Mill Update: Türkiye Manufacturers Talk Denim Innovation and Trends
Due to their position in the supply chain, denim mills have a finger on the pulse of the category’s demand, trajectory and developments. In this series, Carved in Blue is catching up with mills around the globe to get their insights on sales performance, impactful innovations and projections for this year.
Here, Türkiye-based mills Bossa, Kipaş and Maritaş Denim provide their denim update.
BOSSA
Besim Özek, strategy & business development director
Carved in Blue: How did your mill close 2023? What were the highs and lows of last year? How has 2024 been so far for your company?
Besim: In 2023, overall business conditions were satisfactory, despite challenges in the textile market within Türkiye. Despite the industry’s downturn, Bossa managed to distinguish itself positively. As the new year, 2024, commences, there’s a prevailing sense of optimism and anticipation. There’s a collective hope and belief that 2024 will surpass the previous year. Already, there are early indicators suggesting that 2024 holds promise for fruitful opportunities and growth.
Carved in Blue: What are the new opportunities of the current period in the denim industry, and where do you see TENCEL™ fibers fitting these?
Besim: Every day, the utilization of recycled materials in denim fabric production is on the rise. TENCEL™ fibers emerge as a reliable partner fiber in this endeavor. While mechanically recycled fibers often suffer from poor quality, being short and weak, TENCEL™ fibers step in as a solution, significantly enhancing the performance of fabrics even with subpar fibers. Moreover, chemical recycling methods are gaining traction as a viable alternative. It’s foreseeable that in the next decade or so, textile-to-textile recycling will become a dominant conversation in the industry. In this landscape, the solutions offered by Lenzing and REFIBRA™ technology could truly be game-changing, paving the way for a more sustainable future in textile manufacturing.
Carved in Blue: What’s the most interesting or exciting recent development you have seen in the industry from other companies or institutes? And what are you most excited about internally?
Besim: The denim industry is increasingly drawn to sustainability solutions, particularly regenerative farming practices, which hold great promise. Bossa’s production of brown cotton is receiving enthusiastic reception from the industry, with numerous brands opting for these articles in their collections. Furthermore, the anticipation for 2024 is heightened by Bossa’s Digital Product Passport solution and QR technology, which fill us with excitement as we look forward to the year ahead.
Carved in Blue: Could you share three predictions for the denim industry in 2024?
Besim: The market trend is shifting towards the adoption of new E.U. regulations, with companies striving to align themselves accordingly, marking a significant shift in the industry. The Digital Product Passport is set to take center stage in discussions throughout 2024, presenting a new challenge for all stakeholders, from brands to fabric and garment producers. Additionally, global inflation poses a considerable challenge, with price fluctuations expected across various sectors. While cotton prices currently fluctuate within a narrow range, this range may widen as we progress through 2024, adding further complexity to market dynamics.
KIPAŞ
Yücel Bayram, sales and marketing director
Carved in Blue: How did your mill close 2023? What were the highs and lows of last year? How has 2024 been so far for your company?
Yücel: The earthquake that occurred in Türkiye and Syria in 2023 also affected the denim market in Türkiye. Although this process slowed us down for about two months, we managed to improve the process and keep the situation stable with the quick decisions and actions that we took as Kipaş. We would like to express our gratitude to our valuable customers and partners for their patience and support.
Globally, although the recession had a negative impact on the market, companies which could take fast and flexible actions and made collaborations had been able to manage this process well, and we, as Kipaş, managed to keep our sales in line with our targets. At the same time, as the sustainability targets of yarn manufacturers and denim mills gained momentum towards circularity, many denim mills began to make their investments in this direction.
Despite the recession, we could fulfill our production capacity and the first quarter of 2024 is going in parallel with 2023. Our expectation for 2024 is that sales will continue in the same direction as 2023.
As Kipaş, we care about responsible production. We are conscious in all steps in production, from soil to final product and the chemical usage.
By using certified recycled materials and regenerative cotton, we offer recyclable solutions with the 100 percent Recycled and Dual Max technologies that we had developed.
Carved in Blue: What are the new opportunities of the current period in the denim industry, and where do you see TENCEL™ fibers fitting these?
Yücel: We foresee that one of the major changes in global trends are in fits and silhouettes. This increases the importance of different hand feels, alternative constructions and looks. In this direction, using different fibers and having collaborations increases our ability to innovate and to be able to have variety in touches. Still keeping the authentic look which is going on the market but reinterpreting it with enriched fiber technologies creates new opportunities for a fashion heritage story and new silhouettes of the market.
On the other side of the coin, another rising trend is raw and smart looks, more a kind of tailored aspects.
In order to meet the need for diversity in the market, from authentic to premium looks, the use of TENCEL™ fibers and the collaborations with Lenzing get an important role to create alternatives on the fits where soft hand feel becomes important. Currently, we are working on an exciting project with Lenzing and it will be launched soon.
Carved in Blue: What’s the most interesting or exciting recent development you have seen in the industry from other companies or institutes? And what are you most excited about internally?
Yücel: As Kipaş, our main purpose is to offer customers innovative and conscious solutions based on their needs. In this direction, it is encouraging that the diversity of fibers is increasing so that it helps us to create conscious options in the industry, and that it can free the soil.
Using recycled materials made from 100 percent post-industrial cotton waste gives us a chance to reduce the negative impacts of cotton farming like water consumption, CO2 emissions, and intensive land use and gives a new life to textile waste. This allows us to create a complete circular solution.
By collaborating with our industrial partners, we managed to improve our recycled fiber qualities by reducing the negative effect of the shredding process.
Carved in Blue: Could you share three predictions for the denim industry in 2024?
Yücel: While investment strategies of denim mills go into the direction of “measurable, ethical, mindful of people and planet vision,” the increasing demand on functionality and comfort due to the consumer habits and the participation of Gen Z in business life brings the need of the diversity.
In this direction, recycled, regenerated and circular solutions are gaining importance in sustainability. With the investments and innovations we have made, we increase the use of recycled materials and we offer recyclable solutions with the technologies that we created such as 100 percent Recycled technology and Dual Max. Additionally, by using regenerative cotton, we are aiming to have a role to play in preserving Mother Earth for future generations.
While marble look, salt and pepper effects were active in denim trends, the demand for slub patterns and slubby authentic looks is increasing. The fact that Kipaş has an integrated spinning facility enables us to take fast action in this regard; we responded quickly to the market, and that let us provide a wide range to the customers.
For a few seasons, the interest in rigid and low elasticity products has been at the forefront in in-store demands, and currently we see that there is a slight increase in elasticity levels. Garments produced with Dual Max technology have a high elasticity and offer a great recovery in shape that does not deteriorate over time or use. It is “user friendly,” with no baggy knees and keeping their shaping feature.
The pricing in the market has been at low levels for a while, however raw material prices have started to increase again. In the recent period, with a smooth transition driven by demand, the pressure on prices has decreased slightly; we are predicting that there will be supply and demand equilibrium in the recent time.
MARITAŞ DENIM
Fatih Kesim, deputy general manager of Maritaş Denim
Carved in Blue: How did your mill close 2023? What were the highs and lows of last year? How has 2024 been so far for your company?
Fatih: 2023 was a challenging year for all the industry but especially for Turkish players who have been affected by the massive earthquake on the eastern part of Türkiye. After the earthquake we continue to support our workers who [face] challenges by the extraordinary circumstances every day. Our main subject is the people and keep them in their hometowns. It was the major challenge of us.
On the global market, still we have been facing up post-pandemic effects, fluctuations on raw material prices, rising inflation rates, then geopolitical conflicts rocketing energy and transportation costs. Prices have already hit energy-intensive industries with high manufacturing costs.
For consumers, the resulting cost-of-living crisis just started rising costs, and softening demand affected the stores and sales.
So I would say it was a tough year! But we survived perfectly. Challenges are not meant to stop you; they are meant to teach and develop you. We gave all our focus on innovations and sustainability. We realized lighthouse projects such as Regenerative Cotton Project in Harran. We harvested on Oct. 23 and got regenagri certificates, which is very first in the area. 2024 will be the second phase of the project and we will expand it.
We have started 2024 with full of energy and positivity. We will keep working hard and taking smart steps ahead to a sustainable future by our actions and collections. We are the company who redefines denim.
Our goal is to collaborate the brands and partners that stands united for the better industry, better world.
Carved in Blue: What are the new opportunities of the current period in the denim industry, and where do you see TENCEL™ fibers fitting these?
Fatih: Consumers are increasingly demanding sustainable and eco-friendly products. Incorporating TENCEL™ fibers into denim production allows brands to offer more sustainable options to environmentally conscious consumers, and there is a growing demand for denim that not only looks good but also offers performance features such as stretch, moisture-wicking and breathability. TENCEL™ fibers can be easily blended with cotton or other fibers to create denim fabrics with unique textures, finishes and dyeing effects, offering designers greater creative freedom and flexibility.
Consumers are increasingly interested in knowing the origins of the products they buy and the sustainability practices of the brands they support. TENCEL™ fibers are traceable and sourced from certified forests, allowing brands to provide transparency and assurance regarding the environmental and social impact of their denim products.
Overall, TENCEL™ fibers presents an opportunity for denim brands to meet the evolving needs and preferences of consumers for sustainable, high-performance and innovative denim products, while also supporting efforts towards a more sustainable and circular fashion industry.
Carved in Blue: What’s the most interesting or exciting recent development you have seen in the industry from other companies or institutes? And what are you most excited about internally?
Fatih: Every product produced with innovative and environmental awareness promises a future for us and the industry. As Maritaş Denim, we redefine our future and our industry with technology, and we aim to walk together with people and organizations that have made this their mission.
As Maritaş Denim, the patented environmentally friendly products we develop in our R&D and product development centers always take us one step forward.
Our Terra Denim concept, which is clay dyed, completely natural, and does not contain those harmful chemicals, brings together the color spectrum of nature with denim products.
Cycle FX, our recyclable, high-elastic product group, offers the market a new solution for sustainable work in stretch products.
The regenerative cotton project we started last year in the Harran Plain, where we will realize phase two this year, aims to raise awareness among local farmers and encourage regenerative cotton production practices in our own lands through close supply. In addition, the project carried out together with Harran University and Gaziantep University sheds light on the sector as it is the first regenerative cotton project initiated in the region in collaboration with universities and industry.
Similar works we carry out within Maritaş Denim continue to excite me and the whole team.
Carved in Blue: Could you share three predictions for the denim industry in 2024?
Fatih: Sustainability and circularity are now inevitable for brands. With an increased focus on environmental concerns, sustainable and eco-friendly denim options were gaining popularity. This includes the use of regenerative cotton, organic cotton, recycled materials and environmentally friendly production processes.
Increasing temperatures and changes in seasonal periods, which are effective globally, have directly affected clothing habits in trends. Denim fabric manufacturers meet the needs of brands with products that have high wearing comfort and are also seasonless.
Additionally, unique washing and coating applications will be in demand for garment manufacturers. Innovations and sustainable alternatives regarding denim washing and finishing processes will continue to be a trend.
Close supply will be the most important keyword of 2024 and the coming periods. Bringing a different perspective with innovative products can be an advantage for close manufacturers.