
Indigo’s Science-Meets-Art Story Is Spotlighted in San Diego Exhibit

One of the most iconic elements of denim is indigo. While the methods used to create this blue hue have evolved over the years—from natural to synthetic dyeing—the color has retained its hold on denim design.
Although prevalent in denim, indigo has a footprint that extends to art and craft, as well as spirituality and science. Mingei International Museum’s exhibition Blue Gold: The Art and Science of Indigo dives into this diversity. The museum—located in San Diego’s Balboa Park—focuses on folk art, craft and design from around the world, and the exhibit focuses on indigo as it intersects with these subjects.
The exhibit, which opened in September and will run through March 16, was co-curated by Emily Hanna and Guusje Sanders, with guest co-curator Barbara Hanson Forsyth. It showcases 180 works spanning 30 countries, which together make up a “sea of blue.” In addition to pieces from the museum’s permanent collection, there are also items on loan borrowed from national and international organizations. On view are a Levi’s 501 from 1933, multiple kimonos, textiles dating back to the 7th century and more.
Additionally, the museum commissioned work from artists and craftspeople. One of these commissioned pieces from artist Porfirio Gutiérrez is a series of eight hand-dyed wool panels, nodding to his family’s history of weaving and dyeing in Mexico.

The exhibit is part of The Getty’s PST ART initiative, with the latest edition themed Art and Science Collide. This is fitting for indigo’s origins. Regardless of how it is used, indigo’s color extraction process always stems from a chemical reaction. Thousands of years ago, people across the globe discovered how to turn the Indigofera plant into dye by first creating a powder, boiling the powder and then fermenting the resulting liquid.
While fascinating, indigo’s history also has some horrible elements, with ties to colonialism and slavery. The exhibit sheds light on some of these less savory aspects of indigo’s story while appreciating its art.

Throughout the run, there have been a series of hands-on dye workshops and talks to let visitors dive deeper into indigo.
“Indigo, a deep blue dye derived from green plants, has been used by cultures across the world,” said Dr. Emily Hanna, director of exhibitions and chief curator at Mingei. “The title of this exhibition alludes to its value as a commodity, but also elevates its aesthetic worth.”