Mill Memo: Pakistan Producers Share How They Use TENCEL™, Part 2

Mills

Apr 12, 2023

Over the years, it has become easier to find denim fabrics containing TENCEL™ Lyocell or Modal as mills scale up their use of these fibers to meet sustainability, design or performance characteristics.

Adding TENCEL™ to denim creates textiles that are soft and comfortable, with a smaller ecological impact. The fibers can also create a variety of looks—from a subtle sheen to matte and slubby.

Carved in Blue connected with mills in Pakistan to discuss how they are using TENCEL™ and what to expect from their upcoming lines. Read on to hear from Kassim, Naveena Denim Limited, Naveena Denim Mills, Soorty and US Denim.

KASSIM

Imtiaz Ishaq, director marketing

Carved in Blue: Could you briefly describe your latest collections that feature TENCEL™ fibers?

Imtiaz: Our TENCEL™ Modal collection in collaboration with Lenzing adds value in our product portfolio in numerous ways like reducing significant carbon footprints, circularity, sustainability, breathability, etc. by using TENCEL™ Modal Black, REFIBRA™ and TENCEL™ Lyocell and Modal.

Carved in Blue: When did you first use TENCEL™ in commercial collections? And how has your use of TENCEL™ changed since then?

Imtiaz: Initially the TENCEL™ was used mostly in lightweights for tops to get a soft and drapey look. Kassim first used TENCEL™ almost 15 years back for a premium tops program for a renowned U.S. brand. Fashion has evolved drastically since then. Now with more focus on softness in bottoms, TENCEL™ is playing a key role to meet consumer expectations.

Carved in Blue: What top trends do you see for denim in the upcoming Fall/Winter 24-25 season? How can brands and garment manufacturers use your TENCEL™ collections to create designs fitting these trends?

Imtiaz: Loose and light fits are quite popular with authentic look and drapey feel. So, the use of TENCEL™ plays a pivotal role to cater to these needs. Sustainability and circularity are the key for all the brands, and to achieve this TENCEL™ plays a vital role.

NAVEENA DENIM LIMITED (NDL)

Rashid Iqbal, executive director

Carved in Blue: Could you briefly describe your latest collections that feature TENCEL™ fibers?

Rashid: NDL has developed amazing fabrics and conceptual collections with TENCEL™. Our latest collection Swift n’ Sway is another amazing collaboration with Lenzing, an ultimate denim experience like never before. Designed to perform, Swift n’ Sway is a natural performing denim concept that boasts the natural absorbency and moisture wicking in the denims without compromising on the authentic denim look and natural hand feel. All the fabrics were tried and tested on different levels of washing to assure the moisture management in denims, making them more than just a pair of jeans. Don’t miss out on the chance to see our exclusive collection at Kingpins Amsterdam 2023.

Carved in Blue: When did you first use TENCEL™ in commercial collections? And how has your use of TENCEL™ changed since then?

Rashid: TENCEL™ has been an integral part of our fabric compositions for several years now. All our collections with TENCEL™ have been widely appreciated and embraced by our valued customers, like Bast Recast. We have exclusively designed a commercial TENCEL™ collection as a core program for a well-known brand.

Our use of TENCEL™ has evolved over the years as we’ve become more focused on sustainable and eco-friendly manufacturing. While we originally designed a TENCEL™ collection to achieve softness in denim while maintaining authenticity, we now prioritize using TENCEL™ as a functional and sustainable fiber to reduce our environmental impact. We’re committed to continuing our partnership with TENCEL™ and exploring new ways to incorporate sustainable fibers into our fabric compositions.

Rashid: Fall/Winter 24-25 is all about circularity, sustainable solutions and innovating new colors in denim with a diluted focus on indigo. Fifty Shades of Grey by NDL explores a new dimension of imagination with undiscovered hues of the color grey, ranging from muted tones to deeper shades and undertones of grey.

As conscious consumers demand more from their denim, functionality has also emerged as a key trend. Today’s discerning denim enthusiasts seek jeans that are not only sustainable, but also practical. In response, leading brands have started to shift from conventional, petroleum-based fibers to a range of natural and eco-friendly alternatives that meet the demands of modern lifestyles.

Our partnership with the German brand Tom Tailor, featuring hemp and TENCEL™, represents a pioneering approach to sustainability and innovation in the fashion industry. It showcases the use of eco-friendly and naturally sourced materials, setting a new standard for sustainable denim production.

NAVEENA DENIM MILLS (NDM)

Berke Aydemir, head of research & development and technical sales

Carved in Blue: Could you briefly describe your latest collections that feature TENCEL™ fibers?

Berke: We use TENCEL™ fibers mostly in our Retrosoft collection, which offers fabrics with an authentic and marble look with a super soft touch. We produce, though, mostly products with 15-20 percent and 25-30 percent elasticity.

Carved in Blue: When did you first use TENCEL™ in commercial collections? And how has your use of TENCEL™ changed since then?

Berke: We have been using TENCEL™ in commercial collections since five years ago, adding more and more products every year. We use TENCEL™ at every opportunity in our collections, from rigid to high elasticity fabrics, sometimes with other sustainable fibers such as hemp.

Berke: We observe an increasing softness demand in the market, as well as looser fits and an authentic denim look. Sustainability, of course, is an ever-present trend. TENCEL™ fibers address all these trends at the same time, with many sustainability and fashion benefits.

SOORTY

Eda Dikmen, marketing and communications manager

Carved in Blue: Could you briefly describe your latest collections that feature TENCEL™ fibers?

Eda: At Kingpins Amsterdam we’re launching our new collection, Looking Back to Go Forward. As the name might suggest, it looks closely into how denim evolved with humanity and culture over time, with an emphasis on heritage, ownership and innovation. So in a way, we crafted a story with our fabrics that references the past, today and the future of our wardrobes. We have three main concepts, all of which contain fabrics woven with TENCEL™ fibers. We have cotton-free articles made with a blend of TENCEL™ and ECOVERO™, other blends of TENCEL™ with materials like hemp, cotton, recycled poly and more, each designed with purpose with a focus on wear comfort, performance and durability.

A fabric to highlight with TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology from the collection is Milla Lurid Blue, which has 3D textures as a result of its special weave design and brings together conscious materials TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology, TENCEL™ Lyocell, natural hemp and cotton. Another one could be Ivy, woven with cotton and TENCEL™ Lyocell. We’re using Ivy as a canvas in a creative collaboration we’re thrilled to launch, also in Amsterdam. Soorty x ORNMNTNCRM used artificial intelligence tools to explore, both virtual and IRL, the infinite possibilities of denim. The goal was emphasizing the value of humans working together with AI; we’ve experimented with how technology and fashion can go hand-in-hand via forward-thinking design solutions. It was all reverse engineering here—you first see the design and then go back when realizing the look—so we made a selection from the AI-generated designs and saw that they called for an authentic character and a premium look fabric that still has some drape. That’s why we selected Ivy.

Carved in Blue: When did you first use TENCEL™ in commercial collections? And how has your use of TENCEL™ changed since then?

Eda: We first used TENCEL™ in March 2009 in a 100 percent TENCEL™ product—10 oz. and 2×1—for the shirting we were weaving to be used in a concept similar to loungewear. It was actually TENCEL™ LF and not very easy to control during the production. Initially the fiber was approached as a premium product and was considered only by premium brands, however, in time it became more or less a commodity in denim. Today we use it in most of our products. Its added values in terms of functionality, wear comfort and durability were well received, and it is now the main choice for most of the brands.

Eda: It is fascinating to decode forecasts that are integral to our cultural history, global trends and influences. A/W 24-25 is full of those that’ll drive consumers with a focus on creativity, well-being, societies and environment as well as technology.

I’d say first comes our personal connectivity to the earth and societies. Following all the global crisis we’ve been having, emotions surrounding caring for the planet and one other, and making conscious choices are at peak and they influence the way we dress. Owning what we already have, making use of what was once considered to be old or waste, reusing and repurposing are on the rise. When it comes to buying something new, this connection reflects as either secondhand clothing or products that call for authenticity, quiet luxury and the return of classics. An increased amount of recycled fiber content is being demanded, as well as transparency and traceability, knowing the true origins of what goes into our clothes. They all reflect to the color choices too. Over the constant hunger for newness, this is an area of timeless classics remade, durable and easy to care for, with absolute minimal impact. We’ve tapped this focus on sustainability, minimalism and a simplistic approach towards life deeply in our collection.

The second is fueled with creativity, bringing us closer to outer space driven by the need for escapism from reality. As a byproduct, the world is rapidly becoming digital and blurring the line between physical and virtual reality. The industry’s biggest brands have entered the metaverse. As Soorty we’ve been exploring ways to merge fashion and technology for a long while now with multiple offers—both as products and services we provide to our customers. The HumAIn collection I mentioned above is our latest step into this area, while we embraced future-proof designs in our main collection too, especially in our third main container, allowing our imagination to run wild with newly designed colors, processes, materials and blends that communicate the origins of the universe.

We also see a celebration of darkness, which comes off as gothic shades and silhouettes as well as “underground sentiments” which was reflected not only in a wide range of black shades made responsibly, but also silhouettes that speak for it. Black Theory is our new innovative and responsible over-dye process which enhances the black dye intake and gives the fabric surface sheen. It is a responsible over dye for a luxurious sheen feel, improved color pick up and rich black color.

Then comes the part which connects all the dots. Accepting climate change and seasons blurring as our reality, for a while now we’ve been focusing on seasonless collections. We aim to improve our social and environmental impact every single day by continuously investing in more conscious ways of doing things—from the latest technology machinery setup to design for purpose. And this reflects as trans-seasonal products that are relevant all year long with a long-term appeal. Longevity and improved strength play a key role here, and while we’ve expanded our range of fabrics that speak for durability, we also developed our concept EverFit for jeans that fit like the first time every time thanks to their high performance and low growth. As one of the main goals is to embrace the ownership towards our wardrobes, wear comfort was another point we tapped into. EverComfort is Soorty’s science of comfort engineered for an ultimate feeling in high-performance jeans, without the use of elastane.

TENCEL™ fibers were utilized in many articles through our collection, providing attributes as ease of wear and care, durability, authentic character and soft hand feel.

US DENIM

Tariq Umer Wahga, deputy manager business development

Carved in Blue: Could you briefly describe your latest collections that feature TENCEL™ fibers?

Tariq: We are developing some new products in two directions. First is with TENCEL™ and matte TENCEL™ with ECOVERO™ blends. Our main focus is to make cotton-free fabrics using these premium blends, and the second one is we are blending ECOVERO™ with cotton to give a premium hand feel along with the jeans-y looks.

Carved in Blue: When did you first use TENCEL™ in commercial collections? And how has your use of TENCEL™ changed since then?

Tariq: We are using TENCEL™ over a decade approximately now. The difference that we feel from then and now is it’s more utilized in commercial fabrics in comparison to only for the wow factor.

Tariq: We are seeing TENCEL™ as a major component specially in authentic denim fabrics with marbling crunch character with a looks heavy, feels light concept.

For upcoming seasons, you see circularity is the next frontier and these regenerated fibers will be the gem in the crown. Also cotton will not be able to sustain the pressure of the transparent supply chain, so these regenerated fibers will be the key focus.