Industry Voices: Ingredient Brand Execs on the State of Denim
Along with the rest of the apparel industry, denim has recently faced some ups and downs due to economic fluctuations and changing consumer behavior. For a window into what is happening on the ground, Carved in Blue is catching up with industry figures—including executives at mills and consultants—to get their perspective.
Here, executives from chemical and dye company Officina+39 and laundry technology firm Jeanologia weigh in on what they are seeing and the path ahead for the category.
Andrea Venier, managing director, Officina+39 (Italy)
Carved in Blue: From your perspective, how is the denim market currently performing? What are the main factors you see affecting the market?
Andrea: For the past six to seven months and still today, we have been facing a complicated situation. It is a time of difficulty and pressure for various reasons: crisis of raw materials, transportation, rising cost of energy and war. We live and work in a very complex, interconnected and fragile world where, as they say, the flap of a butterfly’s wings can cause a hurricane on the other side of the world. All this creates uncertainty and concern among consumers, causing a crisis in terms of consumption.
Carved in Blue: How would you describe the level of consumer confidence compared to last year?
Andrea: The level of consumer confidence is affected by the crisis and in general by the uncertainty of this historical moment, which therefore leads them to be less confident about the economy in general. Every economic crisis presents us with challenges and opportunities for both brands and the supply chain, which must be able, at this particular time, to grasp and address these challenges. There is definitely a segment of consumers that is more positive and waiting to perceive new possibilities and opportunities from the market that are more in line with their expectations.
Carved in Blue: Is consumer interest in denim up, down or flat? And where do you see this going in the next year?
Andrea: Consumer interest and confidence will be affected by the evolution of this economic crisis, so in general interest is flat unless brands and the supply chain are able to come closer to consumer expectations.
Consumers are increasingly aware of the impact of their choices and their impact on the planet. This means that they are beginning to choose carefully what they decide to buy, taking into account various aspects related to the concept of sustainability.
Carved in Blue: How does Gen Z’s consumer behavior around denim compare to millennials, Gen X and baby boomers? What does this mean for denim retail?
Andrea: Generation Z is subjected to so much input and information, the world has become hectic and it is difficult to appreciate the single moment or the single thing. This also applies to denim. Previous generations, who were more thrifty, dreamed for days in front of store windows to savor the moment when they could buy themselves a denim garment. Now the world is different, the evolution over the years has shifted to fast fashion.
Moreover, denim, from being the king/queen garment of the fashion world, now has many more competitors, such as the whole world of T-shirts and sneakers. And it is with a note of romanticism that I think that denim in order to return to being the king/queen must be able to create emotions in the consumer, must return to creating desire in being able to buy it. This philosophy in my opinion could have a positive response toward all generations even in the baby boomer generation.
Carved in Blue: How well is the denim industry paying attention to and serving consumer wants and needs?
Andrea: I am optimistic because I see that the direction taken by the denim industry is the right one. I see that the gap between those who believe in a different future and those who are static is increasing. So the opportunities for those who invest in technology, sustainability, etc. are growing. The supply chain has created many technologies that could be interesting for consumers. Brands have many opportunities to get closer to consumers’ needs, just because of these new technologies.
Carved in Blue: What could the industry do to move more wallet share toward denim?
Andrea: We often talk about a more “local” and less “global” market, but I believe that realistically the massive globalization process of the past 20 years will not be able to convert to a traditionally “local” market in a couple of years. However, what can be done is to find a new model that creates a different balance from both the “local” model of 30 years ago and the “global” model of today. This process will be difficult and will certainly have major consequences in the sector, but this change is a challenge and a stimulus that must be approached with awareness and a different perspective, more focused on available resources and real needs. Being part of this change is our goal, and we are constantly trying to make our concrete contribution.
Carme Santacruz, creative director and denim designer, Jeanologia (Spain)
Carved in Blue: From your perspective, how is the denim market currently performing? What are the main factors you see affecting the market?
Carme: In my role as a creative and denim designer, I’ve observed how denim has become a core product category, present across various consumer groups and product ranges, covering from high-end luxury to everyday retailers and thrift shops.
Denim has emerged as a significant source of fashion inspiration and, simultaneously, stands as a distinct category, fitting into both flash trends and the essential wardrobe styles.
Carved in Blue: How would you describe the level of consumer confidence compared to last year?
Carme: I believe customers are increasingly conscious about transparency when it comes to their purchases. The final consumers expect clear details about the production process and material sources, as transparency imbues confidence in people.
Being honest and open is closely tied to building trust in a brand. Throughout the fashion industry, from behind-the-scenes to front-row brands, mechanisms have been put in place to earn trust through transparency—certifications, third party verifications and so on—and I would say that this boost in confidence has grown in recent years.
Carved in Blue: Is consumer interest in denim up, down or flat? And where do you see this going in the next year?
Carme: In recent years, I’ve noticed a significant rise in interest towards denim within the fashion industry. Designers who weren’t previously familiarized with jeans wear are now exploring it widely. Furthermore, there are brands identifying denim as an important asset to re-position themselves into the fashion spectrum and building a presence through denim.
I’m confident and wish to believe that the interest in denim is following an ascending path.
Carved in Blue: How does Gen Z’s consumer behavior around denim compare to millennials, Gen X and baby boomers? What does this mean for denim retail?
Carme: The youth perceive fashion in a different way. Even with all the changes and challenges due to the pandemic in the recent years, the wide variety of products and trends could be because of how young people now approach things. They’re looking for styles that are unique to them, something that sets them apart from others.
Interests like sustainability, human rights, labor rights and digitalization have shaped how they shop in a distinctive manner. This often leads to an increase in secondhand clothing, a focus on up-and-coming design talents, and a preference for experiences and interests over just clothing.
Carved in Blue: How well is the denim industry paying attention to and serving consumer wants and needs?
Carme: Sustainability and transparency are now central in the denim world. I believe our industry was among the pioneers in recognizing errors and understanding that sustainability was crucial for survival. This fills us with hope.
Carved in Blue: What could the industry do to move more wallet share toward denim?
Carme: Denim is a product that always will be around, no matter the trends or the economy. It’s an essential category that sticks around beyond quick fashion changes. Right now, we’re witnessing lots of different denim styles: there’s luxury denim, the classic jeanswear brands, retailers, secondhand denim.
In my opinion, the diversity in the product and its ability to transcend styles initially not associated with denim is what will make it endure and grow.