Bast Recast Deep-Dive: Naveena Denim Limited
Lenzing’s Bast Recast collection would not have been possible without collaboration. When we set out to create designs using hemp mixed with TENCEL™ Lyocell, the project relied on the expertise and vision of partners—from mills to marketing.
Naveena Denim Limited (NDL) was the mill partner for Bast Recast. When it came to choosing the hemp supplier, NDL turned to Kingdom Mills, which it had visited back in 2019.
Hemp may have a much longer history than TENCEL™, but there are parallels between where hemp is today in the denim market and where TENCEL™ was a few decades ago. Together, the two cellulosic materials create sustainable jeans, and the added TENCEL™ gives the denim a softer touch.
“Bast Recast is a very special collection for me especially, and what makes it so unique is the idea of blending the ancient fiber with the modern fiber,” said Rashid Iqbal, executive director of NDL.
Working with Endrime’s Mohsin Sajid, Naveena originally developed more than 20 fabrics, and then produced a total of nine fabrics for Bast Recast. The blue, ecru and black denims included materials like 2×1 twills and duck canvas.
One of the focuses for the mill was getting the right feel and look for the fabrics. The inspiration for the collection was workwear garments of the late 1800s, so the ratio had to be right.
At the same time, the materials had to fit more modernized denim needs around comfort. “When we were studying hemp fiber, and we started collecting garments from the market, we realized that most of the garments are rigid and they had wet spun yarn. And of course it had limitations; it had a very itchy, harsh back on the fabric,” said Rashid. “So we realized that the blend is the most important thing.” By combining cottonized hemp with TENCEL™ Lyocell, Naveena was able to achieve a softer hand feel.
Within the finishing stages, NDL used Jeanologia’s G2 Dynamic technology to cut water use by 90 percent compared to conventional finishing. This process also eliminated backstaining and improved crocking, or color transfer.
Rashid called this the most sustainable collection that NDL has done. Adding to the eco credentials of the collection, this marked the first time Naveena used 100 percent TENCEL™ with REFIBRA™ for the warp yarns.
Click through the slideshow to see how the NDL fabrics were made.
