BlueTailoring Takes Denim Fabric in a Luxe Direction
Denim is often considered a casual material, but designer Stefano Chiassai’s latest project looks at jean fabrics with a sartorial eye.
Stefano has spent about 45 years in the industry. In 1985, he founded the style consultancy Studio Chiassai, and since 2009, he’s been the designer of the Fendi Menswear line.
Passionate about vintage clothing, Stefano has amassed a collection of about 15,000 garments over the years. Wanting to share this fashion history, he published two books that showcase looks that draw pieces from different decades, “CaosOrdinato” and “RitmoEmotivo.” The studio also opened an archive called TheCube in Tuscany in 2016, which designers can visit for research and inspiration.
For his third book, “BlueTailoring,” Stefano gave denim a high-fashion treatment. The studio worked with around 30 Italian manufacturers who are not in the denim space. To give the jean garments a more polished look, they were all left raw. The denim materials from Italian mill Berto were also mixed with luxe fabrics such as organza, velvet and leather.
This collection takes denim outside of the five-pocket jean box. A tuxedo-style coat was made in blue and black denim for contrast. Denim was also treated in unexpected ways, such as Sangallo lace embroidery. Stefano’s favorite creation is a suit featuring denim strips that are woven, with one weave direction showing the front and the other showing the back of the fabric.
“I hope that BlueTailoring has opened up, has broadened the vision of what you can do with the fabric denim,” said Stefano.
Watch the video below for more on the BlueTailoring collection.