Bast Recast Deep-Dive: Crafil
Lenzing’s Bast Recast collection would not have been possible without collaboration. When we set out to create designs using hemp mixed with TENCEL™ Lyocell, the project relied on the expertise and vision of partners—from mills to marketing.
While thread is often not the first thing that gets noticed in fashion, it is a crucial element of both construction and the overall environmental footprint of a garment. While polyester thread is popular, the synthetic material doesn’t biodegrade like cotton, TENCEL™ or hemp.
Keeping with the sustainability focus of the project, the Bast Recast garments were sewn with 100 percent TENCEL™ Lyocell thread by Crafil. Along with being biodegradable, the TENCEL™ thread is stronger than cotton threads.
“I wanted to move away from polyester core thread for a long, long time,” explained Mohsin Sajid of Endrime, who designed and produced the Bast Recast collection. Earlier, he had tried out linen and cotton thread, and while cotton looked “beautiful,” it couldn’t hold up during treatments. In contrast, the TENCEL™ Lyocell thread had no problems. “It was a test, but it was a joy,” Mohsin added.
Mohsin selected from an array of color options to fit the vintage designs, and Crafil developed thread specifically for the project. The garments were single needle tailored with nods to some of the earliest jeans.
Based in Portugal, Crafil began in 2004, and it was one of the first companies to market with a TENCEL™ thread for garment dye in 2013. The company has focused on creating sustainable thread options, and the market is responding.
“The industry is asking more and more, and we are very happy to see that everybody is looking for sustainable products,” said Vitor Teixeira, sales executive at Crafil.