Transformers Foundation Board Members on Denim’s Ethical Evolution
Recognizing the need for change and enacting transformation are two different things.
Earlier this year, the denim industry thought leader turned into action as it turned its Kingpins Transformers content programming into an NGO centered on taking the industry in a more sustainable, responsible direction.
This newly formed organization has attracted industry insiders with a likeminded desire to move the needle in denim. Among the foundation’s board members are Robin Cornelius, who founded traceability service Product DNA, Gaviland founder Miguel Sanchez, as well as Alberto de Conti, who heads up the fashion division at Rudolf Group, and previously worked at Levi Strauss & Co.
Carved in Blue caught up with Robin, Miguel and Alberto to get their thoughts on the transformation they want to see in the denim industry and how the coronavirus crisis may impact awareness for the organization’s mission.
Carved in Blue: Why are you involved in the Transformers Foundation?
Robin: I share the same vision as [Kingpins founder] Andrew Olah regarding the social and environmental issues and ethics in general to be implemented in the denim industry.
Miguel: Because it is for me an exciting mission, more than a project. It is highly motivating to work for an organization that aims to coordinate the scattered efforts of a very innovative industry, from fiber to garment at the point of sale, and so becoming a unified voice for other partners in the fashion/denim segment. This will facilitate to position the whole denim industry as what it actually is: a complex, not properly appreciated high added value industry. It is also satisfying to support the different educational and communication activities fostered by the foundation, intended for all around the denim world—from students in high schools to top professionals.
On the other hand, it is personally rewarding to have the opportunity to join experts on different fields on exchanging opinions and impressions in defining ways to face the current and future challenges for denim.
Alberto: Because it very much feels like doing the right thing. And doing this thing right is fundamental to creating and sustaining an effective, transforming value system throughout the denim value chain.
Carved in Blue: Transformers Foundation was established prior to the COVID pandemic, how has this impacted the relevance?
Robin: The importance of Tranformers Foundation’s mission was already recognized by many players in the denim sector and the textile industry in general. The paradigm shift following the COVID pandemic has certainly reinforced a growing awareness of the importance of this mission.
Miguel: Unfortunately, the outbreak of the pandemic caused all the activities—not only the industrial ones—to nearly come down to a standstill. The order of priorities to focus on changed completely, and so the interest on new proposals related to a paralyzed industry, such as fashion, apparel, denim, was reduced to a very low level. However, this has not changed the activity scope of the foundation, nor its relevance. Quite to the contrary, I expect a more responsible and critical approach by end consumers and supplying brands to how the products and materials that we used in our everyday life are made, and the implications for environment and human. This will strengthen the foundation aims and proposals.
During these sad and convulsive times, the foundation did not stop to set out projects. On the contrary, we continued working on moving forward the different initiatives in order to have them ready to be publicly announced and implemented as soon as the situation starts to improve.
Alberto: The fashion and denim market will rebound after the severe COVID-19-induced contraction, but getting back to growth won’t mean returning to the previous world, as disruptive forces reshape the industry. And during this survival of the fittest, transformation might play a bigger role than planned for.
Carved in Blue: How would you describe the ideal transformation for the denim industry?
Robin: A transformation of the relationship between suppliers—possible agents—and brands towards mutual respect in full transparency to allow the consumer to form a precise opinion on the responsible approach or not of a brand.
Miguel: It would ideally be a combination of elements. Just to name a few:
- A respectful industry in all aspects (CSR, OHS) with the workers in the supply chain of goods
- An environmentally responsible and safe manufacturing, all along the process
- Based on an ethical, partnership-based business model. Particularly in the commercial agreements between brands and suppliers
- Perceived as a high added value, innovative and responsible fashion by end consumers, so they understand and appreciate the actual worth of a pair of jeans more than the selling price
- A business to move away from compulsive mass purchasing-provoked habits, complete and sustained on facts marketing claims, providing more information about the products on sale and favor makes-sense articles.
Alberto: A journey that gradually turns the industry into something leaner, more transparent and characterized by robust substantiation behind marketing proclaims.