How Kaihara Weaves Indigo Heritage with Denim Innovation
Japanese denim mill Kaihara’s roots in indigo stretch back over a century, but its history in denim began more recently.
About 70 years ago, the manufacturer translated its textile expertise into denim production. In the ensuing decades, it has opened facilities for weaving, finishing and spinning, allowing for vertical denim production. Just half a century after getting into the jeans business, the mill has become a go-to supplier for brands in about 30 countries, including Uniqlo, Gap, Levi Strauss, Rag & Bone and more.
Hirofumi Inagaki, general manager of Kaihara Corporation, spoke with Carved in Blue about some of the mill’s milestones, why Japanese denim is different and how Kaihara uses TENCEL™ fibers.
Carved in Blue: Could you give a brief overview of the history of Kaihara?
Inagaki San: We were founded in 1893 as a manufacturer of Bingo Kasuri, which is known as one of the big three authentic indigo-dyed textiles in Japan.
Kaihara Textile Mills Co., Ltd. was established in 1951, with capital of 1.8 million yen, 34 looms and 83 employees.
Then, we self-developed a patented submerged wringing automatic indigo dyeing machine and produced the 36-inch (90 cm)-wide width kasuri fabric under the trade name Nichibo Konny by using the world’s first power loom. In 1961, we developed the world’s first 48-inch (122 cm)-wide “kasuri sarong”—or fabric wrapped around the waist like a long skirt—and exported the folkwear to Aden in the Middle East. We started production of narrow wool kasuri for kijaku—the standard cloth length for kimono—for the first time in the Bingo region, ordered by Toyo Cotton.
In 1970, we developed Japan’s first rope-dyeing machine in house and converted to the denim business.
Next year, in 2023, we will mark the 130th anniversary of our operation.
Carved in Blue: The mill started out making kasuri fabric, and then shifted gears to denim later. How has that know-how in kasuri textiles translated into your denim production?
Inagaki San: We have applied the weaving and dyeing techniques of kasuri middle ounce thick fabric to the denim and have passed on our know-how to the next generation. We realized that the core white dyeing characteristic of denim yarn (warp) could be reproduced by applying the dyeing management methods we had developed over many years of kasuri production, and we designed and developed our own dyeing facilities by ourself.
In addition to dyeing and weaving management, we also realized the importance of stable cotton yarn procurement in order to maintain high quality, and in 1991 we established our own spinning company. This enabled us to procure and blend the best cotton for denim in-house and establish a strong quality. Since then, as we have faced new materials and challenges, we have accumulated in-house know-how, which has led us to the present day.
We have also been manufacturing products in consideration of the local community for many years, and we are constantly learning and adopting new equipment and technologies to reduce environmental impact so that we can further develop the ancient Japanese custom of appreciating nature and cherishing things.
Carved in Blue: From your perspective, what differentiates Japanese-made denim from denim made elsewhere?
Inagaki San: Compared to denim from others, there is a big difference in our products in terms of quality management, both in color and physical properties.
Carved in Blue: When did you first start working with TENCEL™ fibers? How did the relationship start?
Inagaki San: We’ve been using TENCEL™ fibers since 1994, when they were first introduced to the Japanese market.
Since 2000, we’ve intensified our denim development efforts of TENCEL™ fibers and are now highly regarded by many brands.
Carved in Blue: How are you incorporating TENCEL™ into your collections? What types of fibers are you using?
Inagaki San: The softness and suppleness of TENCEL™ fibers are utilized in the standard design of our denim variations.
It is also compatible with other fibers and is used for different purposes and concepts.
We use TENCEL™ Lyocell and TENCEL™ Modal as our standard, but we have also started using Future Indigo—TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology.
Carved in Blue: You have a great market share in the domestic market. In which three countries would you most like to grow your export business, and why?
Inagaki San: We would like to grow our business in the U.S., Europe, China, and other regions where the jeans and fashion market is thriving and has big potential.
Carved in Blue: What is in Kaihara’s plans for 2023?
Inagaki San: In Japan, we will strengthen collaboration and sales promotion with different fields outside the jeans casual market.
Overseas, we aim to grow sales and customer loyalty by re-strengthening sales promotion to jeans brands.