Matte TENCEL™ Collection Showcases Mill and Material Innovation
For decades, TENCEL™ Lyocell has had a place in the denim world, as mills turned to the fiber to add sustainability and performance properties to jean fabrics. One trait that was common among TENCEL™ jeans was a sheen from the wood-based fibers. But two years ago, Lenzing opened up new design potential with the launch of matte TENCEL™, giving mills the ability to create TENCEL™ denim without the shine.
Since the debut of matte TENCEL™ in 2021, this variant has taken off with manufacturers around the globe. At Kingpins Show in Amsterdam this week, Lenzing is launching a Matte TENCEL™ Denim Capsule Collection, which was developed in collaboration with mill partners.
“This latest collection is a result of our ongoing collaboration with 15 mill partners across different regions and aims to expand upon our initial launch for greater design versatility, bringing cotton-like denim aesthetics with the same level of TENCEL™ softness to an even greater range of fabric application,” said Tuncay Kilickan, head of global business development, denim at Lenzing. “Together with our partners, we explored the use of matte TENCEL™ fibers in heavier fabric constructions and compositions of 40 percent and more, which gave us stunning results with final fabrics delivering higher opaqueness and less sheen than ever.”
Downstream supply chain collaboration is a significant emphasis for the TENCEL™ Denim team and Lenzing, as the company seeks to expand adoption of wood-based fibers. This initiative has given Lenzing more insight into how companies are using its materials. For this project, Lenzing tapped AGI Denim, Artistic Fabric Mills, Azgard9, Beximco, Bhaskar Denim, Crescent Bahuman Limited, Indigo Textiles, Kassim Denim, LNJ Denim, Naveena Denim Limited, Panther Denim/Tat Fung Textile, SM Denim Mills, TCE and US Denim Mills.
When matte TENCEL™ first launched, it was largely used for lightweight materials, such as women’s denim. Since then, this has expanded to men’s and gender-neutral denim, categories where luster is even less popular.
Matte TENCEL™ still carries the soft hand feel, breathability and drape that standard lyocell is known for. It also boasts a low environmental impact. Lenzing’s TENCEL™ lyocell is made from responsibly sourced wood and is produced in a closed-loop system that recycles almost all of the solvent used.
Here is what some of our partners had to say about the collection and matte TENCEL™.
Nauman Ahmad, general manager product development, Indigo Textiles:
The reduced shine of matte TENCEL™ fibers help produce denim fabrics with a more natural, cotton-like aesthetic, yet they retain all the same features and environmental benefits typical of standard TENCEL™ Lyocell. It has helped us appeal to consumers seeking authentic looking, yet responsible denim.
Ali Tekin, research and development director, AGI Denim:
Due to the closed-loop process the production of matte TENCEL™ fibers reduces the amount of waste involved, which contributes to the overall sustainability of the denim fabrics.
Arsal Kassim, creative director, Kassim Denim:
The fibers are…highly receptive to various dyes and finishes. They can be efficiently dyed, allowing [us] to achieve all kinds of desired colors or shades while also reducing production time and resource consumption.
Faisal Yaqub, AGM business development, Naveena Denim Limited:
The remarkable versatility of TENCEL™ fibers allows us to use it as both functional and luxury-enhancing fiber in fabric developments.
Intizar Ali, general manager research & business development, US Denim Mills:
The introduction of 40 percent matte TENCEL™ in final fabrics greatly enhances their softness, while simultaneously reducing shine when compared to conventional TENCEL™ fibers. This transformation brings out the authentic character of the fabric in its purest form. As a result, the overall product exudes a premium, authentic denim look, perfectly capturing the original jeans aesthetic.