Mills Update: Pakistan Producers on Sustainability and Trending Styles Part 2
Over the past few years, the denim industry has had ups and downs as consumer and market demand ebbs and flows.
With the first half of the year in the rearview, Carved in Blue is checking in with denim mills to get their take on how 2024 is shaping up. Are sales rising or falling? What is driving demand? Which trends are taking off? And how are they addressing market needs? Read on to hear insights from Indigo, Neela by Sapphire Fibres and U.S. Denim.
INDIGO
Shiraz Masood, director
Carved in Blue: How has your company performed in the first half of 2024?
Shiraz: The first half of 2024 has been marked by strong growth, with notable increases in both production volumes and overall performance. This upward trajectory has been fueled by accelerated production timelines and rising market demand.
Carved in Blue: How would you describe the current demand, and has it changed in recent months?
Shiraz: The demand has increasingly favored comfort-focused fabrics, including both stretch and non-stretch options with a soft, luxurious hand feel. These attributes have become significantly more sought-after in recent months.
Carved in Blue: What has surprised you the most about 2024 so far?
Shiraz: It’s been encouraging to see our strong growth this year, alongside the evolving trends in high-street fashion. While skinny fits were once the norm, there’s now a shift towards more comfort, non-stretch fabrics and shimmering surfaces that bring an element of evening sophistication.
Carved in Blue: Which trends or styles do you see gaining traction, and how are you building fabrics to suit these looks?
Shiraz: We’re observing increasing interest in striped, color denim, canvas, jacquard, weave intelligence fabrics and lustrous finishes. To meet this demand, we are focusing on developing products that align with these emerging trends and enhance these styles.
Carved in Blue: Could you describe your latest collection launches?
Shiraz: Our latest collection, Denim Nexus AW 25/26, seamlessly merges innovation with sustainability, offering versatile pieces that combine vintage charm with contemporary design. The collection showcases rich textures, shimmering surfaces and deep, nostalgic tones—all crafted from sustainable fibers and designed with circular principles to reduce environmental impact.
Carved in Blue: What are your predictions for the second half?
Shiraz: In the upcoming months, we’ll be stitching sustainability into every seam, with a focus on circularity and innovative collaborations. By aligning with global trends and forging impactful partnerships, we’re set to not just keep up with the denim world but to lead it towards a more responsible and inspired future.
NEELA BY SAPPHIRE FIBRES
Shayan Abdullah, managing director
Carved in Blue: Has the first half of 2024 been up, down or flat for your company?
Shayan: The first half of the year went well, as we focused on innovations and meeting seasonal demands. It was also challenging to maintain our targets due to uncertainty in the industry, but overall, we’re holding up reasonably well as a standalone fabric mill in the region.
Carved in Blue: How would you describe the current demand, and has it changed in recent months?
Shayan: If we are talking about the current demand, it is different from what it used to be. The brands are not looking for complicated ingredients and fabrics. The focus on less is more is quite evident in the brand requirements and our market research. The ‘90s era is back in trend with more focus on laundry while adopting the minimalist fashion approaches.
Carved in Blue: What has surprised you the most about 2024 so far?
Shayan: The surprising aspect of 2024 is the 360-degree turn in denim fashion trends. Previously, the standout features in denim were aggressive salt-and-pepper and marble aesthetics, which were the core of many collections. In 2024, the focus has shifted to minimalism and sustainability, inspired by the ‘90s era. Loose, baggy fits, laundry-focused washes and subtle (but not too flat) denim aesthetics have now taken center stage.
Carved in Blue: Which trends or styles do you see gaining traction, and how are you building fabrics to suit these looks?
Shayan: We are going back to the ‘90s era now. This trend has gained traction, whether it’s fabric aesthetics, laundry, fits or silhouettes. Minimal aesthetics, long laundry washes with wider, high-rise, barrel and baggier outfits is the new fashion now. The fashion is tracing back to the era of hip-hop culture and street style while advancing in the domain of sustainability.
In line with market demands, our core collection is designed to meet sustainability standards while staying on trend. Featuring functional fabrics with a subtle appearance and an incredibly soft hand feel, our upcoming collection has it all covered.
Carved in Blue: Could you describe your latest collection launches?
Shayan: Certainly. Our upcoming collection, Blue Wonders, showcases how a simple fabric can be transformed from ordinary to extraordinary. The collection features summer shades, a ‘90s vibe and a strong emphasis on sustainability using natural and regenerated materials. This collection will be presented at Kingpins Amsterdam in October 2024.
Carved in Blue: What are your predictions for the second half?
Shayan: Denim is a versatile and universally loved fashion, appealing to all age groups and genders. However, it remains a volatile market, influenced by uncertainties like the pandemic and the ongoing Ukraine-Russia war, which have significantly impacted trends and buying behaviors.
Amid these challenges, and with the introduction of key sustainability legislations in the E.U., U.S. and U.K., expectations have risen. Brands and supply chain partners are now aligned in prioritizing sustainability and ethical manufacturing, with a focus on traceability and transparency. We also anticipate more collaborations with industry leaders to promote sustainable practices.
U.S. DENIM
Intizar Ali, general manager research & business development
Carved in Blue: Has the first half of 2024 been up, down or flat for your company?
Intizar: The first half has started with a very positive note as brands have placed handsome volumes with us. Our new innovations and flexibility to service the business has contributed a lot in it.
Carved in Blue: How would you describe the current demand, and has it changed in recent months?
Intizar: Demand in the first half was much better as compared to the last quarter of year 2023. We have seen an upward sales trend from our key customers in the USA and Europe. Further, sustainable practices now became the essential part of the product—either eco-friendly techniques or Regen cotton/regenerative fibers.
Carved in Blue: What has surprised you the most about 2024 so far?
Intizar: Volumes and product pricing.
Carved in Blue: Which trends or styles do you see gaining traction, and how are you building fabrics to suit these looks?
Intizar: In general, brands are moving towards rigid fabrics—100 percent cotton or blended with regenerative fibers—majorly, but demand of comfort stretch is also there. The change which we are seeing is crunchy character is moving toward modern authentic looks with less crunch, comparatively lighter weights, retro slubs and soft hand feel.
Carved in Blue: Could you describe your latest collection launches?
Intizar: Our FW-25/26 collection Zen is mainly focused on natural fibers like cotton, hemp and linen with authenticity as a main contributor with reference to aesthetics having a diversified range of shades, weights and stretch. Along with this, we have a complete range of premium fabrics from zero cotton to blended denim with regenerative fibers. We have also launched our own grown hemp Sativa ReJean.
Carved in Blue: What are your predictions for the second half?
Intizar: We forsee a continued growth in the denim business with challenging price targets from brands.