Meet the Makers: Carme Santacruz Zaragozá, Eko Kurniawan, Nikita Raman and Margaret Sam Describe Denim’s Personality and Their Dream Garments
At Carved in Blue, we believe denim is more than just fabric—it’s a story of people, passion and purpose. Our series Meet the Makers shines a light on the designers, artisans and innovators shaping the future of denim. Through their personal stories and creative journeys, we’ll explore the craftsmanship, vision and responsible innovation behind the jeans we love.
Below, we hear from Carme Santacruz Zaragozá, creative director and denim and fashion designer at Jeanologia; Eko Kurniawan, head of marketing from Gamatex; Nikita Raman, senior denim designer at Hugo Boss; and Margaret Sam, the founder and creative director of Sum London.
Carme Santacruz Zaragozá
Carved in Blue: If denim were a person, what would its personality be? And is there a song, city or piece of art you associate with it?
Carme: If denim were a person, I think it would be practical but effortlessly stylish. Someone who can handle anything—from tough situations to delicate ones—with ease.
And if it were art, for me, denim feels very much like Neoplasticism; Mondrian’s work comes to mind. Like his art, it strips away the unnecessary to reveal something essential, timeless and balanced through simple, universal structures. I’ve always loved Evisu jeans with those Mondrian-inspired pockets; they were the perfect blend of Japanese craftsmanship and Mondrian’s vision. I guess that’s part of why I make the connection.
Carved in Blue: Do you have a go-to denim piece you wear on repeat, or if you could design your dream piece—no limits—what would it be?
Carme: I have these ‘90s-inspired wide five-pocket jeans from Levi’s, which I wear over and over. They’re inspired by the skateboarding fits from back then. For years, they were out of trend, but I kept wearing them because they are the most comfortable and versatile jeans I own, and I always liked oversized clothes, so they were just perfect.
If I could design my dream piece, I would go for statement classics, like the five-pocket straight jeans, a trucker jacket or a simple T-shirt. To me, they are flawless. These pieces transcend time and capture what clothes are really about: style, function and meaning, all in one.
Carved in Blue: What’s your first memory of falling in love with denim? Can you share the story of how you first started working within denim?
Carme: My earliest memories of denim go back to my childhood when my aunts, who were seamstresses, made custom clothes for the family—denim included, of course. Back then, in the ‘80s and ‘90s, in my area, wearing double denim for Easter was quite common, and I remember feeling so excited putting together a full denim outfit.
Professionally, working with Jeanologia was a turning point. It opened my eyes to new technologies and suddenly, I wasn’t just designing garments, I could experiment with finishes beyond stonewashes or bleach. That was a huge creative spark and made me fall even deeper in love with denim and connected me to a vibrant, creative community around it.
Carved in Blue: What’s something you recently learned about denim or sustainability that surprised or inspired you?
Carme: Denim is incredibly exciting right now. There are so many ways to understand and produce denim sustainably. Secondhand denim is on the rise, and that’s inspiring; it opens opportunities to wear, customize, and give garments a second life. There’s raw denim, washed denim, printed denim and a range of fibers; it’s amazing. The industry has a strong heritage, but it’s also embracing innovation and sustainability. Honestly, it feels like a really creative, transformative time to be part of it.
Carved in Blue: In your opinion, what makes a denim garment truly timeless?
Carme: For me, it’s all about harmony. A timeless denim piece starts with a balanced silhouette and classic indigo twill. Beyond that, quality is key: materials, thoughtful design and meticulous manufacturing and finishing all contribute to a garment that lasts, both in style and in life.
Eko Kurniawan
Carved in Blue: If denim were a person, what would its personality be—and is there a song, city or piece of art you associate with it?
Eko: If denim were a person, I would see it as someone loyal, always ready to accompany your everyday life. A friend who stays with us—both at work and in moments of joy with loved ones.
And if denim were an island, it would be like Bali—where the sea is clear and blue, a place that feels like home to everyone, just as denim is loved by all.
Carved in Blue: Do you have a go-to denim piece you wear on repeat, or if you could design your dream piece—no limits—what would it be?
Eko: I have always enjoyed wearing Type 1 and Type 2 denim jackets. They carry a sense of classic style because of their history, yet their boxy cut feels very relevant to today’s era—perfectly fitting my body.
If I had the chance to design my own denim jacket, I would create a Type 2 using a 13 oz. denim blended with TENCEL™, giving it a fine and subtle touch. I would add patchwork details with traditional Japanese fabrics such as hickory, seigaiha and sashiko techniques. This jacket would reflect who I am: someone who loves history, yet stays relevant and connected to modern fashion trends.
Carved in Blue: What’s your first memory of falling in love with denim? Can you share the story of how you first started working within denim?
Eko: Back in 2007, I was deeply into heavy music metal, hardcore, post-hardcore and even emo. At that time, almost every band member I admired wore slim-fit or skinny denim from brands like Nudie Jeans, Cheap Monday, Ksubi and Imperial. Naturally, I followed the style of my musical idols.
That curiosity led me to research Indonesian local brands, and I discovered Petersaysdenim a Bandung-based label that had gone international. They supported the very bands I looked up to and even sold their products at the Vans Warped Tour, the biggest stage for heavy music culture. That inspired me to start collecting different kinds of denim, a passion that has stayed with me ever since.
In 2011, with that knowledge and taste for denim, I decided to join the marketing team at Gamatex, bringing my personal journey and love for denim into my professional path.
Carved in Blue: What’s something you recently learned about denim or sustainability that surprised or inspired you?
Eko: We recognize that sustainability is essential for the textile industry, especially denim. Our goal is to create products that not only deliver high quality but also prioritize environmental responsibility and the use of sustainable materials.
Around four to five years ago, we discovered TENCEL™, a fiber that allows functionality and sustainability to go hand in hand. Since then, we have committed ourselves to continuously developing and introducing eco-friendly denim products to both our local and export customers.
Carved in Blue: In your opinion, what makes a denim garment truly timeless?”
Eko: To me, denim follows a timeline of its own, distinct from any other fashion line. It is a fabric that has endured for centuries—born from function, transformed into fashion and yet never diminished by time. Denim carries the rare ability to adapt, to reshape itself across designs, cultures and generations.
It is more than just cloth; it is a testament to resilience, a bridge between history and modernity and a constant companion in the ever-changing journey of style.
Nikita Raman
Carved in Blue: If denim were a person, what would its personality be—and is there a song, city or piece of art you associate with it?
Nikita: If denim were a person, I’d imagine someone like Hiroshi Fujiwara—the streetwear legend and musician—a figure of quiet influence, versatility and endless layers. “Slumbers,” one of his albums, takes me back to my travels in Japan, from Tokyo to Kojima, exploring vintage denim shops and attempting indigo dye courses—where I quickly learned that indigo stains are a lifelong souvenir.
On the surface, denim feels effortlessly cool and approachable—like that friend who somehow looks good even when they just rolled out of bed. But the closer you look, the more fascinating it becomes: the texture of fades, the engineering of selvedge, the subtle irregularities of indigo. From an aesthetic angle, it’s beauty in simplicity; from a technical angle, it’s pure mastery in construction.
Denim’s personality is: versatile—it can be workwear, luxury, rebellion or uniform, shifting fluidly across worlds; layered—outwardly casual, inwardly precise and deeply considered; and effortlessly cool—it never shouts for attention, yet somehow shapes entire movements.
If I were to imagine denim speaking, it would carry the same balance of warmth and depth: “I’m easy to wear, but hard to forget. The more time you spend with me, the more I reveal… and don’t worry, I fade better than most people age.”
Carved in Blue: Do you have a go-to denim piece you wear on repeat, or if you could design your dream piece—no limits—what would it be?
Nikita: A denim pleated trouser made together with the Boss Ticino teams is my current favorite, but if I could design my dream piece, I’m still waiting for a pleated denim constructed in the spirit of Yohji Yamamoto—or even more so, a denim kimono with pleating and origami detailing. I love anything with pleats and origami, and I imagine this piece as something I could wear every day, watching the fabric evolve with time and movement.
Denim is a fabric that lives together with the wearer, and a kimono silhouette, with its timeless elegance, would only enhance that. It’s one of those rare garments that would look great with everything while telling its own story through daily wear. On my fantasy denim wish list? A kimono that folds like origami but ages like vintage selvedge. Maybe even a pair of jeans that pleat themselves depending on your mood—or a jacket engineered to drape like couture but fade like it’s lived a thousand lives. Pieces that sound impossible today but feel inevitable tomorrow.
Carved in Blue: What’s your first memory of falling in love with denim? Can you share the story of how you first started working within denim?
Nikita: My first job was at Lee Jeans, and honestly, it felt like being dropped into a secret world. I’ll never forget our denim designer unpacking huge boxes of wash developments—it was like Christmas morning, except instead of toys it was stacks of jeans. The funny part is, I was obsessed with the “rejects.” I’d wear them proudly, just to see people’s reactions—half the time they’d ask where I got them, and I’d laugh knowing they were the styles that didn’t make the cut. Then I discovered the Lee 101 storytelling, where denim’s heritage and authenticity really came alive. Between the thrill of those first boxes and the magic of storytelling, I was completely hooked.
Carved in Blue: What’s something you recently learned about denim or sustainability that surprised or inspired you?
Nikita: I’ve realized that areas like chemistry, the digital field and product development have a much bigger impact on sustainability than we often think. It’s not just about cost efficiency—the technical side also supports smarter and more intelligent design. What keeps me inspired is that I discover new perspectives and technologies almost every day that influence how denim can be made more responsibly. It’s also a reminder of how important it is to keep the dialogue going; sharing knowledge and learning from others is what keeps me motivated.
Carved in Blue: In your opinion, what makes a denim garment truly timeless?
Nikita: For me, a timeless piece starts with the fit; when it makes you look and feel great, you just want to live in it. It’s the one you reach for year after year, because it holds memories and keeps making new ones with you. Over time it softens, fades and picks up the marks of daily life, until it’s the piece you grab without thinking. I’d rather wear denim until it falls apart than let it go—and by then, it probably deserves to be framed. In the end, timeless denim is like a good friend: always there, low-maintenance and it just makes life easier.
Margaret Sam
Carved in Blue: If denim were a person, what would its personality be—and is there a song, city, or piece of art you associate with it?
Margaret: Denim is your dear childhood best friend: reliable, feels like home and comfort. The person you turn to for no-frills advice, and knows you better than anyone else, but can also tell you like it is.
Like denim, your friendship is made to last and hardwearing. They’re a consistent piece that stays in your wardrobe and fits forever. Denim is a staple.
The song “San Francisco Streets” by Sun Rai really reminds me of San Francisco, it’s dreamy and breezy, and reminds me of great Californian weather. In honor of the origins of Levi’s, California, this would be this song.
Carved in Blue: Do you have a go-to denim piece you wear on repeat, or if you could design your dream piece—no limits—what would it be?
Margaret: Sum London’s Denim Qing Vest and Denim Horse Face skirt, inspired by Qing Dynasty miners of the California Goldrush.
Also, a straight leg pair of Levi’s are my everyday jeans.
Carved in Blue: What’s your first memory of falling in love with denim? Can you share the story of how you first started working within denim?
Margaret: Seeing my dad’s late ’80s/early ’90s bleach washed trucker jacket in an old family photo. Seeing him young and stylish, and the timelessness of this piece which I still have, was inspiring. Partnering with TENCEL™ and Advance Denim on our Jia You 加油 capsule has made me fall in love with denim even more. Also, being surrounded by innovators and denim experts at Kingpins has influenced me greatly.
Carved in Blue: What’s something you recently learned about denim or sustainability that surprised or inspired you?
Margaret: When I discovered TENCEL™, it was surprising to learn that this innovative fiber is made from wood and sustainably sourced forests.
I thought; this fiber is so versatile. Soft but also when integrated into Advance Denim, it could be heavier raw denim. This was surprising and impressive.
Carved in Blue: In your opinion, what makes a denim garment truly timeless?
Margaret: Simplicity. Good fit and culturally thoughtful. I think we achieved this with the Jia You 加油 capsule.