Designing to a New Code: A Chat with the 2019 ISKO I-SKOOL Winner
Denim’s sustainable future is bright thanks to the grit of young designers who intend to make their mark. To shine the spotlight on this generation, ISKO once again challenged university students as part its I-SKOOL design competition.
The winner of this year’s “New Denim Codes” challenge—in which students had to create a complete capsule collection using ISKO’s fabrics and research—was Xiaohui Lyu, a Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology student. Xiaohui went home with three awards: Best Overall Student, Best Showpiece and the Vogue Talents Special Mention.
courtesy of ISKO
Carved in Blue talked with Xiaohui to discover what drew the ambitious designer to I-SKOOL, what both amazes and shocks her, and how she intends to give back.
Carved in Blue: Why did you participate in the ISKOOL Program?
Xiaohui: ISKO has promoted the special craftsmanship of denim design through various channels and spread the new environmental protection concept of it, which is [of wide concern] around the world.
I learned about the ISKO competition last year from Zhao Rui, the fifth Vogue winner. In December, Wang Cheng, president of ISKO China, gave a special presentation at the Beijing Institute of Fashion, and I couldn’t wait to listen to it. At the presentation, I felt it was a very unique competition and also a rare opportunity to understand the denim fashion and the denim industry supply chain.
Carved in Blue: What did you learn most from the experience?
Xiaohui: Working on this project with ISKO, we were amazed at how rich the effects can be created by denim fabric. For this reason, I chose the classic raw denim fabric with a combination of dark and light yarn-dyed yarns. I want to express the contrast between depth and shallow, surface and line; at the same time, I also want to express a sense of speed and modern style of the rapid development of modern society. In fact, I want to find a humanistic feeling between traditional gradually indigo-dyed and modern fashion.
Carved in Blue: What was the inspiration for your design?
Xiaohui: My inspiration comes from the cleaners. The reason why I chose the “better” theme is because, in our city, I was touched by the hard work of the guardians of our homes every day. During the observation and research period, I found that the figure of their work exudes a natural beauty from the inside out, all the time. Their hard work makes our city clean and beautiful, so they are called the city’s beauticians.
Carved in Blue: Why is sustainability important for the denim industry?
Xiaohui: The theme of this competition is also the environmental protection that we all care about now. When I attended a National Geographic environmental conservation seminar, a group of photos from the Antarctic shocked me. Environmental pollution, warmer temperatures, and melting of the Antarctic and Arctic glaciers are actually warning us to focus on the environment and change our own way of life.
Denim is a leader in aligning sustainability with fashion and is synonymous with balancing the relationship between the two. At the same time, I believe that the designer shoulders the mission of being an environmental leader given by this society. Denim is also changing ourselves while changing our way of life. Actually, only by changing ourselves could our future be better and better.
Carved in Blue: Where do you want to be in five years?
Xiaohui: I have accumulated several years of work experience since I graduated from college. Currently, I am pursuing a master’s degree in design of fashion design and management major. After graduation, I plan to work in design and management related positions. I may continue to study for a Ph.D. in the future.
Carved in Blue: What did you like most about visiting Berlin?
Xiaohui: Museum Island is a really nice place. If I have a chance in the future, I would like to stay here for some time and slowly experience the charm of its art.
Carved in Blue: What does Carved in Blue mean to you?
Xiaohui: I think Carved in Blue is a great platform to create personalized knowledge of tannins and related industry chains. I like the phrase written in the story of TENCEL™ Lyocell on the homepage of the website: “Keep the earth in good shape.”
The continuation of sustainable development is inseparable from the innovation of innovative materials. Lenzing Denim team has done this— TENCEL™ Lyocell is a typical green fiber with a silky soft hand and cotton comfort, which has always been popular and has broad prospects. As a fashion designer, I am looking forward to the development of new environmentally friendly materials. I also look forward to the opportunity to work with such excellent teams as Carved in Blue to develop personalized denim fashion items.
Note: Thanks to Benton Wang, ISKO China, for interview translation.