Next-Gen Denim: Shirley Zheng
Denim’s potential and possibility truly comes alive when we see how fearless young designers can use the fabric as their canvas.
In our new series that highlights denim’s up-and-comers, we talk with Shirley Zheng, who over a short time has had a career spanning USA and Europe with J Brand, WGSN, Guess and most recently at House of Gold. She connects the use of technology to drive new innovation, and the responsibility of approaching the design process with circularity in mind.
She also shares her feelings on the importance of altering the stigma associated with working with factories and mills in China, as well as calling out the mass mindset migration that’s needed.
Carved in Blue: What does the next generation bring to denim that maybe previous generations haven’t?
Shirley: The next generation will integrate new innovations in technology into every step of the product lifecycle, from inception of design to shipping direct-to-consumer. For the designers and product developers, there have been many technological innovations that save time and cut down waste.
One that I’m currently working on is Backbone PLM, and it has drastically sped up the tech pack process for me. Another software I’m teaching myself is how to do 3D design through CLO; this program allows for a virtual garment realization. The fourth industrial revolution is coming without a doubt, and it’s up to the next generation to evolve current working methods to be able to adapt to the future.
Carved in Blue: What should be the approach today for those designing and making denim? What types of things should they be considering?
Shirley: Designers should always approach a new design with circularity in mind. Think about what already exists and how to incorporate those resources into your designs. For each detail on a pair of jeans, there is always a more responsible choice. Always opt for recycled fibers instead of virgin fibers. Ask for alternate materials instead of leather for your trims — things like fruit leathers, cork leather, jacron, etc.
Be informed about what kinds of chemicals are used on metal finishes, and choose one that is the least harmful to the environment. Request that your packaging is from recycled materials, and say no to polyester bags.
Basically, it’s looking at every component that makes up a pair of jeans and choosing to design it as ethically as possible.
Carved in Blue: In your opinion, what is the denim industry in desperate need of?
Shirley: Our industry is in need of a mass mindset migration. We are caught in between the old and new ways of working, and it puts us at a standstill. Of course, with new technology comes new fears and failures, but also vast potential and opportunity for growth.
The industry needs to come together and come up with a collective plan on how to push innovations forward for all. We really need to work together, and evolve the old ways of thinking.
Carved in Blue: What’s one thing in the old world of denim that we’d do best to leave in the past?
Shirley: One thing to leave in the past is physical sampling. I know this is a bit hypocritical in denim, especially because I love to touch and feel my samples before making a decision. However, there are so many programs out there that give you detailed and realistic digital samples, so you can avoid over-sampling in the development process.
This is specifically true for wash, an area we are all familiar with, where you send out garments with wash comments over and over again. It would be great if we can do these types of decisions digitally to avoid waste in sampling.
Carved in Blue: Where do you see yourself in 10 years from now?
Shirley: I hope to change the stigma that is associated with China, and the assumptions made when working with Chinese factories or mills. I worked at House of Gold with two Chinese mills (Blue Diamond / In The Loop), and developing a lot of original innovations. As a Chinese immigrant, I’m really proud to be working with these mills, and to help elevate their status in the industry to be a leader in innovation.
Of course this all takes time, especially to change the mentality of how things work in China. In 10 years, I want to be working on (or be leading) an innovation that will transform China’s position in the industry.
What’s your first denim memory?
Shirley: It was sometime in middle school, and I remember all the popular girls had a pair of the A-pocket jeans from 7FAM. I was probably wearing jeans from Hollister or Delia’s at that point, and didn’t really understand why the 7FAM jeans were so expensive. I begged my mom to buy them for me, because all I wanted was to fit in as a teenager. I’ve been hooked on premium denim ever since, although at a much more affordable lifestyle since I discovered sample sales.
Carved in Blue: What do you love most about denim?
Shirley: Denim has infinite possibilities when it comes to design and innovation. There is a vast amount of detail when you look at just a pair of jeans, and if you alter just one component you get an entirely different end result. The same pair of jeans made with 100% cotton is extremely different when made with 100 percent TENCELTM Lyocell. Changing a fit from a low-rise to a high-rise can be the dealbreaker between flattering and not.
There are so many ingredients you get to play with when it comes to denim, and that’s why I love it the most.
Carved in Blue: Where do you turn for denim inspiration? What helps you keep your perspective fresh?
Shirley: This might be a strange answer, but I often find myself being the most creative while exercising. Maybe it’s from all those endorphins working, but my brain is really able to focus when I’m unplugged, almost like I can think freely without distraction.
Whenever I’m looking for inspiration, I need to be around nature. Amsterdam has beautiful parks; I can easily spend hours at Westerpark and feel inspired. I try to take a nature trip once a month to keep my perspective fresh.
Carved in Blue: What does Carved in Blue mean to you?
Shirley: Carved in Blue means we all get the chance to write our own denim history. We get to make an impression on planet Earth, so let’s make it a beautiful one.