Mills Update: Pakistan Producers on Trade Strategies and TENCEL™ Developments
In a time of trade volatility, brands are shifting their sourcing strategies to guard against tariffs. Denim manufacturers are soldiering on, leaning on innovation and their internal capabilities to drive business while also keeping a watchful eye on the situation.
Ahead of Kingpins Show Amsterdam in April, Carved in Blue is catching up with denim mills to discuss the sourcing landscape, their latest launches and where denim trends are headed for Fall/Winter 2026. Here, executives from AGI Denim, Crescent Bahuman Limited, Kassim and Naveena Denim Mills share how they are navigating the current trade environment and how they are using TENCEL™ in their collections.
AGI DENIM
Rebecca Larsen, senior business development manager
Carved in Blue: Tariffs are top of mind right now for the industry. How are trade policies impacting your business—particularly in the U.S.?
Rebecca: With ongoing shifts and uncertainty in trade policy, we have seen changes in sourcing strategies, continued cost pressure and a growing need for flexibility, speed and innovation. Pakistan has been a top sourcing destination for some time now, but we are now seeing increased movement from our existing client base and growing interest from prospective clients looking to diversify their supply chain. These requests take many forms, including increased demand for vertical integration, more capacity allocation, expansion into fashion and more technical styles and higher export volumes to regions like Vietnam and Bangladesh. Some of these shifts have been occurring for some time, while others appear more immediate and urgent. Overall, the impact to our region has been mostly positive, but we will continue to monitor the U.S. economic situation and remain adaptable to the evolving demands of both our customers and end consumers.
Carved in Blue: What do you expect consumers will be looking for in Fall/Winter 2026? How are you developing denim to meet their expected wants?
Rebecca: Fall/Holiday is usually the biggest season for most U.S. clients as they prepare for back-to-school, seasonal drops and new program launches. On the sales side, women’s divisions are requesting heavy, dense and structured comfort stretch fabrics, while men’s divisions continue to favor higher stretch buckets. We are, however, seeing an uptick in demand for rigid or rigid-looking fabrics, driven by trends like baggies, barrels and loose fits on the men’s side. Kids’ remains highly cost-sensitive, while still offering something of value and durability to their consumer. Requests for novelty and innovation never stop, and we plan to showcase in several ways, whether that’s through first-to-market fibers, new shades, new weaves or new finishes.
Carved in Blue: What collections are you debuting at Kingpins Amsterdam this April? Do any of your textiles incorporate TENCEL™ Lyocell and/or Modal?
Rebecca: Our crown jewel is our state-of-the-art spinning facility, where each season begins. Our advanced technology and cutting-edge machinery empower us to excel in R&D. This also allows us to bring new fibers to the market while continuing to innovate with existing fibers like TENCEL™. Our collection is typically divided into categories focusing on vintage ’70s and ’80s Americana, Japanese slub, yarn clarity—ranging from highly aggressive to beautifully refined, new shades, luxe fibers like silk and cashmere and the latest and greatest in performance.
This season, we are incorporating TENCEL™ beyond just drapey lightweights. We’re excited to showcase a collection that blends TENCEL™’s softness with bold, authentic denim character. As TENCEL™ remains a coveted fiber in the denim industry, we are moving beyond the conventional refined look and introducing articles with high-contrast, visible slub characters, such as multi-count and Japanese slub effects. Additionally, we’ve explored nostalgic ’70s and ’80s aesthetics, incorporating highs and lows in salt-and-pepper effects, blended with an open-end character to achieve a cottonized TENCEL™ feel. At AGI, we always look forward to collaborating with our strong partners like Lenzing to deliver collections that are better than the last!
CRESCENT BAHUMAN LIMITED (CBL)
Aurangzeb Shafi, managing director
Carved in Blue: Tariffs are top of mind right now for the industry. How are trade policies impacting your business—particularly in the U.S.?
Aurangzeb: Tariffs and shifting trade policies have added complexity not just for us, but for the entire industry, especially in the U.S. market. Higher duties drive brands to rethink sourcing and production strategies. However, long-term partnerships with committed brands help mitigate some of these impacts. That said, we must continuously optimize our supply chain, collaborate with raw material suppliers and develop strategic solutions to absorb added costs. Prioritizing sustainability and innovation over short-term cost pressures allows us to create value through advanced processes and alternative materials, ensuring long-term competitiveness.
Carved in Blue: What do you expect consumers will be looking for in Fall/Winter 2026? How are you developing denim to meet their expected wants?
Aurangzeb: For F/W 2026, consumers will be looking for denim that feels as good as it looks. The season marks a bold return to statement denim, high-impact finishes and fabrics that are comfortable, functional and built to last. Sustainability will be non-negotiable, with a growing preference for recycled and biodegradable materials. We also see demand rising for adaptive stretch, thermoregulating fabrics and rich textures that bring a fresh yet authentic feel. To stay ahead, we’re developing denim that moves effortlessly, lasts longer and has a lower environmental impact, because the future of denim isn’t just about style, it’s about responsibility too.
Carved in Blue: What collections are you debuting at Kingpins Amsterdam this April? Do any of your textiles incorporate TENCEL™ Lyocell and/or Modal?
Aurangzeb: This April at Kingpins, we are working on a lot of new concepts and believe that the latest collection pushes the boundaries of what denim can be, focusing on versatility, style and responsibility.
The collection covers the following.
Zenith, our seasonal concept,is all about bringing the best of denim that is to be used for A/W 2026. Textures bring denim to life, adding depth, dimension and a distinct character to every fabric. From the rugged, organic feel of slub and the rich, irregular weave of crosshatch to the sharp precision of hi-definition twill, each texture tells its own story.
Authenticfeatures fabrics that exhibit a rich indigo base with natural fading, well-worn whiskering and lived-in patina, all of which are hallmarks of genuine denim aging. The structure of non-stretch fabric, visible twill definition reinforces the characters of authentic vintage denim. New Authentic also borders around super soft hand feel, and that is achievable with the use of TENCEL™ Lyocell blends for softer feel and sleek touch.
Modern Stretch embraces individuality, inclusivity and sustainability, redefining the role of stretch beyond traditional skinny jeans. Modern Stretch also delivers an authentic denim aesthetic while offering superior stretch, durability, recovery and breathability through the introduction of new stretch techniques that redefine the renewable material usage.
Lightweight denim has evolved from a novelty to a necessity, adapting to trans-seasonal wear and shifting climate realities. Ranging from 6 oz. to 11.25 oz., these fabrics include 100 percent cotton, different fiber blends and TENCEL™ blends, with or without stretch. Versatile and breathable, they seamlessly transition across bottoms, tops and dresses, delivering effortless, year-round wear. Lightweight denim redefines versatility, offering a softer, cooler alternative without compromising on style or durability.
More than ever, TENCEL™ Lyocell and Modal are central to our innovation, helping us craft denim that looks great, feels amazing and aligns with the future of responsible fashion.
KASSIM
Imtiaz Ishaq, director marketing
Carved in Blue: Tariffs are top of mind right now for the industry. How are trade policies impacting your business—particularly in the U.S.?
Imtiaz: Trade policies and tariffs remain a critical factor in shaping global denim sourcing strategies, particularly in the U.S. market. With potential tax implications on imports from China, Mexico and Canada, we anticipate a shift in business towards South Asia, given its competitive advantages. However, the situation is still uncertain, and we are keeping a close watch on these changes.
To stay ahead, we are actively diversifying our raw material supply chain to ensure flexibility and resilience in sourcing. By maintaining multiple supply options and optimizing efficiencies, we are well-positioned to adapt to market shifts and continue delivering high-quality, sustainable denim solutions.
Carved in Blue: What do you expect consumers will be looking for in Fall/Winter 2026? How are you developing denim to meet their expected wants?
Imtiaz: For Fall/Winter 2026, we anticipate consumers will focus on comfort, versatility and sustainability in their denim choices. The demand for rigid and comfort-stretch denim will continue, with a strong emphasis on sustainable materials and innovative color development. Dark and bright tones will be popular, bringing a fresh look to seasonal collections.
To meet these expectations, we are creating denim with innovative fiber blends, eco-friendly dyeing techniques and advanced performance features, all while staying committed to quality and sustainability.
Carved in Blue: What collections are you debuting at Kingpins Amsterdam this April? Do any of your textiles incorporate TENCEL™ Lyocell and/or Modal?
Imtiaz: At Kingpins Amsterdam this April, we are excited to present our latest collection, developed to align with evolving market trends while prioritizing innovation, sustainability and premium aesthetics. This range features refined rigid and comfort-stretch fabrics, vintage-inspired textures and performance-driven denim, all designed with a strong commitment to eco-conscious materials.
TENCEL™ Lyocell and Modal play a key role in our collection, enhancing softness, durability and breathability. These fibers contribute to a luxurious drape, improved moisture management and a reduced environmental footprint, reinforcing our dedication to responsible denim production.
NAVEENA DENIM MILLS (NDM)
Aydan Tüzün, senior vice president – sales and marketing
Carved in Blue: What do you expect consumers will be looking for in Fall/Winter 2026? How are you developing denim to meet their expected wants?
Aydan: Looking ahead to Fall/Winter 2026, we anticipate that consumers will continue prioritizing sustainability, comfort and authenticity in denim. In response, our collection integrates several innovative developments. On the sustainability front, we are utilizing responsibly sourced fibers such as TENCEL™, LENZING™ ECOVERO™, Marmara Hemp and Bio-Derived Lycra, alongside regenerative, recycled and organic cotton. These fibers align with our commitment to reducing environmental impact while maintaining premium quality.
In terms of comfort and functionality, our latest fabric innovations focus on achieving the perfect balance between flexibility and structure. Flex-Ease ensures enhanced movement and wearability, while FitSense incorporates adaptive fit technologies for superior stretch and recovery. Our Dualistic concept introduces versatile denim solutions that offer both performance and style, while Lush elevates softness with a luxurious touch.
For those seeking authentic vintage aesthetics, our Retrosoft and Retrotech developments bring the past into the present. Retrosoft focuses on achieving a vintage look through carefully curated textures and finishes, while Retrotech combines cutting-edge techniques with traditional denim character.
Carved in Blue: What collections are you debuting at Kingpins Amsterdam this April? Do any of your textiles incorporate TENCEL™ Lyocell and/or Modal?
Aydan: At Kingpins Amsterdam, we will be presenting our latest developments under the Retrosoft collection, which is designed to merge vintage aesthetics with contemporary innovation. This collection follows two distinct product directions. The first focuses on rigid and low-elasticity denim with a crackled, vintage-inspired appearance. The second introduces stretch denim with an elasticity range of 35 percent to 50 percent, featuring slub textures that enhance the fabric’s vintage character. Additionally, the collection includes a selection of crosshatch structures and new multiwarp developments, offering depth and complexity to the overall look. Our ongoing research in dyeing techniques has also led to the introduction of new special colors.
Incorporating TENCEL™ Lyocell and Modal into our textiles allows us to optimize their natural advantages. We carefully balance these fibers with cotton and other natural materials to enhance softness, durability and performance. TENCEL™ Lyocell contributes to a smooth, refined hand feel while improving the fabric’s strength and longevity. Meanwhile, the use of TENCEL™ Modal creates a luxurious touch, making the denim more comfortable without compromising its structure. We also integrate TENCEL™ fibers to achieve a distinctive marble and vintage aesthetic, adding depth to the fabric’s overall appearance.
We highlight the inclusion of LENZING™ ECOVERO™, a sustainable viscose alternative that ensures traceability and eco-conscious production. Derived from certified forests and controlled sources like FSC and PEFC, LENZING™ ECOVERO™ consumes significantly less water and energy than conventional cotton, offering a softer feel and superior draping.
Additionally, our Black Modal, developed in collaboration with Lenzing, ensures garments retain their fresh appearance even after extended use. This technology reduces energy and water consumption by 50 percent, while providing 100 percent colorfastness, preventing fading over time. With exceptional durability and deep, rich tones, Black Modal delivers both longevity and sustainability.