The Sustainable Angle Looks to Shift Denim’s Ethos
Sustainability is very clearly becoming the new black when it comes to fashion, and innovators in the denim space are each playing their role to lower the favored fabric’s impact on the environment.
That’s the very mission that brought The Sustainable Angle about. The U.K.-based not for profit organization starts and supports projects that contribute to cutting back on the apparel industry’s impact on the environment and the people that live within it. They also work to make sure companies can’t claim to avoid sustainability because they didn’t know how to address it—The Sustainable Angle helps companies make better decisions by showing them what else is available out there that’s going to be better for the environment.
For Nina Marenzi, director and founder of The Sustainable Angle, leading that change seems to come as second nature, as her passion for uncovering less impactful options is evident in everything she does.
Carved in Blue spent some time talking to Nina to find out more about The Sustainable Angle’s mission and what a more eco-friendly denim sector could look like.
Carved in Blue: Can you tell us about the mission of The Sustainable Angle?
Nina: The Sustainable Angle is a not for profit organization that initiates and supports projects which contribute to minimizing the environmental impact of industry and society, and that help make it easier for companies, institutions and individuals, to make better informed decisions when it comes to sustainability.
Our main project is the Future Fabrics Expo, which aims to introduce the fashion industry to sustainable innovations and high quality, commercially available fashion materials with a lower environmental impact. Since 2011, over 3,000 materials from more than 100 suppliers and mills have been shown to thousands of fashion professionals. Background information about sustainability in fashion is shown alongside the fashion materials and the innovation hub. Seminars run over the two days held by industry experts and thought leaders.
Carved in Blue: Who are some of your members and the mills that participated in the Future Fabrics Expo?
Nina: Over 100 mills and suppliers are shown from all over the world, mainly from European and Asian countries. Bossa Denim, Kasim, Prosperity, Santandarina as well as some following the Greenpeace Detox initiative, including Lebenskleidung, Bysshe partners, Pinatex Anas Anam, HansCreative textiles, Elmer Zweifel, Orange Fibre organic textile company, Nova Kaeru and Atlantic leather, and many more.
Carved in Blue: You recently held a sustainability panel at London Fashion Week—what was the experience like?
Nina: It was fabulous to be holding a talk on the catwalk of London Fashion Week as part of LFW positive f
ashion initiative. This was a first for LFW and we are grateful for them to have enabled us to hold such an important talk during LFW. The panel was excellent, speakers included: Helen Sahi, senior director of sustainability for Avery Dennison talking about retail branding and information solutions; Oya Barlas Bingul, business development manager of the Lenzing Group talking about their award-winning low-impact cellulose fibers and their latest innovations such as Refibra™; Henry Palmer from Bysshe partners shared insights of the production of their cotton and hemp fabrics made in Britain; Daniel Lismore the London based artist, fashion designer, author and campaigner talked about his creations including reusing, reclaiming and recycling fabrics and clothes and his involvement in a sustainable fashion campaign by H&M; Arizona Muse, model, mother, and world citizen talking a
bout sustainability in the fashion industry from her perspective. The panel was moderated by Amanda Johnston, curator and consultant for The Sustainable Angle.
What really came through was that there are so many ways a company can already be more responsible in the way they design, produce and operate. There was a clear perception that this industry is changing and that this change is exciting with lots of opportunities. The innovations coming through are fascinating, efficiency gains remarkable, waste reduction significant, better and more responsible production and smarter design processes are not just good for the environment but are actually making sense for business. There was agreement that what is needed is more investment in sustainable technologies, mills and generally the supply chain that have committed to sustainability. Much of it is still quite niche and this will move it more mainstream. Read more on our blog.
Carved in Blue: What are the best ways brands can communicate sustainability to consumers?
Nina: By being transparent and showing honesty and integrity. Nothing can be changed overnight in fashion. But stating the vision and framework overall is important, to show commitment where the company is moving towards this and what steps are being taken from day one. Communication is crucial and a hard nut to crack. But consumers are getting more and more savy, they know very quickly when it is green washing and when it is a real commitment. And this will be appreciated. Customer loyalty follows, which is key.
Carved in Blue: Your team visited the TENCEL® production site. What was most interesting about the visit?
Nina: I was gutted that I could not go. Amanda Johnston, my colleague, went on the trip and was intrigued and fascinated by it. So much innovation, so high tech.
What I would like to see also is the town Lenzing in Austria and to see how the filtered water leaving Lenzing Group’s factory is entering the drinking water system in the town. I want to drink that water and see for myself, fascinating!
Carved in Blue: Five years from now, what will be the most important accomplishment of The Sustainable Angle?
Nina: Having contributed significantly to changing the way the fashion industry thinks of sustainable materials and having facilitated access and connections between sustainable innovators, mills and suppliers of fashion materials with the fashion industry. We are proud to always have supported students wherever possible and are currently developing an educational kit for lecturers and students which will help integrating sustainability into the curriculum of fashion colleges. After all, if students are not more knowledgeable about sustainability in fashion, we will never manage to change this industry. They need to know about this upon graduating so they can carry this forward at the start of their career.
Carved in Blue: What’s next for The Sustainable Angle?
Nina: Next up is a workshop for the British Fashion Council members. Then several master classes held at our West London Studio, followed by the 7th Future Fabrics Expo in January 24-25, 2018.
Carved in Blue: Where do you like to shop for sustainable fashions in London?
Nina: Online. Reve en Vert. Gather & See. H&M Conscious Collection, Ekyog.
Carved in Blue: What is your favorite pair of jeans?
Nina: Kuyichi pair of jeans I have for years, saving this up now.
Carved in Blue: What does Carved in Blue mean to you?
Nina: It is a great new way of working and presenting denim with a lower environmental footprint that is ticking all the boxes for the denim industry.