Nece Gene Does Circular Denim with High-Fashion Design
As the denim industry makes a push away from linear and wasteful models and toward circular solutions, much of the focus has been on recycling material into new textiles. But Indian label Nece Gene is taking a different approach to reusing excess denim.
Nece Gene founder Neha Celly takes scrap material from Arvind Mills and turns it into couture creations. Denim cut waste is transformed into indigo “fur” or frayed to create accents on garments.
Expanding circular denim into categories beyond clothing, Nece Gene has taken denim strips and turned them into bricks using a bio epoxy. The hardened form of the textiles, which Neha calls “DeBricks,” is then used to create products such as stool seats or necklace pendants. Denim scraps are also turned into pulp to make paper for books.
Nece Gene, whose name comes from the word “necessary,” launched in 2020 and presented its first collection during the digital Helsinki fashion show. Coming up in 2021, the brand is planning to stage its first physical show.
Neha spoke to Carved in Blue about the idea for her label, her background in denim and what’s next for Nece Gene.
Carved in Blue: Could you share the backstory behind Nece Gene?
Neha: Having worked with denim mills and brands for many years, I know that the beautiful denim comes with a downside too.
In the denim industry, waste or discard is seen at every stage: cutting, stitching, washing, extra productions, etc. The idea behind Nece Gene is to use all this big and small waste and make aesthetic products out of it, diverting all this waste from landfills. In my years of working, I did my research on how the industry impact could be reduced: Producing less and strictly as per demand and using all that’s created is the best way to be a sustainable and fully circular brand. I hence collaborated with the prestigious Arvind Mills to start a 100 percent sustainable brand called Nece Gene.
Carved in Blue: Why did you decide to specifically target denim waste rather than other leftover textiles?
Neha: My industry experience has been focused on denim since my first job. I love the way the fabric goes through so many processes before coming out on a jean. I’ve been consulting many mills and brands as a denim expert too, so it was only natural for me to look at my area of expertise. Going forward, though, I plan to use other wastes too to make the product more interesting. For example, in one of the pieces, denim scrap with waste newspaper has been re-woven to make a new material.
Carved in Blue: Nece Gene takes a couture approach to denim reuse. From your perspective, what is the importance of creative design when it comes to developing circular garments?
Neha: I have come across many beautiful sustainable brands that have great looking products. But for me, these would all be classic, cleaner styles. For Nece Gene, I specifically wanted to cater to the couture market by making flamboyant denim pieces. As a brand, I’d like to be known for a strong design first and then sustainability. My job is done when people choose my couture for its designs over the non-sustainable couture options available in the market.
Carved in Blue: How did your collaboration with Arvind Mills come about? What has been the impact of having Arvind as your partner?
Neha: Arvind Mills is one of the most sustainable factories in the world. They use zero fresh water in the whole jean making process—yarn to garment. They treat the wastewater into usable water for denim manufacturing and after their use, they treat it again into usable clean water to be used by nearby places. Working with them as a consultant, I knew about their highly sustainable journey and that we could create something great together. Hence, Nece Gene was born. Having Arvind mills on my side is a big help in numerous ways. All the material/ discards come to me from the mill, which gets segregated, stitched and washed in their garmenting facility. More than logistics, it’s this mutual association and collaboration which we both highly value.
Carved in Blue: You’ve created some lifestyle goods with denim, such as furniture and paper, to further reduce waste. What other product categories are you eyeing for recycled denim creations?
Neha: Denim being a ubiquitous product can be used in a lot of products without giving away its beautiful aesthetics. Furniture is still at a very nascent stage; the idea is to dig deeper in that category. Imagine a whole denim showroom made with our DeBricks! Also, with DeBricks, small lifestyle office products, jewelry, etc. is being looked at.
Carved in Blue: Nece Gene launched last year in the middle of the pandemic. How have you been marketing and showcasing the first collection in today’s new normal?
Neha: Last year, Nece Gene’s digital collection was launched, wherein one could wear a piece in the digital space, without physically owning or wearing it. This concept took off well, and in January 2021, we launched the physical collection on the website. Due to pandemic, we had to postpone the collection stitching and hence the delay in the launch. The good news is, the pandemic has brought a new wave of consciousness where people are looking for recycled and waste-free products. And a brand like ours, where design is the key focus, while being sustainable, I think we’re in the right place.
Carved in Blue: What is next for Nece Gene?
Neha: Currently, the brand is focusing on couture and avant-garde products made all out of denim waste. To gain scalability or to use large volumes of available waste, we’d have to enter the basics market, too. The idea really is to design out all the waste that’s created, one mill at a time.