WTS Unlocks Indigo Knitwear Solution
With TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology, the world of indigo is expanding. The spun-dyed fibers are colorfast, allowing them to be used in more applications—including knits—thereby bringing the blue hue to more categories.
World Textile Sourcing has adopted these indigo modal fibers for a knit apparel collection. The U.S.-based sourcing firm is the largest manufacturer and importer of Peru-made fashion to the American market, producing more than 2 million garments per month in its 15 partner factories. WTS also has a long history of using TENCEL™ fibers, working with a wide range of the wood-based cellulosic materials.
The company’s design director Diana Alvarado chatted with Carved in Blue about the collection WTS produced and her experience working with TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology.
Carved in Blue: Why did you decide to develop apparel using TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology? What attracted you to these fibers?
Diana: For years, we’ve been trying to develop indigo fabrics in circular knits, which has been challenging due to the fact that the indigo dyeing technique on yarns for knits is unstable and uneven.
We’ve been looking to develop indigo products because we understand it is a necessity within our customers; they have been looking for indigo alternatives for years. To be able to work with Lenzing’s indigo modal technology has been the perfect solution. Based on our long relationship with Lenzing, we relied that this technology would be the solution for the long-awaited indigo products, especially because it unites innovation and sustainability—main values at WTS.
Carved in Blue: What were your initial impressions when you began working with TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology?
Diana: TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology has been very easy to work with in terms of the knitting process and dyeing process. During the dyeing process, it doesn’t contaminate (stain) the equipment. Also, the consistency and shade reproducibility are much more consistent than regular indigo.
Carved in Blue: Which blending partners are you mixing with the indigo modal? What effects or product attributes do these combinations create?
Diana: We’ve blended yarns with Peruvian cotton, expanding the possibilities of shades and color effects. Also, this gives the fabrics a richer texture and a casual look—perfect for our type of clients that are very denim oriented. It keeps the softness of the modal fiber, but at the same time, it gives body to the fabric.
Carved in Blue: Were there any learning curves with indigo modal, and how did you overcome them?
Diana: We had faced some difficulties at the laundry processes trying to discharge the TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology fibers, as they perform differently than regular indigo. Once we learned the correct formulation, it was very easy to duplicate and get the effects we were looking for.
Carved in Blue: What kinds of garments have you created out of TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology for this collection? What are you planning to develop in the future?
Diana: We’ve created different fabrics, from lightweight jerseys, mini jacquards, ribs to midweight French terry. We’ve created T-shirts, polos, tops, sweatshirts, joggers, tanks, etc. with these beautiful knit fabrics. We are planning to continue developing more textured fabrics, new washes, heavier terries and updated jerseys.
Carved in Blue: In your opinion, what is the opportunity in taking indigo beyond jeans?
Diana: Indigo has been known for years in the denim industry but it is still unique and special for the circular knits industry. Within knits, it has a great performance and aesthetic; it gives the fabrics another dimension. It is a category that has a lot of potential not only because of the “denim” look, but because the fabrics you can work with are much softer, comfortable and sustainable. Consumers will continue looking for these types of attributes and to consciously buy products that not only fit their necessities, aesthetic and comfort, but take care of their footprint in the environment.