Bast Recast Deep-Dive: Jeanologia
Lenzing’s Bast Recast collection would not have been possible without collaboration. When we set out to create designs using hemp mixed with TENCEL™ Lyocell, the project relied on the expertise and vision of partners—from mills to marketing.
Naveena Denim Limited (NDL) developed the textiles for Bast Recast, which included hemp blends in indigo, black and ecru shades. After production, NDL processed the textiles on Jeanologia’s G2 Dynamic machine. By using the ozone-based finishing technology, Naveena was able to save up to 90 percent of water. The ozone also added the benefits of no backstaining and improved crocking.
After the garments were assembled at Endrime’s U.K. studio, they were sent to Jeanologia’s facility in Spain for further finishing. The Lenzing denim team has been working with Jeanologia since 1995, with at least one project per year.
Victoria Soto, custom technology consultant at Jeanologia, explained that this was her first time working with hemp, and she was pleased to find the fabrics were very laser-friendly. This included a black textile with high laser performance, which is rare. Since the silhouettes and the fabric composition of the collection differed from most modern denim, there was some testing involved at first to get the processing right.
Taking cues from the workwear-inspired collection, Jeanologia made the fabrics appear worn in. In some cases, it meant adding stains to create a more vintage look. “I felt very inspired to work on this collection, because we didn’t only use the technology but we put our hands on to get these great final looks, and it means that we used natural elements from the environment, like clay oxide. So it was, it was really great to play the role of artisan,” said Victoria.
The finishing techniques were also low impact, adding to the sustainability quotient. “To have a great look without a green EIM score, for us is not a great garment,” said Jeanologia’s Brainbox director Fernando Cardona.
Click through the slideshow to see how Jeanologia’s finishing came together.
