Insider’s View: The State of Denim Sustainability
Sustainability has become a buzzword among denim makers, but reducing the industry’s carbon footprint won’t be an individual task.
This is where denim stakeholders like Marco Lucietti come into play. 
Lucietti, who currently serves as a senior adviser at SANKO and the Copenhagen Fashion Summit (CFS), works with major companies to develop strategies that foster environmental improvements in their global supply chains. The goal, for Lucietti, is to positively impact the denim industry, by helping brands create more eco-conscious apparel that meets consumers’ lifestyle needs.
Carved in Blue caught up with Lucietti and discussed the new CFS agenda, the challenge of promoting eco as value, the role of the eco-conscious consumer and what it will take for the denim industry to shift to a more circular economy.
Carved in Blue: Tell us a little about your background and connection to textiles and denim.
Marco: I am a senior adviser and strategic management consultant for different multinational and premium-end players in the global fashion industry, such as the premium denim manufacturer ISKO and the Copenhagen Fashion Summit. I have been working for over 15 years with leading ingredient brands of the fashion system, including managing different roles at DuPont, Invista and ISKO.
Carved in Blue: What are some of the projects you’re working on now?
Marco: I am now senior adviser at SANKO working with the company management on strategic assets and projects. I am also strategic adviser of (CFS), working on sustainability, with a special focus on supply chain networking and key ingredient brands as primary cornerstone for a virtuous cycle. I also work as a strategic management consultant for different premium end companies, supporting them for business analysis and for the development of growth strategies.
My core interest is the development of a comprehensive approach aimed at the creation of value through responsible innovation, a mindset in which ethics and environmental improvements are the priority at every stage of production and post-consumer consumption.
Another essential element of this strategic approach is the promotion and enhancement of Made in Italy excellence all over the world, a passionate concern that has accompanied the country from the very beginning of its experience in the industry.
Carved in Blue: What are some of the highlights about the upcoming Copenhagen Fashion Summit?
Marco: Since its first edition in 2009, CFS has established itself as the world’s leading business event on sustainability in fashion. It has become the place to be for agenda setting discussions on the most critical environmental, social and ethical issues facing our industry and planet. It is no secret that the fashion industry is polluting (the second most polluting sector), so CFS is the stage where discussions can turn into solutions and players can take commitments to help saving the planet.
This year, the CFS will kick off its sixth edition with the introduction of an exhibition space for sustainable solutions called Innovation Forum. This new component of the summit will enable small and large fashion companies to meet with more than 50 of the most noteworthy sustainable solution providers. Here, a special speed-dating event with prescheduled business meetings between solution providers and fashion brands will also take place.
Carved in Blue: What is the greatest challenge the denim industry faces in sustainability?
Marco: It is about the importance of the value chain approach and responsible innovation, the mindset in which ethics and environmental improvements are the priority at every stage. Global shifts of the denim industry need to be managed wisely and we need to create a real understanding around the idea that sustainability is starting from cotton down to denim in the stores. A strong consumer awareness needs to be promoted, letting everyone understand that sustainable does not mean cheap. A mentality change is needed to understand that ECO IS FASHION and ECO MEANS VALUE.
Carved in Blue: What does “the most sustainable jean” look like to you?
Marco: “Most sustainable jean” is a responsible one, produced using the utmost technology in production to save on water, energy, chemicals, packaging etc.—it needs to look as a fashion item, with an outstanding fit, outstanding sustainable wash. But, it also needs to have an “ethical” side, with production taking care of people, workers and health of both producers and consumers. Clear and transparent information must be provided to inform about how it is sustainable and why.
Carved in Blue: What do you think the denim industry will look like in 10 years?
Marco: For sure, sustainability will play a key role, since we cannot imagine a future without it. Moreover, today brand loyalty for consumers is not a must anymore, brands should offer experiences to consumers and eco is a great way to create an engaging storytelling. For sure, M&A, mass players and global approach will play a key role, together with “tailor made” small factories able to offer customized solutions to brands. In my opinion, there is the possibility that medium end of the market and medium size companies will struggle.
Carved in Blue: When does denim stop being denim?
Marco: Denim stops being denim when it is not able to intercept social changes and it is not able to live and age with the consumer. Denim is all about experience.
Carved in Blue: What’s your signature accessory?
Marco: What a question. My white glasses!
Carved in Blue: What are your travel essentials?
Marco: A detective-story book, music, my running shoes and, of course, always a good pair of jeans!
Carved in Blue: What kind of museums do you like to visit?
Marco: I do love any kind of art and any expression of creativity…even if my favorites are the Italian painters from 1600s.
Carved in Blue: What music do you like to listen to while working?
Marco: Usually music from the ’80s…The only one able to rock the denim industry!
Carved in Blue: What does Carved in Blue mean to you?
Marco: Carved in Blue is a great platform where denim lovers can find information, opinions and hints about our industry definitely, a cannot-miss for denim lovers.