Mills Update: Türkiye Textile Makers Talk Tariffs and Stretch Denim’s Comeback
In a time of trade volatility, brands are shifting their sourcing strategies to guard against tariffs. Denim manufacturers are soldiering on, leaning on innovation and their internal capabilities to drive business while also keeping a watchful eye on the situation.
Ahead of Kingpins Show Amsterdam in April, Carved in Blue is catching up with denim mills to discuss the sourcing landscape, their latest launches and where denim trends are headed for Fall/Winter 2026. Here, executives from Bossa, Calik, Maritaş, Orta and Tüsa talk about what extent of impact the tariffs will have for their businesses and describe their latest collection concepts.
BOSSA
V. Besim Özek, strategy and business development director
Carved in Blue: Tariffs are top of mind right now for the industry. How are trade policies impacting your business—particularly in the U.S.?
Besim: Personally, I do not believe that tariffs, antidumping taxes, additional taxes are long run supporting solutions the local industries for the countries.
All kinds of protection methods could be beneficial for the industry for a certain term.
Unfortunately, if the countries do not invest for new technologies, upgrade their industries, long-term they suffer.
This is just like supporting a spoiled child forever.
For the textile industry, USA trade tariffs are aimed mainly at the goods from Far East.
Türkiye might have some advantage. The Turkish denim industry is the unique country where we have all the value chain partners available starting from the cotton seed production, cotton, spinning, dyeing, garment production, brands, chemical production factories, accessories. Flexible production is another advantage as well. Therefore, I believe that tariffs will not affect our industry a lot.
Carved in Blue: What do you expect consumers will be looking for in Fall/Winter 2026? How are you developing denim to meet their expected wants?
Besim: At the April show, we’re bringing together nostalgia and innovation, rich materiality and forward-thinking design—blending vintage-inspired textures, luxurious comfort and bold, digitally-driven aesthetics to reimagine the future of denim. This season also sees the debut of our bright red cast indigo, a fresh take on authentic bull denim, and a series of chalk-printed novelty fabrics, all designed to push boundaries and spark new conversations around denim craftsmanship and creativity.
Carved in Blue: What collections are you debuting at Kingpins Amsterdam this April? Do any of your textiles incorporate TENCEL™ Lyocell and/or Modal?
Besim: We will be presenting our AW 26-27 collection. We will have three concepts. One concept takes a conceptual approach, exploring the intersection of structure and materiality by blending rawness with refined form. This concept features a luxurious mix of TENCEL™ Modal and Lyocell for a soft and drapey touch, some combined with brushing that provide warmth and comfort—perfect for the autumn season.
CALIK
Mehmet Serdar Ozcan, sales, marketing and product development director
Carved in Blue: Tariffs are top of mind right now for the industry. How are trade policies impacting your business—particularly in the U.S.?
Mehmet: First of all, we absolutely do not find it right to implement practices that will negatively affect global trade and that can actually be described as a tax or trade war. Because every aggressive decision taken and the use of taxes as a weapon in this way brings with it a retaliatory action from the other side, and these actions taken in politics have a very negative effect on producers and therefore the country’s economy in the long run.
If we evaluate the current situation in terms of Türkiye, it could create an opportunity for sure. Although Mexico, Canada, China and the EU seem to be involved in this policy implemented by the U.S., a tax could be imposed on Türkiye as well the next day, and in that case, things would change completely.
Carved in Blue: What do you expect consumers will be looking for in Fall/Winter 2026? How are you developing denim to meet their expected wants?
Mehmet: If we focus on the trends of the upcoming season, we will often see the authentic vintage look of the 1950s and ‘60s. You can imagine these as more irregular, slubbed looks. At the same time, the LHT and canvas textured looks of the ‘50s will also be at the forefront.
On the other hand, in terms of comfort and feel, again in the rush of daily life, softer touches and rigid/comfort-oriented products will be preferred as the only needs sought. Although it is not our main focus right now, we see that super stretch, power stretch and skinny will be trends again in the near future, and we have included these products in our new collection.
When we consider the future of our planet, sustainability is the most fundamental concept for us as Calik Denim. Our entire business model is completely based on this vision. Of course, this is also reflected in the products in our collection and we continue to offer many fibers and sustainable technologies to the industry in the new season. In addition to fibers such as linen and hemp, our waterless dye and finish technologies and our groundbreaking technology in biodegradable denim will continue to make a huge splash in the industry.
As a reflection of all these, we have shaped our brand new collection that will be launched this April, and while we are redesigning our long-standing concepts Denovated, Fix-Fit, Rawtech and Maxymove, which have gained an important place in the industry, we are ready to bring a fresh breath with our Roots Age, Leisure Luxe and Worktive concepts.
Carved in Blue: What collections are you debuting at Kingpins Amsterdam this April? Do any of your textiles incorporate TENCEL™ Lyocell and/or Modal?
Mehmet: We’ll be launching our AW 26/27 Collection at the Kingpins Show Amsterdam with Denovated, Fix-Fit, Rawtech, Maxymove, Roots Age, Leisure Luxe and Worktive concepts.
We have been working closely with Lenzing for many years.
With the Leisure Luxe concept in our new collection, we use Lenzing’s TENCEL™ Lyocell, TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology and TENCEL™ Modal Black fibers. And in our previous collection, we use LENZING™ ECOVERO™ with REFIBRA™ in the RE/J concept, and we continue to use it.
KIPAS
Halit Gumuser, managing director and board member
Carved in Blue: Tariffs are top of mind right now for the industry. How are trade policies impacting your business—particularly in the U.S.?
Halit: Tariffs and trade policies are indeed critical topics currently affecting the textile industry. We have observed significant shifts in sourcing strategies among U.S. brands in recent years, particularly concerning raw materials.
The global ban on certain cotton sources from the Far East has prompted many U.S. brands to look towards alternative regions for their supply chains, with the Mediterranean emerging as a key area of interest. Since we specialize in fabric production, understanding the garment production locations for these brands is vital for aligning our offerings.
Given the recent adjustments in tariff rates for imports from Mexico and China, U.S. brands are increasingly shifting to countries with free trade agreements with the U.S., such as Mauritius and Egypt. While Mauritius presents logistical challenges due to its distance from Turkey, Egypt represents a significant opportunity. Our longstanding business relationships in Egypt position us well to expand our footprint there in light of these new regulations.
However, we must also anticipate the potential downside of these shifts. Increased sourcing costs may contribute to inflation in the U.S. market, ultimately affecting consumer prices. A weaker dollar could further complicate our exports to the U.S., making our products less competitive in a crucial market.
To navigate these challenges effectively, we remain committed to enhancing our competitiveness through exceptional quality, compliance with sustainability standards and agile responses to market demands. Strengthening our partnerships with U.S. brands and staying informed about evolving trade policies will be essential in seizing the opportunities presented by these changes.
Carved in Blue: What do you expect consumers will be looking for in Fall/Winter 2026? How are you developing denim to meet their expected wants?
Halit: As Kipas Denim looks toward Fall/Winter 2026, we anticipate that consumers will prioritize eco-conscious innovations that seamlessly blend style with functionality.
There is a strong and growing demand for eco-conscious materials and production methods, and consumers will be seeking ethically produced denim, including regenerative cotton, recycled fibers and next-generation materials that prioritize environmental responsibility. To meet these expectations, we are developing advanced smart fabrics that not only enhance our denim models but also incorporate fibers that meet both performance and environmental standards. This includes using materials made from pre- and post-consumer textile waste, recycled materials, innovative bio-based textiles and next-generation alternatives.
In addition to sustainability, our designs will focus on unique structures and textures that embody a raw, authentic aesthetic, adding depth and character to our denim offerings. This approach will help us meet the evolving demands of our customers while staying at the forefront of the denim industry.
Specific color trends, including shades with green casts and off-casts, will also be important, as they are becoming more popular among fashion-conscious shoppers.
We are also offering smart fabrics that will support the evolution of model variations in line with current trends.
Carved in Blue: What collections are you debuting at Kingpins Amsterdam this April? Do any of your textiles incorporate TENCEL™ Lyocell and/or Modal?
Halit: In our upcoming collections debuting at Kingpins Amsterdam this April, we are excited to showcase innovative textiles that incorporate a variety of fibers, including TENCEL™ Lyocell and Modal. By utilizing these advanced materials, we are harnessing their additional benefits to enhance our fabrics, creating a fresh perspective on fashion heritage.
Heritage remains a significant influence in our designs; however, we are shifting towards a new approach that embraces alternative styles, seamlessly blending raw aesthetics with tailored denim looks. This evolution allows us to present a sophisticated yet contemporary take on classic denim, appealing to modern consumers.
Moreover, our focus on comfort and functionality continues with our “soft and smart” initiatives, where LENZING fibers play an essential role. These fibers not only contribute to the overall sustainability of our collections but also align with our commitment to producing high-quality, versatile denim that meets the needs of today’s fashion-savvy consumers. We look forward to sharing these exciting developments at the event!
MARITAŞ
Fatih Kesim, general manager
Carved in Blue: Tariffs are top of mind right now for the industry. How are trade policies impacting your business—particularly in the U.S.?
Fatih: Tariffs and trade policies play a crucial role in shaping costs and competition in the global textile and fashion industry. Trump’s politicized approach to trade and tariffs has accelerated protectionism and fragmentation in the global trading system. Till now China, Canada and Mexico are affected by additional tariffs.
Türkiye’s trade with the United States is relatively balanced and small compared to Canada, China, the EU and Mexico, although the United States has consistently been Turkey’s second largest individual export market. Türkiye has experienced its share of tariff hikes during Trump’s first term, so the second term is also unpredicted.
We need to understand the impacts of imposed tariffs on U.S. economy.
Consumers and businesses will be the hardest hit. Companies big and small will face higher costs on the goods they buy from other countries—and could have little recourse but to hike prices themselves. For consumers, that will likely mean more expensive price tags on everything. As experts say, stagflation risk is on the table.
We’ll remain agile, review and adapt our strategies to upcoming changes. But I’d say we’d already positioned ourselves by our certified sustainable projects and eco-friendly manufacturing solutions since the first day of our presence in the U.S. We’re away from mass-market competition serving on advanced and sustainable product lines.
Carved in Blue: What do you expect consumers will be looking for in Fall/Winter 2026? How are you developing denim to meet their expected wants?
Fatih: The Gen Z and millennial generations are the primary consumers in the denim sector, showing the highest consumption habits. These groups are particularly focused on creating their own style and reflecting their identity in fashion. They are also conscious consumers who are sensitive to environmental impacts and more socially engaged. These generations question the ethical origins of materials and production processes and prefer eco-friendly brands. Sustainability will remain a top demand, driving brands to use environmentally friendly raw materials.
At Maritaş, we have demonstrated our commitment to sustainability with our regenerative cotton project, and in our latest collections, we have elevated denim products by using sustainable raw materials and premium fibers. Additionally, our versatile products with comfort and stretch features cater to consumer expectations by prioritizing comfort. Our collections also feature designs that highlight the authentic denim character and construction details, blending the classic features of denim with modern interpretations.
For Fall/Winter 2026, consumer preferences in the denim sector will focus on key factors such as versatility, sustainability, innovation and comfort.
Carved in Blue: What collections are you debuting at Kingpins Amsterdam this April? Do any of your textiles incorporate TENCEL™ Lyocell and/or Modal?
Fatih: This April at Kingpins Amsterdam, we will introduce a special denim collection enhanced with premium and sustainable fibers. As we lead special projects with prestigious brands on regenerative and organic products at 2023-24 seasons, it will expand in 2025. Our collection also focused on valuable fibers such as TENCEL™ Lyocell and Modal, cashmere and linen; this collection highlights elegance, sophistication and superior comfort. By blending these fibers with cotton, we combine balance and natural softness.
This season we launch MBS Technology, which is a new bi-stretch technology, elevating performance and flexibility to the next level.
Alongside this exclusive product range, we have further advanced our Neo Vintage and Spin Off concepts—both of which shape denim trends—by incorporating innovative textures, unique surface effects and modern color hues. Our new overdye color and cast tones offer strong alternatives, making them some of the boldest denim choices of the season.
ORTA
Oktay Okuroğlu, sales and marketing director
Carved in Blue: Tariffs are top of mind right now for the industry. How are trade policies impacting your business—particularly in the U.S.?
Oktay: We of course monitor the updates/news on the topic closely. There are many uncertainties at the moment on these tariffs, especially about if they are going to be long-term application or short-term actions. We will not be affected by the tariffs directly. However, we will continue to support our brand partners who would be affected by these changes directly and act on things that we can control. Since we operate on well-established strategies, we will take our time and move forward with cautious and firm actions.
Carved in Blue: What do you expect consumers will be looking for in Fall/Winter 2026? How are you developing denim to meet their expected wants?
Oktay: New colors and shades are always popular, so we have new shades inspired by the earthy tones that we will introduce at the upcoming collection launch at Kingpins Amsterdam. Relaxed fits like bootcut, flares and wide legs are really in trend, and this creates a need of comfort in fabric design, which we engineer fabrics accordingly. Stretches have been showing a slow emergence, but we anticipate that they are coming. So that is why we also have stretch and superstretch fabrics in the new collections to meet the current and upcoming demands. In any way we design the fabric, longevity is still key. So, in every new shade, fiber, construction, etc., we always aim for the longevity and good quality product.
Carved in Blue: What collections are you debuting at Kingpins Amsterdam this April? Do any of your textiles incorporate TENCEL™ Lyocell and/or Modal?
Oktay: We will showcase our new AW 26/27 collection at the upcoming Kingpins Amsterdam Show. The new collection is inspired by the Britcore fashion and is influenced by both the nobility of British fashion and the iconic styles of different eras of British history. We have fabrics engineered with TENCEL™ Lyocell and LENZING™ ECOVERO™ viscose to elevate fabrics with added softness, shine, drape and luxe.
TÜSA
Vedat Kalay, sales and marketing director
Carved in Blue: Tariffs are top of mind right now for the industry. How are trade policies impacting your business—particularly in the U.S.?
Vedat: We are actively adapting our production strategies and fiber sourcing to navigate evolving regulations efficiently. By closely monitoring tariff structures, customs policies and international trade shifts on a daily basis, we ensure that our supply chain remains cost-effective and disruption-free.
At the same time, our collections are designed with agility and versatility in mind. We are available to serve similar fabrics with required fiber percentages, both for virgin and recycled fibers. We leverage our diverse range of fabric compositions and manufacturing capabilities to quickly adjust to market changes. This adaptability allows us to seamlessly respond to shifting trade dynamics, ensuring that our products remain competitive without compromising on innovation, quality or sustainability.
By proactively optimizing our fiber blends and production inputs, we attempt to lessen the effects of fluctuating tariffs and continue to provide robust, dynamic selection collections that meet global demands.
Carved in Blue: What do you expect consumers will be looking for in Fall/Winter 2026? How are you developing denim to meet their expected wants?
Vedat: As we step into AW 26, fashion takes a decisive turn towards comfort, nostalgia and dynamic contrasts. Consumers are seeking softer, more tactile experiences in their wardrobes while balancing understated luxury with bold statements.
Ease and simplicity are becoming the new luxury, as consumers prioritize cozy layers, effortless styling, and ultra-soft textures. This shift celebrates a “laziness is in” mentality, where fashion is designed to embrace relaxation without sacrificing style. Fabrics such as brushed, velvet, corduroy and sateen take center stage, offering warmth and a rich tactile experience. Even denim, long associated with ruggedness, is undergoing a transformation—rigid and vintage-inspired styles are now incorporating TENCEL™ Lyocell and/or Modal blends for a smoother, more flexible hand feel without losing their authentic appeal.
In terms of sustainability, consumers will continue to demand more than just recycled cotton and organic fibers. In addition to durability and high performance, washing flexibility and enabling color variety with the same product-with fewer postprocesses at the laundry-are the following demands of brands to minimize their environmental impact while delivering high-performance products.
At the same time, denim will become more technologically advanced, offering smart features designed for comfort and performance. Fit personalization will also be a key focus, with adaptive stretch materials ensuring that denim not only fits better but also lasts longer. Stretch denim is making a major comeback, but this time with high-performance weaves that enhance flexibility without compromising durability. Hybrid functionality is also on the rise, with thermal-regulating and ultra-durable fabrics catering to modern, on-the-go lifestyles. Additionally, ergonomic denim designs, featuring tailored yet flexible silhouettes, are reshaping everyday wear, ensuring that denim remains a 24/7 essential for work, travel and leisure.
According to these consumer expectations, we weave our denim for all about balance—between nostalgia and innovation, quiet elegance and bold expression, comfort and performance. As consumers navigate an ever-evolving world, their wardrobes will reflect a desire for authenticity, versatility and conscious craftsmanship. Our denim, as a foundational staple, will continue to reinvent itself, proving once again that it is ready 24/7 to be transformed for different looks and occasions, catering to an audience that values fluidity, adaptability and inclusivity.
Carved in Blue: What collections are you debuting at Kingpins Amsterdam this April? Do any of your textiles incorporate TENCEL™ Lyocell and/or Modal?
Vedat: We are excited to debut our Balance collection at Kingpins Amsterdam this April, a lineup that seamlessly blends softness, hybrid functionality and multiplicity while aligning with key industry trends. Given the growing demand for luxurious textures and comfort, we have incorporated TENCEL™ Lyocell and Modal fibers across several of our concepts to enhance soft hand feel, plus both authentic and luxury looks.
One of our concepts is all about softness—across both rigid and high stretch fabrics, even in vintage-inspired denim, we prioritize a gentle touch and supreme comfort. Our TENCEL™ Lyocell blends reach up to 45 percent, complemented by organic cotton and recycled cotton for an added eco-conscious dimension. We also ensure softness with 100 percent TENCEL™ Lyocell fabrics this season under a new, holistic identity.
We also focus on thermal regulation for winter, incorporating brushed-back and flock-finished fabrics to provide extra warmth while maintaining softness. These textiles are designed for everyday wear as well as outdoor adventures, offering comfort and functionality for modern lifestyles.
Next, we introduce our comprehensive vintage denim story, which aligns with global trends favoring soft-handed, worn-in aesthetics. Whether featuring clean twill lines or slubby textures, our fabrics maintain a balanced approach to authenticity and comfort. A standout feature is our colorful overdyed magic-finished fabrics, combining indigo and earthy tones to create visually striking, low-impact denim. Our innovative finishing processes aim to streamline laundry treatments, making them more effortless and enjoyable.
With stretch denim making a subtle yet significant comeback, we are also ready to answer this demand with high-performance stretch fabrics that are both soft and durable. These fabrics bring authenticity and flexibility to the forefront, with select pieces in colored denim to offer variety beyond traditional indigo palettes.
Finally, we continue to build on one of our strongest narratives: mix-weave denim with 24/7 comfort and flexibility. This collection is designed for versatile dressing, seamlessly transitioning from work to leisure and supporting a modern, on-the-go lifestyle.
Each of these concepts contributes to a cohesive vision for AW26, where softness, comfort and functionality work in harmony. We look forward to showcasing Tüsa, Balance at Kingpins Amsterdam and sharing our latest innovations. We are also excited to present our second partnership with Endrime, with the unique assortment of our denim and non-denim qualities under our Heritage Threads concept.