Introducing TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color Technology

Introducing TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color Technology

The lush indigo color has been highly coveted since ancient times. But dyeing fabric in the blue hue has come at a huge environmental cost.

Conventional indigo dyeing needs chemicals to make the pigment water soluble. The process of dyeing starts by dissolving the dye in a vat, followed by immersing yarn in the vat and then oxidizing the material. Indigo also has a low affinity for cellulosic fibers such as cotton, hemp or TENCEL™  fibers, so achieving a rich blue color typically requires multiple repetitions of the dyeing and oxidizing process. Aside from using potentially harmful chemicals, the process uses large volumes of water, thereby generating significant amounts of effluents.

Lenzing is changing the game for indigo application with its latest launch. Our TENCEL™ branded modal fiber with Indigo technology infuses pigment into fibers directly during the spinning process. To create modal fibers, Lenzing has to first turn wood pulp into a liquid form, or dope. In dope dyeing, color is added to this liquid before it is spun, cutting back significantly on the use of resources.

Made in Austria, the TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology fibers were found to reduce water consumption by more than 99 percent and wastewater by over 99 percent compared to conventional indigo yarn dyeing processes. Meanwhile, chemical use was cut by over 80 percent, electricity use was 99 percent lower and heat energy use declined by 100 percent.

“Innovation is at the core of what we do, from sustainable fiber sourcing through industry leading features and production processes, with the ever-present goal of safeguarding our environment,” said Florian Heubrandner, vice president global textiles business at Lenzing AG. “By upending traditional manufacturing processes and implementing our pioneering technology along with renewable and eco-responsible materials, TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology sets a new benchmark for indigo application and sustainability in the denim industry.”

As an added sustainability measure, Lenzing commissioned DyStar® to create an indigo pigment to meet the strict requirements of Oeko-tex Class 1 standard, including ultra-low levels of aniline, to use in the dope dyeing process. Aniline is a precursor for synthetic indigo, and aniline impurities remain on fabric after it has been dyed. Oeko-Tex and Bluesign have placed limits on aniline in their standards, and a number of brands include aniline on their restricted substance lists.

TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology has also been awarded the EU Ecolabel and BioPreferred designation from the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA).

Aside from the eco credentials of TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology, the fibers also have improved colorfastness compared to conventionally dyed fibers. One of the challenges of indigo is crocking, or the leeching of pigment from an indigo fabric onto other materials when it is rubbed. The new TENCEL™ fibers had better color retention than other indigo-dyed fibers when tested for wet and dry crocking.  With home laundering, the fibers also resist fading. However, for brands seeking a faded look, commercial laundries can create worn or vintage looks.

Lenzing worked with mills Candiani and Cone Denim to commercially launch TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology. Denim veteran Adriano Goldschmied has also developed a collection in collaboration with Blue Diamond, In The Loop, Shima Seiki, Crafil and Tonello.

“With driving sustainability at our core, we look forward to a fruitful collaboration with the production of this eco-responsible fiber type,” said Alberto Candiani, global manager of Candiani. “TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology also represents a great product to expand denim’s performances and aesthetics around sustainability itself.”

Steve Maggard, president of Cone Denim, adds, “Lenzing has long been an industry leader in sustainable fibers. With consumers being more eco-conscious, the denim industry has to evolve and innovate in smarter materials to stay efficient and competitive. We are proud to partner with the TENCEL™ brand to launch Indigo Color technology for modal fibers and promote greater sustainability for denim.”

Watch this video to learn more about this new development.

On Feb. 23 and 24, the Lenzing Denim team will be at Kingpins’ virtual event to present the TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology. Register here to join us at the show.