Blue Cast: Sina Steidinger on Bringing Sustainability into the Design Conversation
Blue Cast is a podcast series from the TENCEL™ Denim team. Each episode features a conversation with a special guest from within the industry or the fringes of the denim community. The following is a recap of Episode 512.
In the industry, we often hear about denim heads, but designer Sina Steidinger describes her simultaneous passion for denim and sustainability as having a “blue heart and a green mindset.”
On the latest episode of Blue Cast, Sina shared with Lenzing’s Tuncay Kilickan that since her fashion school days, her design passion has centered on dressing people for their everyday lives, which includes denim. As she was creating garments, she felt a responsibility to ensure that they would have minimal post-consumer impact, but sustainability is complex. During the pandemic, she went back to school to study sustainable management in textiles, and today she passes on her knowledge through college lectures and industry workshops. The Covid era also ushered in another change for her, she made the move from Germany to Amsterdam three years ago.
Sina spent some time working as a designer at Mud Jeans, which has circularity as a guiding principle. She noted that it was a challenge to create within the limitations that come with recycling requirements, but it was also rewarding. “That was an amazing experience to participate in creating beautiful everyday pieces which can and will be recycled later, so I can sleep well,” she said.
At this point in time, brands like Mud Jeans that put sustainability first are the exception rather than the rule. Innovations in lower impact next-generation materials, processes, chemicals and technologies exist, but adoption has lagged, which Sina attributes to financial considerations. She gave the example of Renewcell, which offered a solution for circular man-made cellulosic fibers but had to declare bankruptcy as orders didn’t come in fast enough. “If those new developments are not getting implemented into the supply chains and are not ending up in a garment or in jeans, then, of course, they cannot further develop,” said Sina.
Per Sina, designers are in the driver’s seat for much of the decision-making that influences the garment’s total impact, including raw material choices. This requires changing the conversation with manufacturers—such as wash developers—from solely focusing on an appearance outcome to a discussion that integrates sustainability. Rather than just guessing what will have the best outcome, she suggested consulting life cycle assessments during product development for data-backed, holistic visibility into what impact certain choices would have on the environment. “With those LCAs, we can basically get from feelings—so it feels more sustainable to use this and that—to really facts,” she said. “If we want to really save our planet…then it’s not about how we felt if a product is sustainable or not, but…if it really was sustainable or not.”
Pointing out that sustainability is not black or white, Sina noted that even materials like polyester have a place in design—provided they are serving the right purpose. For instance, they are at home on a water-resistant coat, but designers should consider natural alternatives for garments like summer dresses. “Don’t blame the fiber; blame the choice,” she said.
Listen to the episode here.