Bast Recast Deep-Dive: Denim Blouse 1874 (Trucker Jacket)
From workmen to cowboys to bikers, the jean jacket has woven itself into the fabric of denim culture. And the history of the denim or duck trucker jacket most certainly starts with Levi’s.
The very first denim jacket came into being in the form of a work shirt when Levi Strauss created the “Levi’s Blouse,” an outerwear garment intended as a companion to work trousers. The shirt was known as the 506 (also known as a Type I), and set the standard for all denim jackets to come.
From the late 1800s to mid 1900s, indigo blue clothing was deeply associated with the working classes, such as the “blue collars” and “tradies.” Blue-collar jobs refer to occupations requiring skilled labor, mainly manual and industrial in nature.
The indigo dyeing of the various workwear items sought to mask the dirt and grease that would result from the work environment. This was especially important when the frequent washing of clothing was not possible or extremely labor intensive. Thus, the number-one value associated with indigo-dyed workwear was durability. The second value was practicality.
Once a perfect symbol of conformity and traditional values, in the second half of the 20th century, the denim jacket became ingrained into youth culture, an instantly recognizable signpost for rebellion and counter culture.
The denim jacket was one of the first ever unisex pieces of clothing, looking good on both men and woman alike. It was perfect for the new women’s liberation and sexual freedoms. What could be more equal than a jacket that both genders could comfortably wear without judgement or restriction?
The jacket in the Bast Recast collection is based on the earliest known Levi’s jacket or blouse from 1874-1880 period. Strauss is credited with designing a top to match his jeans, and dubbed it the “Triple Pleat Blouse.”
Our version is single needle tailored and is enhanced from the original by a continuous stitch, which catches every pleat down the front placket. Although this feature today is solely for decoration, originally they were designed for practical reasons; stitches holding down the pleats could be removed to give the wearer extra room.
In order to do this historical garment justice, Endrime designed the jacket in three fabric bases; all fabrics were supplied by Naveena Denim Ltd (NDL), based in Lahore, Pakistan.
The collection includes a black, a dark indigo and an ecru version of the jacket.
The black and ecru versions contain cottonized hemp, and the dark indigo, not only contains conventional wetspun hemp but it is also a 2×2 canvas weave.
This weave, known as “duck canvas,” was the original fabric construction stated in the Levi Strauss & Co. patent granted on May 20, 1873. Iron-clad cotton “duck” canvas, as it was known, was gradually phased out in favor of flexible cotton denim, a fabric that was much like the twilled fabric we know today.
TENCELTM REFIBRA, TENCELTM Modal Color and TENCEL™️ Lyocell are represented here in these fabric compositions.
Over the decades, the trucker design has evolved, and this interpretation is no different with period-correct ecru stitching made with Crafil (Celafil®) TENCEL™ thread, front pockets sewn with 3/16” twin needle stitch, run and fell clean construction seams 1/4″ and 5/16” (single needle tailored), period-correct lockstitch shirt buttonholes, back pleats and cinch buckle.
Each garment is available in both raw and washed versions, with Jeanologia® responsible for all the processing. All finishes were designed to achieve a low EIM rating. In both the black and indigo, Jeanologia has employed their latest “atmospheric” process, which is able to closely mimic stone washing effects. All three garment recipes successfully achieved a low E.I.M. rating.
The finishing touches on the garments include a Bast Recast hemp canvas waistband label, hand-stamped printed with Officina+39 Recycrom™ dyestuff range, Carved in Blue® branded buttons and rivets and Warp Face recycled paper hang tag and joker label made from denim scraps left over from the project.
Click through the slideshow below to discover the 1874 Denim Blouse.
