Blue Cast: Weftside’s Co-Founders on Their Less-Is-More Denim Brand
Blue Cast is a podcast series from the TENCEL™ Denim team. Each episode features a conversation with a special guest from within the industry or the fringes of the denim community. The following is a recap of Episode 510.
The denim industry is ramping up sustainability efforts, from using recycled materials to innovative laundry techniques that save water. But Swedish-based brand Weftside is taking a different approach to reducing denim’s impact.
Weftside takes its name from the back side of a denim weave, which is hidden from view but which dictates a lot of the quality and feel of jeans. During the latest episode of our Blue Cast podcast, the brand’s founders Titti Andersson, Jon-Ivar Unsgaard and Johan Lindstedt explained that Weftside is focused on quality over quantity, producing just three basic fits (tight, regular and loose) in three different colors (indigo, black and chalk). The idea is producing jeans that have longevity in consumers’ closets because of timeless shapes and durable construction.
“The best thing for a denim brand is to not exist,” said Johan. “But if you try to exist in a world when you can do stuff much better. We want to do perfect and really good denims that people can…have for a long time.”
Mass-produced denim has the same race to the bottom as the rest of the fashion industry, as companies try to squeeze as much margin out of a garment by nickel and diming suppliers. Taking the opposite approach, Weftside has taken an “empathetic” approach. For instance, it accepts suppliers’ costs at face value rather than trying to haggle for discounts or shop around. “If the product is too cheap, then somebody else is paying,” said Johan.
Another way it reduces the impact of production is by reusing fabrics again and again. This prevents waste that can happen when companies keep many textile options in stock and do not use them—resulting in deadstock. It also tries to reduce extraneous trims and only add when something will improve the quality. The jeans are also left raw, cutting out impact in finishing.
With this focus on quality ingredients and construction, the denim comes at a price tag that makes it more of an investment piece, but the idea is that they will last over time. “You need to dream a little bit about it,” said Jon-Ivar. “You can almost reach it, but you must maybe save a little bit more to have it. If you get everything that you point at…then that will not be so much value for yourself.”
Weftside considers itself a lifestyle brand, targeting a state of mind rather than a specific demographic of consumers. The brand’s tags blend into the garments, keeping the focus on the product.
The brand only sells online, but it will be participating in some upcoming fairs with other labels. The goal is to grow organically, rather than chasing the constant growth that is the typical mode of thinking in business. “How small can we be and still exist, and how little noise can we make but still be heard?” said Titti.
Listen to the episode here.