Mills Update: Pakistan Producers on Sustainability and Trending Styles
Over the past few years, the denim industry has had ups and downs as consumer and market demand ebbs and flows.
With the first half of the year in the rearview, Carved in Blue is checking in with denim mills to get their take on how 2024 is shaping up. Are sales rising or falling? What is driving demand? Which trends are taking off? And how are they addressing market needs? Read on to hear insights from AGI Denim, Kassim and Naveena Denim.
AGI DENIM
Abid Saboor, general manager marketing
Carved in Blue: Has the first half of 2024 been up, down, or flat for your company?
Abid: The first half of 2024 has been strong for AGI Denim, with our denim fabric business experiencing robust growth compared to the same period in 2023. Despite significant challenges such as rising utility costs and fluctuating raw material prices, our commitment to innovation and sustainability has driven this upward momentum.
Our teams successfully executed the strategies discussed during last year’s town hall meetings with our leadership. We targeted key areas and markets where we identified strong potential and actively engaged with our customers to secure specific programs.
Additionally, brands have optimized their strategies to connect more effectively with end consumers, which has further contributed to our increased sales.
Carved in Blue: How would you describe the current demand, and has it changed in recent months?
Abid: Demand has surged, with consumers increasingly prioritizing sustainable and eco-friendly denim products. Brands are becoming more aware of their environmental impact, which is directly influencing their sourcing choices. Over the past few months, we’ve seen a significant rise in inquiries for organic cotton, recycled materials and low-impact dyeing processes, reflecting this growing emphasis on sustainability.
Carved in Blue: What has surprised you the most about 2024 so far?
Abid: Design teams have introduced special fibers into their assortments. Fibers like TENCEL™ Lyocell, linen, Circulose, and LENZING™ ECOVERO™ Viscose are very much in demand. Usually, we always see these as novelties but now we are seeing them in big programs for different customers.
Carved in Blue: Which trends or styles do you see gaining traction, and how are you building fabrics to suit these looks?
Abid: Loose fits, vintage-inspired washes, and comfort-driven designs are gaining significant traction. We’re focusing on creating fabrics that offer versatility—soft, lightweight denim with authentic textures and stretchability to meet these demands.
Our R&D team is also working on incorporating natural dyes and innovative finishes to align with the market’s growing preference for eco-friendly solutions.
Carved in Blue: Could you describe your latest collection launches?
Abid: Our latest collection features alternative casts and bold contrast looks, designed to stand out. We’ve introduced lightweight, drapey rigid fabrics, blended with special fibers such as linen and TENCEL™ for added comfort and style. The collection also showcases unique weaves and surfaces, including neps, plaids, stripes and intricate weave designs. Additionally, we’ve focused on high-stretch fabrics that offer excellent recovery, ensuring both fit and durability.
Carved in Blue: What are your predictions for the second half of 2024?
Abid: We anticipate continued growth in the demand for sustainable and ethical denim, and we’re optimistic about a recovery in the global market. Brands are likely to prioritize transparency and traceability within their supply chains, and AGI Denim is well-prepared to support this shift. In addition, we’ve already shared our expansion plans with our strategic clients. We foresee further consolidation within the industry, with collaborations and partnerships becoming increasingly important as brands navigate the challenges ahead.
KASSIM
Imtiaz Ishaq, director of marketing
Carved in Blue: Has the first half of 2024 been up, down, or flat for your company?
Imtiaz: If you talk about the growth, then the first half of 2024 has been positive for Kassim Denim, driven by strong demand in both existing and new markets. Contributing factors include our focus on market trends and product development, which have resonated well with our customers, particularly in the premium and eco-conscious segments. Additionally, our strategic partnerships and presence at global exhibitions have helped us expand our reach.
Carved in Blue: How would you describe the current demand, and has it changed in recent months?
Imtiaz: The current demand for denim is stable but evolving. In recent months, we’ve noticed a shift towards more versatile and sustainable fabrics as consumers and brands prioritize both comfort and environmental responsibility. This change is driving demand for products like TENCEL™ blends, regenerative cotton, bio-based materials and recycled denim, which we are actively developing and marketing. Also, we’ve observed an increased demand for coated fabrics, particularly those with a thin layer that provides durability while maintaining a sleek, polished appearance
Carved in Blue: What has surprised you the most about 2024 so far?
Imtiaz: What has surprised me most about 2024 is the rapid adoption of sustainable practices by mainstream brands and how quickly market dynamics in South Asia can shift. We’ve observed a temporary shift in business from Bangladesh to Pakistan due to political challenges. However, such fluctuations are not uncommon, as business often moves between the regions depending on circumstances. While this has brought opportunities for growth in Pakistan, it also highlighted our limitations in garment manufacturing capacity and the need to address energy supply issues to fully capitalize on this opportunity.
Carved in Blue: Which trends or styles do you see gaining traction, and how are you building fabrics to suit these looks?
Imtiaz: There’s a continued trend towards relaxed, oversized silhouettes and textured fabrics. To cater to this trend, we’re developing fabrics with more character, such as shrink-to-fit articles and those with unique wash-down effects. Additionally, the demand for natural and earthy tones, including green cast shades, is rising, prompting us to focus on creating consistent, production-friendly options that meet these needs.
Carved in Blue: Could you describe your latest collection launches?
Imtiaz: Our latest collection is centered around sustainability and current market trends. We’ve focused on developing eco-friendly fabrics that align with the growing demand for sustainable solutions. The collection features new shade developments and fabrics designed for easy wash-downs, ensuring they meet both aesthetic and functional needs. Each piece reflects our commitment to innovation and sustainability while addressing the evolving preferences of our customers.
Carved in Blue: What are your predictions for the second half?
Imtiaz: For the second half of 2024, I anticipate continued growth in the denim industry, particularly in Pakistan, as the market shifts further towards our region due to challenges in other parts of South Asia. The demand for sustainable and innovative practices will only increase, with transparency becoming a key expectation from both brands and consumers. Additionally, I foresee a rise in collaborations between denim manufacturers and tech companies, leading to the development of smarter, more adaptive fabrics.
NAVEENA DENIM (NDL)
Rashid Iqbal, executive director
Carved in Blue: Has the first half of 2024 been up, down, or flat for your company?
Rashid: The first half of 2024 has been quite stable for us since we are running core programs with our partners in Europe and the U.S. This partnership with brands has ensured consistent demand, with no significant fluctuations in numbers or quantities. This stability has been key in helping us maintain our strong foothold in the market.
Carved in Blue: How would you describe the current demand, and has it changed in recent months?
Rashid: As I mentioned earlier, our role as a core supplier has ensured a consistent fabric forecast, thanks to our strong partnerships with the brands. However, we’re noticing a shift as brands are now aiming to streamline their supply chains by sourcing both fabric and garments from the same region. This focus on verticality may lead to changes in the industry as brands adapt to this new approach.
Carved in Blue: What has surprised you the most about 2024 so far?
Rashid: What truly surprised us in 2024 is how swiftly the denim industry has embraced sustainability. The rapid adoption of eco-friendly practices by both brands and consumers has been remarkable. However, this momentum has brought significant cost challenges. The industry is now grappling with the demand for high-quality, sustainable fibers, while also managing the pressure to keep costs neutral. Balancing sustainability with the cost-neutral demand has become a key challenge.
Carved in Blue: Which trends or styles do you see gaining traction, and how are you building fabrics to suit these looks?
Rashid: Denim fashion trends are currently leaning towards vintage and classic styles, with a resurgence of wide-leg cuts and loose fits. This shift aligns with the growing demand for individuality and comfort—particularly among Gen Z, who favor minimalistic, relaxed fits that reflect their eco-conscious values, while millennials and baby boomers are leaning towards timeless styles with vintage washes.
To meet these evolving trends, we’re focused on developing fabrics that not only embody these diverse style preferences but also incorporate sustainable practices. By blending classic and contemporary looks with eco-friendly fibers coming from our partner Lenzing, we ensure our denim not only captures the essence of these styles but is also environmentally friendly.
Carved in Blue: Could you describe your latest collection launches?
Rashid: We’re thrilled to share our latest innovation with you. Introducing Aero-soft technology—a true game-changer in denim. We’ve developed a unique spinning technique that achieves incredible softness, airiness and breathability while staying true to our sustainability goals. This approach harnesses the natural properties of cotton, allowing us to deliver luxury and comfort without relying on alternative materials.
Aero-soft technology subtly enhances the fabric’s bulkiness, improving moisture absorbency and air permeability. The result is a fabric that looks heavier yet feels light and airy, providing a plush feel that’s soft on your skin.
We’re excited to unveil this breakthrough at the upcoming Kingpins Show in Amsterdam, and we’d love for you to join us to explore how our innovation is naturally softening denim like never before.
Carved in Blue: What are your predictions for the second half?
Rashid: Sustainability will be the central theme in the latter half of 2024. Brands will intensify their commitment to eco-friendly materials and zero-waste practices. We can expect significant advancements in sustainable denim production, with an emphasis on circular economy principles and reduced environmental impact. European legislation will play a crucial role in this shift. New regulations, such as the EU Textile Strategy and the Eco-design for Sustainable Products Regulation, are setting higher standards for materials and production processes. These laws promote the use of sustainable fibers, safer chemicals, and improved recyclability. As legislation evolves, it will further drive the industry’s commitment to greener practices and reduced environmental impact.