SDW22 Lookbook: Coat 1
The classic belted coat is an iconic piece of clothing that has been interpreted so many times over the years. In our Simple Pleasures collection, we are still finding new ways to update this icon.
The style that is a part of fashion history goes from one of the most iconic pieces of military uniform, to one of the most iconic pieces in fashion: the trench coat.
What became famous for Army officers’ attire in the First World War later became the symbol of business-like respectability. Even so, the story of the trench coat starts roughly 100 years before the outbreak of World War I.
As early as 1823, rubberized cotton was being used in weatherproof outerwear for both civilian and military use. These “macs,” named for their inventor Charles Macintosh, were great at keeping rain out, but equally—and unfortunately—great at keeping sweat in.
Two names loom large in the history of the trench coat, with both laying claim to having invented the garment. The truth probably lies somewhere in between. In 1853, Mayfair gentlemen’s clothier John Emary developed and patented a water-repellent fabric, which managed to get around the unpleasant smell associated with the finish on the macs. Later renaming his company “Aquascutum”—from the Latin “aqua,” meaning “water,” and “scutum,” meaning “shield”—to reflect its focus on designing wet weather gear for the gentry.
In 1879, Hampshire’s Thomas Burberry developed gabardine, a tightly woven, water-repellent cloth which was later used for the forerunner of the trench coat, the Tielocken.
The coats were first used in the Boer War in 1895. Following that, Burberry developed them further and supplied about half a million during World War I.
Fast forward to today, and the trench coat continues to be a fashion staple and an iconic garment that can be seen almost every year on catwalks all over the world. Burberry continues to be the leader in trench coat production, creating styles for men and women that evoke a sense of fashion know-how and impeccable taste.
Certain features remain ever popular: the wide lapels, epaulettes, large pockets and belted waist. Our coat features an innovative fabric from Bossa Denim based around TENCEL™ Lyocell, Modal and elastane.
The garment finish features an eco-tie bleach using Jeanologia’s eFlow, a technology based on nano-bubbles of air that act as a carrier to transmit chemicals into a garment with minimal quantity of water and zero discharge. The resultant look is a classic coat that traverses from sartorialism to casual.
Fabric: Raisa | Mill: Bossa
Composition: 71% cotton, 25% TENCEL™ Modal, 4% elastane
Weave: Fancy | 11.25 oz.
LSF score: 49
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