Slow Fashion Movement Campaign Investigates Denim’s Impact
Most consumers have jeans sitting in their closets, but how much do shoppers truly know about the production process behind this wardrobe staple?
A new campaign from the Slow Fashion Movement aims to educate those outside the fashion industry about the denim supply chain. Kicking off April 5 and running through May 2, the #KnowYourJeans content series will cover the current social and environmental costs of jeans, using happy and sad jean cartoon characters to personify different consumption choices.
Over the next four weeks, the organization will focus on different steps in manufacturing—from raw materials to weaving, dyeing, cut and sew and finishing. The examination of the total footprint of denim continues with retail and post-consumer ownership, as shoppers wash and eventually dispose of their jeans.
TENCEL™ is proud to be a part of the #KnowYourJeans campaign. As the event kicks off, Carved in Blue spoke with Cynthia Ko, campaigns coordinator at Slow Fashion Movement and co-founder of Slow Fashion UK, to hear how SFM is getting consumers to rethink denim.
Carved in Blue: Why is there a need to educate consumers on the impact of their denim purchases in particular? What don’t shoppers know about their jeans?
Cynthia: Denim in itself has an interesting history and cultural impact. The name “denim” comes from a sturdy fabric called “serge de Nîmes,” which was made in Nîmes, France. Its use, however, boomed with the popularity of western wear in 19th century Western America. Today, denim jeans are a global staple piece. It’s such a “standard” item that many of us may forget about the work that goes into it.
The classic blue color of jeans is usually achieved through a synthetic dye that pollutes rivers and uses extensive water. The vintage faded look or trendier ripped jeans look are so consistently designed that consumers don’t even think about the possibility that jeans could be different.
These looks require a lot of labor, yet garment workers are not treated fairly. We think it’s important that consumers don’t take such an everyday piece of clothing for granted. It’s a piece of clothing that impacts both the planet and its people.
Carved in Blue: The campaign focuses on sad jeans and happy jeans. How would you describe the happiest jeans you can imagine?
Cynthia: Happy jeans are made in a socially and environmentally sustainable way throughout the whole supply chain. What this means is that the materials of these happy jeans don’t negatively impact our water, air, earth and its people. Happy jeans would therefore be made from sustainable materials, rather than the typical water-intensive cotton that’s used nowadays. Moving further down the supply chain (from threading to production to finishing), everything will be done using renewable energy, natural dyes and regenerative materials. The garment workers were treated fairly during this whole process, which means: paid labor, fair pay, safe working circumstances (i.e. no toxic environment), and no sexual abuse.
When happy jeans land in the hands of consumers, they are loved for many years to come and repaired when necessary. Once they are not fit for purpose anymore, happy jeans are passed on to the next owner, hopefully staying in the natural loop for many years to come!
Carved in Blue: Why are jeans a good fit for slow fashion, and how can designers produce styles with more longevity?
Cynthia: Jeans are easy to mix and match. They’re practical, appropriate for various weather circumstances, and generally it doesn’t matter what style or color your top is, it will match with a pair of jeans. We need to design our jeans in a way that make them sturdy, easy to repair and easy to match. A lot of this can be achieved through the philosophy of timeless design.
Carved in Blue: What will it take to remake denim supply chains for the better? What is the progress report for denim sustainability?
Cynthia: We need to focus on replacing cotton for a more sustainable alternative, using non-toxic dyes that don’t require as much energy or water usage, and think about the denim’s use plus end of life. These are the most harmful supply chain phases that need environmental attention. At the same time, the whole industry requires more transparency, collaboration and a heart for humans. Much of this requires turning the current linear business models upside down, into a circular business model where all stakeholders are equipped to take environmental and social responsibility.
Carved in Blue: How will it impact #KnowYourJeans to have industry partners like Lenzing involved?
Cynthia: At Slow Fashion Movement, we believe in the power of the people. Consumers shouldn’t be the only ones to change—the industry needs to take its steps too. Lenzing is a good example of showing what the industry can do differently. We need to empower people at both ends of the supply chain, whether you’re a producer or consumer, a sense of faith and confidence has to be cultivated from both sides. It takes two to tango; having industry partners involved serves as a beacon of light to guide change.
Carved in Blue: What does Carved in Blue mean to you?
Cynthia: It makes me think of the wood pulp that’s used in Tencel Lyocell. Beyond its sustainable technicalities, I think it has something poetic to it. In a way, thinking of jeans as being “carved” rather than produced makes it sound like much more thought went into it. This is how we should treat the production of anything we put on the consumer market. A lot of thought and reflection goes into carving, and your blog shows this.