Mill Memo: Inside Pakistan Manufacturers’ Eco Efforts Part 1
Denim mills are cleaning up jean production, and one of their moves is evolving raw material choices. Wood-based TENCEL™ fibers offers a lower impact alternative that comes with the added benefit of improved softness and durability.
Here, executives from AGI Denim, Artistic Denim Mills, Artistic Milliners, Azgard9, Crescent Bahuman, Diamond Denim by Sapphire, and Kassim Denim discuss how they are using TENCEL™ Lyocell and their climate action strategies.
AGI DENIM
Ali Tekin, R&D director
Carved in Blue: Could you give an overview of your latest collections that include TENCEL™ fibers including REFIBRA™ technology?
Ali: As a main goal, we are getting softness and smoothness from TENCEL™, but also it is one of the sustainable and eco-conscious fibers in our AW collection because of lower emissions, water impact and sustainable wood source. TENCEL™ originates from the renewable raw material wood, which is certified as compostable and biodegradable.
We are using LENZING™ ECOVERO™, TENCEL™ lyocell and modal, REFIBRA™ technology regenerated sustainable fibers blended with cotton. We are aiming to get softness married with authenticity. Additionally, we are developing “cotton-less” articles, which are helping to reduce cotton consumption. Reducing cotton means a significant reduction of farming water and chemical consumption
Under regenerated fiber blendings, we have authentic soft comfort stretch. Authenticity is important, but we need to feel natural softness also.
Shaping performance offering us more compression but also most of time we have stiff feeling, which we don’t prefer. TENCEL™ Modal fiber supports to get softness without losing compression.
We have indigo, black and some ecru denims with shaping features.
Also, we are using LENZING™ ECOVERO™ and REFIBRA™ fibers as a circular fiber and TENCEL™ from Lenzing.
This exclusive and innovative group of products have super soft hand feel of natural fibers.
Carved in Blue: Are you currently incorporating TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology or matte TENCEL™ into your denim?
Ali: We are using TENCEL™ Modal fiber with Indigo Color technology in two different forms. We have comfort stretch fabric with indigo color-dyed TENCEL™ Modal. It has different spinning technology to get mélange unique aesthetics. Indigo Modal technology avoids the need for all conventional processes such as chemicals, water and energy.
Additionally, we have pure indigo colored modal shaping denim. It helps to reduce the ecological footprint of denim fabrics and garments. Apart from softness and a sustainable approach, it has superior colorfastness.
Carved in Blue: What top three things is your mill doing to combat climate change?
Ali: As a water stewardship with our Refresh technology, after all denim processes, we collect all water in a wastewater plant and we purify all wastewater to get ready for new processes. This is a unique process for denim without consuming fresh water. Also, AGI Denim has a new range of color yarn-dyed denims together with refresh sustainable technology.
AGI is proud to add the first LEED-certified spinning unit in the country according to the industry 4.0 principles. Our state-of-the-art new LEED-certified spinning mill has the capacity to make 22 million kilograms of yarn annually. In addition, keeping with our zero-waste focus, we also have the technology to recycle spinning waste into making yarn.
Our Perfect Circle spinning technology helps to originate all fibers from recycled sources. Our fabric contains all fibers as a recycle form.
ARTISTIC DENIM MILLS
Mubashir Shakoor, senior manager marketing and sales
Carved in Blue: Could you give an overview of your latest collections that include TENCEL™ fibers including REFIBRA™ technology?
Mubashir: Lenzing fibers are integral part of our “Less Cotton” & Luxe collection.
Partnering with Recover, ADM has built up one of the largest recycling facilities in Pakistan, promoting the use of PCW & PIW fabrics. We introduced LENZING™ ECOVERO ™ and TENCEL™ lyocell and modal in our recycled cotton denim collection to give them maximum sustainability in fibers with unmatched luxurious feel.
Carved in Blue: Are you currently incorporating TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology or matte TENCEL™ into your denim?
Mubashir: We are seeing the demand and benefits, we are working on options to introduce TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology in our recycled cotton fabric collection.
Carved in Blue: What top three things is your mill doing to combat climate change?
Mubashir: As a vertically integrated mill from producing recycled cotton fiber from post-consumer and pre-consumer apparel waste, making yarn, fabric and garments out of the same facility, we are offering customers less carbon footprint with a complete circularity loop.
The use of solar power, high-efficiency power generation through natural gas with heat recovery system and state-of-the-art laundry equipped with latest machinery helped us design a low-impact state-of-the-art facility.
ARTISTIC MILLINERS
Baber Sultan, director
Carved in Blue: Could you give an overview of your latest collections that include TENCEL™ fibers including REFIBRA™ technology?
Baber: Currently, some of our most popular collections utilize TENCEL™ fibers. For example, Biovision IV uses TENCEL™ blended with Roica and cotton, while Circularity uses REFIBRA™ and fiber composed of post-industrial waste from our new Circular Park facility. The weight typically ranges from 9-12.5 oz.
Carved in Blue: Are you currently incorporating TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology or matte TENCEL™ into your denim?
Yes, we’re making good use of TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology, especially in our Zephyr line, and the response has been encouraging. We’ve developed fabrics of multiple weights (11-15 oz) and stretches (15-55 percent). Not only has TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology provided sustainability benefits, eliminating the need to dye, but it also gives the fabrics great rub fastness and color durability. We’re positioning for a high- to premium-level product and are getting a decent response. We’re also exploring matte TENCEL™, experimenting on how best to incorporate it. We see it being popular amongst clients looking for the ultra-soft feel of TENCEL™ along with low sheen.
Carved in Blue: What top three things is your mill doing to combat climate change?
Baber: As the first company from Pakistan to become member of the U.N. Business Ambition for 1.5°C, we’re proud of our commitment towards climate change solutions. One of the most important steps we’ve taken is to invest in and extensively utilize renewable energy. We have optimized our rooftop solar panel capacity to increase renewable energy share in our energy matrix, using 2.7 MW in our denim operations. Our wind farms currently generate 100 MW, providing power to the national grid and are also putting over USD $300 million into the development of run-of-the-river hydropower projects.
The second step we’re taking is constantly driving energy and water efficiency at every stage of production to help reduce carbon generating use of natural resources. Most of our facilities are LEED certified, which means we use up to 50 percent less energy compared to conventional buildings. We recycle around 85 percent of our water and utilize proprietary methods such as Crystal Clear 3.0 to reduce reliance on water, chemicals and energy, which coalesces with our commitment to Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals.
Thirdly, we have focused on circular and recyclable materials, many of which utilize TENCEL™ fiber technology to help reduce reliance on materials that damage our planet and oceans. We are also in the process of unveiling a new facility called Circular Park, which will recycle 500,000 kilograms of post industrial and textile waste generated from our mills back into the production loop every month. We are also making farm-level interventions with WWF-Pakistan to promote organic farming in the country, which helps preserve land quality and serve as carbon sinks.
We strive for continuous evolution of our model to balance profit and planet as coequal motives.
Ultimately, the way to do that is to ensure that nothing is ever truly wasted or dumped, and is instead indefinitely cycled back into production.
AZGARD9
Aamir Muhammad, general manager
Carved in Blue: Could you give an overview of your latest collections that include TENCEL™ fibers including REFIBRA™ technology?
Aamir: We are working on Fall ‘23 using TENCEL™ and REFIBRA™ technologies, blending with CiCLO, Tru Temp365, Coolmax EcoMade All Season, hemp and recycled cotton to address the circular economy without compromising performance and authenticity. This collection will bring soft thrills, comfort for all seasons and an authentic ‘80s cool look, which fulfills the true meaning of circularity.
Carved in Blue: Are you currently incorporating TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology or matte TENCEL™ into your denim?
Aamir: TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology is also part of our collection. With amazing wash effects, matte TENCEL™ is a great product when a customer is looking for authentic look, especially in blends more than 90 percent TENCEL™ and men’s range. We are also continuing with TENCEL™ Modal with Black eco color technology; a lot of customers are asking for sustainable stay black. Our experience is vivid because of the brands we are already working with. And we know the market trends that lead to a significant demand. So we are evolving better than ever.
Carved in Blue: What top three things is your mill doing to combat climate change?
Aamir: Our planting drive is the most meaningful implementation in combating climate change. We have been planting trees within the company and reaching out to different organizations across the country for the purpose. We are also producing 100 percent renewable steam energy from biomass, with zero fossil fuels, and reduced 20 percent of greenhouse gases in 2021, which is a magnificent climate-positive impact.
CRESCENT BAHUMAN
Rizwan Akbar, assistant vice president and Zaki Saleemi, vice president
Carved in Blue: Could you give an overview of your latest collections that include TENCEL™ fibers including REFIBRA™ technology?
Rizwan: Cellulosic alternative fibers are taking a center stage when it comes to developing responsible fabrics. CBL’s dedication towards use of TENCEL™ fibers is divided currently into two different segments. One is the use of REFIBRA™ technology, and second is the usage of carbon-zero Tencel™; these are being used in blends of hemp, post-consumer recycled waste cotton, PIW recycled cotton, Repreve and eco elastane-based fabrics composites.
To address the common goal of saving water, energy and resources, these blends are dyed with the Naya dyeing technology that consumes up to 99 percent less water during the process.
Being the only vertical setup in Pakistan under one roof—where we can start from the fiber and have ready-made garments as end product within same premises—gives us leverage to utilize such blends execution perfectly.
Our focus on offering zero-cotton based products have been made possible by blending TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ fibers with hemp and recycled materials, and is quite successful.
The future approach for CBL is to bring transparency solutions to the usage of these materials and their supply chain and our work in progress with companies like PaperTale and FibreTrace shall be the stepping stones towards this commitment.
Carved in Blue: Are you currently incorporating TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology or matte TENCEL™ into your denim?
Rizwan: We have successfully made a test fabric using TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology and have some very promising feedbacks from our clientele. This is used as an alternative to indigo dyeing, which helps to reduce the carbon footprint at mill level to new lows.
In terms of experience, one challenge that is faced during the usage of TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology is to keep the natural denim feel intact, as we see modal is a lustrous fiber and has better drape than cotton-blended fabric.
Furthermore, we are planning to launch a capsule collection based on TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology for multiple weight options, aesthetics and looks.
Zaki: The trick [with TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology] was to keep the denim look in tact, as we see modal is a lustrous fiber and has more fall than conventional cotton fabric. Also, the indigo dyed modal color shows more purplish cast than a conventional denim fabric. So to overcome these challenges, we have made the fabric with mixing some cotton fiber with modal and make it in a classical tighter construction where the weft grin through plays an important part.
Our developed fabric is a men’s fabric rigid quality with STF finish, so we have tried to keep it as raw as possible to neutralize the modal sheen and drape effect. The composition is 54 percent modal, 46 percent cotton, the after wash weight is 14 oz., the finish is STF and the shade is natural.
Carved in Blue: What top three things is your mill doing to combat climate change?
Rizwan: We are increasing the share of the renewable energy portion in our energy mix. We have completed several energy conservation projects to reduce our GHG emission, for example replacement of conventional lights with LEDs, energy-efficient motors in the sewing factory and heat recovery system on our waste heat from several sources.
We are working on several water reduction and reuse projects to reduce our water footprint.
CBL has a rich history when it comes to planting activities, and every year we are increasing the number of trees by thousands in our facility.
DIAMOND DENIM BY SAPPHIRE
Maurizio Baldi, consultant
Carved in Blue: Could you give an overview of your latest collections that include TENCEL™ fibers including REFIBRA™ technology?
Maurizio: We are working with TENCEL™ in two areas:
Hyperstretch fabrics for skinny/shaper fits. All fabrics are cotton and TENCEL™-blended warp and DualFX weft for best stretch and growth performances, and fabrics are available in several indigo shades.
Comfort stretch – All fabrics with ring cotton warp and 100 percent TENCEL™ weft or TENCEL™/cotton blend; we have the option for TENCEL™/hemp blended. Usually we are working with 12.5-14 oz, and fabrics are available in a medium pure indigo shade.
We are offering two cords with TENCEL™ pile weft for a shiny and elegant aspect.
Carved in Blue: What top three things is your mill doing to combat climate change?
Maurizio: Reducing Diamond’s water consumption with new dyeing and finishing technology and recovering steam.
Using recycled cotton whenever possible.
Investigating new yarn technology, i.e. new yarn made from used garment recycling.
KASSIM DENIM
Imtiaz Ishaq, general manager marketing & sales
Carved in Blue: Could you give an overview of your latest collections that include TENCEL™ fibers including REFIBRA™ technology?
Imtiaz: Sustainable innovation is our primary focus. The traditional fashion industry often neglects mother nature, and unfortunately revolves around the idea of “Take, make and waste,” i.e. takeresources from nature, make desired product for use, and ultimately wasteit, and repeat the cycle over and over again. We, at Kassim Denim, are continuously striving to alter this cycle to “Take, make and remake and remake” because waste isn’t waste, until you waste it.
Products like REFIBRA™ technology are quite aligned with our strategy to develop the products which are friendly to the environment, and they are not only innovative but they also add value to our customer’s product portfolio. Lenzing is our strategic supply chain partner, and we have recently launched a capsule collection of fabrics using TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ Lyocell, TENCEL™ Lyocell and Modal, blended with few other sustainable fibers like PCW and PIW cotton, EcoMade Lycra and T400 to develop 100 percent sustainable compositions.
Carved in Blue: Are you currently incorporating TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology or matte TENCEL™ into your denim?
Imtiaz: TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology and matte TENCEL™ are both quite fascinating concepts. The last couple of seasons, we put our weight on TENCEL™ Modal Black (no fade), and now we are aiming to include both of these new fibers in our upcoming Denim by PV-Berlin collection.
Carved in Blue: What top three things is your mill doing to combat climate change?
Imtiaz: Keeping ourselves align with the United Nations mission of the Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action, the three key areas on which we are committedly working are:
100 percent green energy: To substantially reduce the carbon emission, we have started shifting to green energy, and at the moment, 50 percent of our energy requirements are fulfilled by green solar energy. Our future goal is to shift to 100 percent green energy, no later than 2030.
Zero liquid discharge:Water is one of the key natural resources which is heavily impacted by the fashion industry. In addition to our state-of-the-art effluent treatment plant, we have initiated to setup a water recycling plant as we are aiming for zero liquid discharge. This plant will be fully functional by 2025.
100 percent sustainable products: Ambitious goals requires ambitious steps. We don’t consider “sustainability” a matter of choice. It’s our responsibility, and it is high time that all the stakeholders own it. We have owned it and no later than 2025, every single meter we will produce will be a certified sustainable product. We won’t be producing any single meter using conventional raw material. We know it’s a quite bold statement, but we believe extraordinary steps need to be taken in order to provide a better place for our future generations.