In order to follow up our corporate carbon footprint and to determine which improvements can be realized in this field, corporate carbon footprint reporting is completed according to the ISO 14064 standard for both 2020 and 2021 years.
To decrease our carbon footprint, we don’t use charcoal any more. Instead, we prefer natural gas. In addition, by buying YEK-G certificates, we are neutralizing the carbon footprint of our electricity usage.
We are working on projects to maximize manufacturing with recycled raw materials as well as to increase circular production.
DNM
Zuhal Karaçayir, marketing manager
Carved in Blue: Could you give an overview of your latest collections that include TENCEL™ fibers including REFIBRA™ technology?
Zuhal: TENCEL™ fiber is commonly used in DNM’s collections. Depending on the fabric construction and requirements, we have a variety of blends.
TENCEL™ content usage rate in the fabric composition is 10-15 percent in our fabrics, and the weight ranges from 11–14 oz. We have a large assortment of fabrics with elasticity ranging from 0 to 70 percent.
Carved in Blue: Are you currently incorporating TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology or matte TENCEL™ into your denim?
Zuhal: We were unable to apply TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology since our production line is not suitable. We’re working on a project for matte TENCEL™.
Carved in Blue: What top three things is your mill doing to combat climate change?
Zuhal: Water conservation is the first and most critical concern for us. At DNM, we use 21.99 liters of water to produce 1 meter of fabric; 84 percent of this amount is recycled water. That means we consume just 3.47 liters of fresh water to produce 1 meter of fabric.
Apart from that, we are working on specific projects to reduce water, energy and chemical consumption: Neat Finish Project and Waterless Color Project.
Furthermore, we are increasing use the percentage of post-consumer and pre-consumer, cottonized hemp and TENCEL™ in the fabric composition.
In addition, we are continuing to reduce our carbon footprint at DNM Denim. CO2 emissions per meter fell by 29 percent in 2021 compared to 2019.
KIPAS DENIM
Hurriyet Öztürk, director of product development
Carved in Blue: Could you give an overview of your latest collections that include TENCEL™ fibers including REFIBRA™ technology?
Hurriyet: In general, we use Lenzing products in about 30 percent of our collection. These products are used as a mixture with recycled polyester and cotton. We use these products both to increase color vibrancy and to contribute to the touch.
Carved in Blue: What top three things is your mill doing to combat climate change?
Hurriyet: We use zero water, zero indigo dyestuff, zero chemicals and zero virgin cotton in the products in our Zero Impact concept that we have developed using TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology. We think that these products, which are very close to standard denim in appearance, are durable in color and will reduce the end user’s complaints about color.
By 2025, 500,000 trees will be planted for climate change. In this way, we will take back as much carbon as we have released into nature and become carbon neutral. Thanks to the geothermal and solar energy it uses, Kipas also reduces its carbon footprint. We choose the cotton we use from brands such as Good Earth Cotton and turn to sustainable and carbon-positive raw materials.
ORTA
Zennure Danişman, marketing and washing manager
Carved in Blue: Could you give an overview of your latest collections that include TENCEL™ fibers including REFIBRA™ technology?
Zennure: With our SS23 Open Ticket collection, as Orta we launched the Zenful family with lightweight performance fabrics for relaxed fits and styles. We created a shiny bright perspective in an organic, floaty cotton with TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ for the freshest zen style. Denim that fully immerses you in the moment, Zenful is Orta’s new zen-sphere of lightweight performance denim. It’s here for simplicity; a carefully curated denim collection consolidates our well-being and the well-being of the planet.
While Zenful has TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™, our JOYRIDE family represents breezy styles with utilitarian minimalism with TENCEL™ fibers, and organic and recycled cotton. It meets Ellen MacArthur Jeans Redesign’s strength criteria of good tensile strength after 30 home launderings.
For the AW24 season, we are working on a main concept with a supreme soft story. Under this concept, we have a ready-to-dye TENCEL™, including fabric with Cashmere Finish. We have a soft stretch fabric with LENZING™ ECOVERO™ and Cashmere Finish. This season we have a continuum of our Zero-Max ® family. We are also expanding our breakthrough Zero-Max denim, using TENCEL™ fibers, that uses zero virgin cotton while delivering maximum shape retention.
Also, for AW24 we will present our glam look: TENCEL™ included, easy-care, easy-wear biodegradable sta-prest fabrics. With this concept, we provide sustainable, bio-based and biodegradable sta-prest options thanks to TENCEL™ and PLA. Additionally, we will celebrate bodycon styles with TENCEL™, including soft stretch fabrics with clean city looks.
Carved in Blue: Are you currently incorporating TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology or matte TENCEL™ into your denim?
Zennure: For the first time for our AW24 collection, we have engineered a fabric family with TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology under our glammy looks. The family includes zero virgin cotton fabrics, and they have an almost stay color hue and supreme soft touch due to TENCEL™ Modal technology.
These are eco-designed with TENCEL™ Modal fiber sustainably dyed Indigo Color technology so fibers are pre-dyed—no need for further dyeing the warp. Thanks to TENCEL™ Modal, we deliver rich dark rinse in ultra-soft touch that requires no industrial dying and more color integrity than ever before!
Carved in Blue: What top three things is your mill doing to combat climate change?
Zennure: At Orta, it is in our DNA to be in a constant search for innovative solutions for a better future of denim and with that, we aim to be part of the solution in fashion without waste; because a great pair of jeans is an emotional badge, a reminder of good times.
Our goal is to create immortal products, long-lasting, good quality fabrics combining circular production with durable construction while efficiently using our resources. We are investing in the next generation sustainability solutions that will drive more technological wonders in reaching our goal for endless use and reuse of everything involved in making our denim. Since the beginning, we have been constantly exploring processes that help us recycle, upcycle and repurpose everything and use our resources efficiently, moving us towards a denim net-positive future.
As product level action, we are using life cycle assessment (LCA) methodology to calculate the global warming potential, which indicates climate change impact of our fabrics starting from the raw material production. With this methodology, we assess the contribution of every input and output of our fabrics, detect hot spots for improvement and act on improvement.
At Orta, when we are developing a product or a system, we consider the whole life cycle of it from a holistic point of view. We do not only look at the environmental benefit of this new creation to Orta but also consider its impact on our supply chain, on our customers and the consumers who will wear them. That is why we greatly value the power of LCA here. For more than four years now, we assess every newly developed fabric’s potential environmental impact via LCA and share the data through QR codes on product hangtags. We also do this assessment for every new fiber, chemical usages as well as major energy efficiency projects to assess the reflection of our sustainability initiatives to our product’s environmental footprint. When we do research for a new fiber, while we examine its physical properties and performance on one hand, we also look into its environmental impact, check for its carbon footprint and simulate its usage in our designs via LCA to see how it affects our fabrics’ impacts. That is why we greatly value working with Lenzing, who offers us low-impact solutions compared to generic regenerated cellulosic and transparently shares its products environmental footprint.
Besides climate change, with LCA we also assess water use, eutrophication potential indicating water pollution, abiotic depletion indicating non-renewable resource consumption and land use, which all indirectly affect climate change.
At Orta, we envision a denim future that goes beyond a circular economy to a view of infinite possibilities: where collaboration is enabled in every step from the farm to one’s fashion closet, where eco-technology helps us to use less natural resources, while creating more abundance, and where denim leads fashion’s leadership in climate action and build a waste-free denim ecosystem that enables a longer, healthier life for us and the planet.
TUSA DENIM
Aykut Çam, deputy general manager
Carved in Blue: Could you give an overview of your latest collections that include TENCEL™ fibers including REFIBRA™ technology?
Aykut: As Tusa group, we constantly use Lenzing’s TENCEL™, modal and viscose fibers.
In the collection where we use these fibers of Lenzing, we make a line called “Soft Tissue.”
We are planning to exhibit it at the Berlin Denim PV fair on May 17-18. We are planning to present a strong collection (I mean the whole collection) at the Denim PV fair.
Carved in Blue: Are you currently incorporating TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology or matte TENCEL™ into your denim?
Aykut: We will use REIBRA™ technology together with TENCEL™ lyocell. We plan to use the TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology in the same way. In addition, we will order carbon-zero TENCEL™ fiber. We are planning to introduce this line in Berlin.
We are planning to combine this line with REFIBRA™, TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology and carbon-zero TENCEL™ in our next collection.
Carved in Blue: What top three things is your mill doing to combat climate change?
Aykut: In answer to your question, I think that our “From the Nature” line in our new collection will be enough for this. For this line we used indigo waterless dye, waterless finish in finishing and super ecologic finish, which is organic, waterless dye and waterless finish, combined with less chemical, energy and steam.